World Complete

Skopje… the forgotten city of ex-Yugoslavia

Skopje

North Macedonia (formally known as Macedonia (FYROM) until February 2019) is probably – alongside its smaller neighbour Kosovo – the least visited of the seven nations that made up Yugoslavia.

Yet while its more prestigious ex-partners take up much of the spotlight, there is a great deal of enjoyment a visitor can have from taking in the sights of this landlocked new Balkan country; having only gained its independence in 1991.

The first thing to note about this relatively untouched European destination is that, as tourists have yet to discover its charms, it remains pretty cheap to travel here. It was for that very reason that I wanted to go and see what the city of Skopje had to offer.

The Warrior on a Horse statue in Macedonia Square near the Stone Bridge is synonymous with the city

So what should a first time traveller to North Macedonia know before heading there? Well one thing to know for sure is the currency. In North Macedonia the local currency is the Macedonian Denar. This is what is known as a closed currency and, therefore, you are unable to purchase it in the UK before you head to the region. However, once you are there you’ll be able to get some easily from ATMs or a Bureau de Change. Failing that, credit cards are widely accepted. For reference £1 gets you around 60 – 70 Macedonian Denar.

The next thing to recognise is the climate. The weather – like the UK – can change and vary month-on-month. I travelled to Skopje at the end of June / start of July so the average temperatures ranged from 29°c to around 31°c. So be prepared for it to feel quite warm. If you travel in the winter then the temperatures can drop to averages of around 5°c to as low as -4°c.

The city itself is full of interesting history and a lot of it is pretty recent. The fall of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s has left its mark on the city and its people. Many of whom have since seen some of their former countrymen in the other states prosper more (Croatia and Slovenia for example) due to greater tourist numbers and good trade deals. North Macedonia, it is safe to say, remains somewhat behind on both these fronts. But it is improving.

Yet despite modest tourist numbers, the city itself is pretty busy. Skopje is the largest city in North Macedonia and is its capital. However, by European standards, it’s classed as a medium-sized city. Saying that, it is home to some half a million people; many of whom are of Albanian and Kosovan heritage – both of which share borders with the country alongside Greece and Bulgaria.

There is plenty to see and do in Skopje and most of it can be done over a long weekend. Many of the city’s landmarks – such as the Warrior on a Horse statue – have received welcome investment in recent years. Back in 2014, the Skopje 2014 project, financed by the Macedonian government of the then-ruling party, restored and renewed much of the city’s architecture in the hope of making the city the next must-see place for tourists. Time will tell if it is working.

Getting there

Flights to Skopje are yet to become common place but you can fly directly from London to the North Macedonian capital. For my trip I flew with the Hungarian flight operator Wizz Air from London Luton.

Due to there being a real lack of options to fly to Skopje from the UK (when I check while writing this piece there was currently only the London Luton to Skopje direct route with Wizz Air available) you are rather at the mercy of the flight company in terms of the prices they want to charge. To give you an idea, however, for two people flying out of the UK at the end of June and returning a few days into July, a roundtrip cost me £249.96.

I will say however, that if I got the choice I would not fly with Wizz Air. Our flight was delayed leaving London Luton due to a fault on the plane with all passengers and their luggage already on board. Now I have no problem with the flight not leaving on time if there is a safety issue. That’s totally understandable. However, the staff failed to provide any information to the passengers and used a loophole in aviation law to ensure they did not have to meet their statutory requirements of food and drink for flights delayed over a certain length of time. That’s my moan over.

Once we were in the air the flight – although basic – was straightforward and took about three hours. Skopje International Airport is not much better than the flight itself either, although there has been some redevelopment of the passenger area since the mid 2000s. Each year on average (according to 2019 figures anway) around 2.4m passengers travel to Skopje International Airport.

The flag of North Macedonia will be visable all over Skopje

Once you’ve arrived in Skopje you’ll discover you are around 25km outside the centre of the city. There are a couple of options here. The first of these being to jump in a taxi parked in the official taxi rank (there are lots of unofficial taxis hanging around but will charge you a small fortune once they have you inside). The other option, and the one we did, was to book an airport transfer. For this we used P-Airbus.com.

This service proved to be very easy to book and picked us up directly at the airport and also dropped us back when we left. They were on time and very efficient. There are a couple of options you can book. The first is a low cost bus that costs just seven Euros per passenger for a return trip. This option means you’ll be dropped and picked up at Skopje Central Station.

The second option is slightly more expensive – but the one we opted for given that we had no previous knowledge of the layout of the city itself. This was a private car pick up. This option costs a total of 40 Euros for two people to make a return journey and takes you straight to your accommodation’s front door – which is really handy if you’re not staying in a hotel.

Where to stay

There are plenty of places to stay in Skopje. The city centre itself is home to numerous hotels and apartments. Through various investigations I did before heading to North Macedonia, I saw that there were lots of good quality hotels for very reasonable prices. Yet I didn’t feel that these hotels would give me that special local feel of what I wanted when visiting this ex-Yugoslav city.

During my stay in Skopje, therefore, I opted for the use of a wonderful AirBnB located near the centre of the city. This delightful little dwelling was located on one of the upper floors of an apartment block just off one of the main streets of the city. When we were dropped by our airport transfer at the apartment block, the host of AirBnB met us outside and gave us a a short tour of the place we would call home for four nights, as well as giving us some tips of good places to eat and drink nearby.

The one thing that made us choose an AirBnB over a hotel was that you got a whole host of interesting amenities within the apartment, as well as fantastic views from the balcony of the mountains and the Millennium Cross on the hill which is one of the famous attractions of this city.

The main living space is well designed and has a good layout

The bedroom was very comfortable and well stocked for plug points to charge your devices

The fetching tree design is situated in the main living area

Inside the apartment we found a spacious living area, a clean and functional kitchen area, a pleasant bathroom and a good sized bedroom for us to stay in. I personally have fond memories of laying back on the sofa during our stay, watching England knock Columbia out of the 2018 World Cup in Russia on penalties, trying not to make too much noise each time the ball hit the back of the net as my ex-wife slept in the bedroom next door.

Away from the football, and as previously mentioned, just outside the living area there was also a sizeable balcony where you could relax in the summer heat and enjoy the free-swinging chair while sampling a local drink and looking at the view.

The rooftop views of the low-lying Skopje gives great views of the Vodno Mountains that house the Millennium Cross

The city itself houses around 545,000 people; many of whom live in appartments like these

The apartment itself was located just off one of the main boulevards that’s known as Blvd. Partizanski Odredi. It was based on a quiet backstreet called Vladimir Polezhanovsi Road. From this central location you are no more than a 15 minute walk to some of the main sites within Skopje – including the Stone Bridge.

Getting around

There are three main methods of transport most travellers to Skopje will need to use to get around this city and the surrounding areas. The first is walking.

Skopje is quite compact so it is very easy to take a relaxed walk around the city to see some of its main sites such as the Stone Bridge, Skopje Fortress and the Warrior on the Horse statue in Macedonia Square. You can also take a nice walk along the Vardar River which takes you past a number of these sites.

The second main way to travel within Skopje is using the bus. I’ll be honest this bus system was perhaps one of the most confusing I’ve come across while travelling. The main bus station here is Transporten Centar (Транспортен центар) and it’s locoated adjacent to Boulevard Kuzman Josifovski Pitu near a large shopping mall.

First thing to note at this station is that if you are travelling within the country /Skopje you’ll need to use the outside portion of the bus station. I believe, the part of the bus station that is inside takes you further afield and into the neighbouring countries. The second thing to note here is that, from my experience, ignore all information that says to buy a bus ticket at the station itself. This is total rubbish. We spent a great deal of time aimlessly walking from building to building, just to be eventually told to buy our fare once we were onboard the bus. Sometimes they don’t even charge you for a journey but it’s always best to be ready to pay.

The bus itself cost me 150 Macedonian Denar, per person, each way. This works out at about £2.50. Really not bad at all. However, prices may vary for this but either way you won’t be spending a fortune.

The station itself is large but basic. A concrete creation with lines of bus stops spread across multiple roads. It’s not the type of place you would ideally hang out in for a long period of time, so hopefully you can coincide your stop there with a bus that’s about to depart. There are timetables for busses available at the station also but they really don’t stick to these times religiously. Be prepared for your bus to depart whenever the driver feels ready to go!

There are many routes you can take from this bus station, but there are two that take you directly to a couple of the main attractions; the Vodno Mountains with the Millennium Cross and Matka Canyon. For the first you’ll need the 25 bus and for the second you’ll want bus number 60. There are signs hanging above the various stops that show you where each numbered bus will stop. So simply wait at the appropriate one and get on when it arrives.

The final method of transport you’ll probably use is the cable car. This is a great way to get from the middle point of Vodno, where the bus drops you off, to the top of the mountain near the Millennium Cross.

You get stunning views on the way up to the Millennium Cross via the cable car

The modern cable cars afford a comfortable ride up Vodno Mountain

Part of the way up Vodno Mountain from a cable car

Looking back at Skopje from the cable car as it ascends Vodno Mountain

Cable car tickets can only be purchased from the cable car station at a cost of 100 Macedonian Denar (£1.50) per person. Tickets are purchased from the ticket booth just before entering the cable car. The short journey up the mountain gives you stunning views of the surrounding area made up of woods and forests up the side of the mountain, the city of Skopje and the Millennium Cross.

Top sites

The first stop on mine, and indeed any tourist visiting Skopje, was to Macedonia Square, the Warrior on a Horse statue and the Stone Bridge (all of which are free to view).

Macedonia Square is the main square in Skopje. This square remains significant to North Macedonia because it is where the country’s independence from Yugoslavia was announced.

In the centre of this square is the rather impressive Warrior on a Horse statue that towers over the surrounding area which is now made up of restaurants and hotels.

This statue was erected in 2011 and – much to the annoyance of the Greeks – had an uncanny likeness to Alexander the Great. To avoid any policital issues, rather than call it Alexander the Great statue, they settled for the much more descriptive – if less punchy – name of the Warrior on a Horse statue. Sitting around eight stories high – at about 22m – it dwarfs its surroundings.

The Stone Bridge may not be tall – nor long – but is still an impressive structure

The Warrior on a Horse statue is the focal point of Macedonia Square

You can get down right next to the river and look up at the Stone Bridge

Once you have seen the square and the statue you’ll then be able to turn around and walk across Skopje’s most famous bridge; the Stone Bridge.

Built on old Roman foundations back in the 1400s, this bridge transports visitors across the Vardar River. Made entirely from Stone – as its name would suggest – this bridge could’ve been destroyed in the Second World War, when Nazis placed explosives on it 1944, only for the Germans to give up at the last minute.

While it may not appear to be a very big bridge, its architecture is impressive and its place in Macedonian history is unquestionable.

Another unquestionable relic from North Macedonian history is Skopje Fortress. A short 15 minute walk north-west from the Stone Bridge will lead you up a hill and to the entrance of this fortress ruin.

Dating back to the 6th Century, Skopje Fortress was used primarily to defend the region from attack. While it is no longer in its former glory there is still plenty of the original walls and interiors of the fortress to make a visit more than worthwhile. And if you need any further encouragement to go; its totally free to enter!

You can walk parts of the walls of this fortress ruin

Views up of Skopje Fortress from the side of the road during your approach will look like this

There are still some impressive statues on display within the interior of the Fortress walls

Once inside this fortress you’ll notice that there are ample paths and trails to walk around within its walls. Much of the interior has been destroyed over the centuries, but there is still plenty of examples of ancient brickwork to witness.

The best piece of advice I can offer for a visit to Skopje Fortress is to take a walk – for as far as you can anyway – along its walls and get the wonderful views it offers of Skopje, Mount Vodno and the surrounding area.

It’s impossible to go to Skopje and miss The Millennium Cross and Mount Vodno. Even if, for some reason, you chose not to go up the mountain itself, it is almost always present given its height – day and night.

The Millennium Cross, it has to be said, is extremely ugly up close. It is a huge metal cross – one of the largest in the world – that stands at 66m tall and is around 15km outside of Skopje. At night it is lit up so it remains visible.

The distance is not too far to travel and, given that you can catch a bus to the base of the cable car, there isn’t even much walking involved. It means that this site is accessible to almost everyone.

The Millennium Cross itself was built in 2000 to serve as a memorial of 2,000 years of Christianity in Macedonia. I think it would be fair to say that they have made their point!

Not the most attractice structure in itself, but the views from the top of Mount Vodno make it worthwhile

At night the Millennium Cross is lit up and visable from the city

The views from Mount Vodno are stunning and worth the journey alone

When you arrive at the top of Mount Vodno you find yourself in a beautiful park, surrounded by greenery. I’d suggest you take a few minutes to look around the Millennium Cross (you can’t climb it so it is just to be observed) and then head away from it to try and grab a seat near one of the stunning vistas overlooking the mountains. This is also a great place to grab a spot of lunch (either at the cafe near the cable car station or by bringing your own).

The one downside of the area is that, sadly, humans cannot be trusted to keep it looking green and there are many piles of rubbish laying around that spoil what is otherwise an idyllic setting. Please people throw your rubbish away in one of the bins – there are plenty provided!

Like the Millennium Cross, Lake Matka (within Matka Canyon) is a bus ride outside of Skopje. This may be a little further afield than the mountains – but trust me when I say it’s worth it. Also – as per everything else I’ve mentioned – there is no entrance fee to the canyon.

This man-made canyon spans around 5,000 hectares of land and is a perfect place for hiking and water sports. Many locals go swimming in the waters here but I’d advocate the hire of kayaks.

When I was there, we hired a single, two-person kayak from Almata Prima Kayak Rental and Boat Tours. You rent the kayak by the hour and prices vary depending on how long you want it for. I believe the cost of the double kayak was 500 Macedonia Denar for 60 minutes – or around £7.50.

Renting the kayak allows you to get out on the water and see the scenery at your own pace. A couple of hours should allow you to row your way up a good chunk of the canyon and back again. Do remember though that this is a kayak and you are on the water. You will get wet from the oar going in and out of the water and you do stand a chance (albeit a small one) of falling into the lake – which is quite deep!

Once back on dry land another option is to use the same company to take a boat tour down to Vrelo cave – where you’ll see a number of species of bats and numerous stalactites. This relaxed boat tour is a perfect way of laying back and taking in the views. It is also the only way you can access the cave as you’re not allowed to dock a kayak here and there is no way to walk to it. The boat ride costs around 400 Macedonia Denar each – or about £6.

Make sure you take the boat ride down the lake to visit the cave at the end

On a hot sunny day Lake Matka is a beautiful place to be

For those willing to take a hike, you can walk the length of the lake on the mountain footpaths that also go into the woods

One of the best ways to see Lake Matka is to hire a kayak

This is the entrance to the cave at the end of the boat ride. This cave is home to a number of bats

The wooded area of the mountainside walk is teaming with hanging caterpillars in the summer

Aside from viewing the sights from the water, you can also take a hike along the sides of the valley. Be warned, this is not a short walk and you will need to be physically quite fit to make it all the way to the end. Also, be aware that the end is rather underwhelming and is just a path that comes to an abrupt halt where there is no longer room for people to get by. If it’s a hot day make sure you take bottles of water with you as you’ll need it, and there is nowhere to refill – or buy new ones – once you’ve started the trek.

As mentioned, the hike is extremely long. I’m not sure of the exact length but know that it took the two of us a good three to four hours to get all the way to the end and back again.

Once you’re on the walk – and if it is the summer – you’ll notice in the wooded area that many of the trees have small caterpillars hanging down from them. And when I say many, I really mean it. There were thousands of them and we spent most of the time picking them off our clothing and from our hair. However, don’t let that put you off as a hike along this path is both physically rewarding and visually stunning.

Where to avoid

Like any city you always need to be aware of your surroundings. Yet at no point during my time in Skopje did I feel in danger. The people may not have been throwing themselves at you to be friendly, however they were always very polite and helpful when I needed them. It is still probably best to not carry too many expensive items on you – especially at night – as its not the richest of cities in Europe so you may be more unlucky than me and come across an oppitunistic thief.

The Divers sculpure near the Stone Bridge is nothing to write home about

In terms of sites that you can give a miss to, I’d only say that there are a great number of churches in the city and unless you have a real love for them they can become somewhat monotonous.

Also there is the sculpture of the Divers which is located just at the foot of the stone bridge. You may, therefore, not miss this one as it’s right there but it is really nothing special and something that you can probably do without.

Great places to eat

If honest, Skopje is not famous for its food. Saying that however, it does not mean you will go hungry or unfulfilled.

There are two places during my stay in North Macedonia that really stuck out to me. The first is a restaurant called Pelister which is situated right in the centre of Macedonia Square and is part of a larger hotel. The restaurant decribes itself as a place where people of different ages and professions come not only to have a lunch, but also to meet, have meetings or just a conversation.

Some travellers may be put off by its central location. I myself had this fear, thinking that it could just be a tourist trap like you sometimes get in other cities around the world, however, my fears were unfounded. This delightful restaurant does a good range of food that is well-presented with a local theme. Starters range from chicken liver salad to trout meatballs while main meals can be pizzas and pastas or meat themed dishes. There is also a wide variety of salads on offer as well for those with less of an appetite. Best of all the prices are extremely reasonable and a good meal for two is unlikely to cost you more than £20 to £30.

Make sure you opt for the outside seating on a nice day as you’ll get some amazing people watching opportunities in this busy sub-section of Skopje life.

The second place worth going to is actually outside of Skopje but accessible during a trip to Matka Canyon. This restaurant is simply called Restaurant Canyon Matka.

The restaurant is also part of the Canyon Matka hotel which was founded back in 1939. This restaurant affords beautiful views of the stunning scenery at the start of Lake Matka and allows you to soak these in while sipping a nice glass of wine – or as I did a pint or two of the local beer; Skopsko. When in North Macedonia you must try this beer. I loved it!

The food here is also very well thought out and a menu of light snacks and more filling mains is on offer to guests. As it was so hot when I was there, I chose one of their lighter salads and tucked into it while starting out across the water and soaking in my North Macedonian experience.

Useful links

The appartment described above on AirBnB

Skopje buses

Millennium Cross Cable Car

Skopje Tourist Board

Almata Prima Kayak Rental and Boat Tours

Pelister

Restaurant Canyon Matka

Skopsko

Stockholm… a smorgasbord of fun

Stockholm

First thing to say is that I really love to travel to Scandinavia. Previously I’ve visited all of the other main Scandinavian capital cities (Oslo, Reykjavik, Copenhagen and Helsinki) so I really wanted to see what Stockholm had to offer. The answer is plenty!

The city of Stockholm itself has a long and complicated history. The first evidence of the term Stockholm dates all the way back to 1252 but, as you’d expect, the area has seen a great deal of upheaval, turmoil and investment since those 13th Century days.

Today’s Stockholm is a world away from those early days. It is a clean, multi-cultural city with an abundance of things to see and do. Situated across 14 separate islands, the city has an affinity with the water. It feels like almost everywhere you go you are not too far from the next waterway or river. At the heart of Stockholm is the popular tourist destination of Gamla Stan which, as you can see below, is made famous by its multi-coloured buildings and attractive streets.

86731519_721671365451_8245626369757675520_o — The colourful buildings in Gamla Stan are an iconic image of the city

There are a few things any first time traveller should know about Stockholm – and perhaps Sweden in general – before going.

Firstly, the locals almost always speak perfect English. That’s not to say you shouldn’t try to have a stab at a bit of the local language, but don’t fear; you will be understood everywhere you go.

The second thing which took my girlfriend and I by surprise slightly was that Sweden has mostly moved to being a cashless society. What does this mean in practice? Well it means that in a number of shops and restaurants, they won’t take cash for payments even if you have the exact money on you. Only credit card payments will be accepted. It’s not 100% widespread yet, but it is getting that way the more time goes on. When we travelled here, knowing the country would be expensive anyway – as many Scandinavian countries are – we took £600 worth of Swedish Krona with us; around 7,200 SEK. By the end of our three nights in Sweden we still had a rather large chunk of this money left so ended up changing it for Euros in a Bureau de Change in Gamla Stan (there are plenty to choose from).

The third thing to note is that if, like us, you travel in February to Sweden expect it to be very cold! Even if (as we had it) there is no snow or ice on the ground, the wind coming in from the water makes it a rather bitter experience whilst walking around the city’s many streets. Wrap up warm and bring gloves, scarf and hats with you. February temperatures on average range from 0.5°C to -3.9°C!

Stockholm itself, while busy, is nothing like other European cities – such as London, Paris or Rome – in terms of sheer volume of people. Home to around 975,000 residents at last count, the roads never seem too busy. In fact, as is the case in a lot of places outside of the UK, there is a greater emphasis on travelling by bicycle or tram. You stand more chance of being run down by a cyclist than you do a car!

So who would love coming to Stockholm? Well in my experience the city has a lot to offer people from all walks of life and with a wide variety of interests. Historians will get a lot from the city’s many museums. Those who enjoy the outdoors will have plenty of walking options available. People who love the water can explore this, while families will have many child-friendly activities to choose from also.

Getting there

As is more often the case than not, flying is the number one way to get to Stockholm. However, the main issue with travelling to Stockholm by air is that none of the four airports that service the city are anywhere near the capital itself!

The closest is Bromma Airport, which is actually just 10km outside of the city. Yet it doesn’t have direct flights to it from the UK. The other three do. Stockholm Arlanda sits 42km outside the city, Stockholm Vasteras is 103km away while Stockholm Skavsta is 106km away. My luck saw me come into the latter of these.

Given its relative closeness to the UK, there are an abundance of flight providers leaving all the major London airports for the variety of the Stockholm airports. For my trip, my girlfriend and I flew with Ryanair from London Stansted (even taking off despite Storm Dennis’ best efforts) landing at Stockholm Skavska.

As always with Ryanair, and indeed all budget airlines, it was a no-thrills flight. Flight time was recorded at just under two hours on the way there and around two and a quarter hours on the return journey.

Aside from how close Sweden is to the UK, the other positive for this trip is that, flight-wise, it’s not going to break the bank. For our trip, including priority tickets on Ryanair, for two people, we paid just £149.96 which proved great value.

Once you arrive in Sweden the next major issue is how do you get from the airport to the city centre. As mentioned, the airport is a long way from the city. So unless you have money to burn, a taxi or an Uber are not going to be cost effective. I’d suggest, therefore, that the best form of transport is the shuttlebus service run by Flygbussarna.

This service you can book before you leave the UK. Booking a return journey, your ticket is valid for three months from the date of sale. This means that if you buy your ticket on 1 January then it is valid until 31 March. Obviously this is for just one use each way. It’s really affordable too. For two return trips, we paid just 636 SEK – about £50.

It’s easy to locate also. The bus is parked just outside the airport arrivals door at Skavska (assume this is the case at other Stockholm airports too) and is clearly branded. The journey time from the airport is around one and a half hours so make sure you bring a good book to read with you or download some TV shows for the journey. Once in Stockholm the bus will drop all its passengers at Stockholm Centralstation.

Where to stay

During our stay in Stockholm, my girlfriend and I decided to opt for the four-star Mornington Hotel in the quiet Ostermalm district of the city centre. The hotel offers a variety of affordable rooms, ranging from normal and superior all the way up to executive-style rooms and suites. For this, and to keep it affordable (as I’ve mentioned Sweden is not a cheap country) we stuck with the normal room.

This quaint hotel has one thing in abundance. Books! From the moment you step through the revolving door you are welcomed by rows and rows of books – floor to ceiling. And this is just the reception area!

The standard room at the Mornington Hotel is extremely comfortable

Check-in is extremely easy. In fact a few days before I travelled to the city, I was able to check in online meaning that when I turned up we simply gave our name and two room keys were quickly provided.

Rooms are spread across a number of floors and while we were only on the second, I don’t believe you are really staying in the hotel for the views it affords as you are primarily surrounded by average buildings and apartment blocks.

The room we stayed in was perfectly good. A very comfortable double bed welcomed you into the living space and a powerful warming shower was just what the doctor ordered after a day of travelling around. It was also nice to see that the Mornington Hotel provides tea and coffee for guests in the room as this isn’t always the case when you travel outside of the UK.

Guests at the Mornington Hotel have a wide selection of books to choose from during their stay

As part of our deal with the hotel, breakfast was provided. Each morning there was a plentiful selection of food available ranging from cereals, cheeses and meats to boiled eggs and pancakes. Teas, coffees and a selection of fruit juices are also available to quench your morning thirst.

Check-out is also as easy as check-in. During our final night at the hotel I was emailed my final invoice and when it came time to leave we simply gave our room number, handed over the keys and asked the hotel staff to hold onto our bags until we collected them later in the day. Perfect.

Getting around

Getting around in Stockholm is relatively easy. While the city is quite large in size – and split across numerous islands – walking around it is simple and enjoyable.

The advantages of walking to your next location are that you get both the fresh air and also see the many beautiful buildings along the way that you’d otherwise miss by going underground. On the whole, the furthest my girlfriend and I had to walk between attractions was around 3km and this took about 30 to 45 minutes to do. Remember, that Stockholm, on the whole, is a pretty flat city.

However for those who may not want to walk, or for those with mobility issues, then the Stockholm Metro is a good – if expensive – option to take.

The Stockholm Metro is made up of seven lines and serviced by a modern fleet of trains. Some of the stations also – such as Radhuset Station – are spectacular in their design given the exposed bedrock making up the open caverns. If you get the chance to stop by one of these stations, then miss a train or two just to have a look around.

There are two types of tickets you can buy for the metro. The first is the adult single journey ticket, which costs 37 SEK (or about £3), and gives the user 75 minutes unlimited access to the whole of the metro network. However, once your 75 minutes is up, you’d need to buy a new ticket to travel again.

The other option is to buy a Travelcard. A 24-hour adult Travelcard costs 155 SEK (around £13) and gets you unlimited travel on the metro and throughout the country for the duration of the ticket. You can also buy 72-hour tickets and seven day tickets for 310 SEK (£25) and 405 (£32) SEK respectively. This is the best option for those who plan to travel around a lot on public transport during their stays.

A final option – albeit one we didn’t use given the time of year we were in Stockholm – is via water-ferry. When the sun is out in the summer, going out onto the water may be a lot more appealing than when it is cold and wet in winter. However, for those who would be interested to look into this further more details can be found at Visit Stockholm.

Top sites

The beauty of Stockholm is that there is plenty to see and do and a lot of it can be done within a very short space of time. One of the first stops to make in Stockholm is to the central Gamla Stan region. This area is effectively the Old Town and is where you’ll see the famous multi-coloured buildings views that are synonymous with the city.

Made up of a variety of winding alleyways and quaint squares, Gamla Stan sits primarily on the island of Stadsholmen and dates back the the 13th century. While it may have lost something of the fairy-tale postcard scene thanks to the various tourist shops and Burger King-style eateries that have popped up, the essence of the city remains largely here. Make sure you visit Stortorget (or the Grand Square) for those fabulous picture opportunities in front of the colourful houses. This is also the scene of one of the bloodiest parts of Swedish history which, in part, inspired George R. R. Martin to write the Red Wedding scene in the A Song of Ice and Fire books; adapted to TV’s Game of Thrones. Read more about the Stockholm Bloodbath. Also make sure you pay the area a visit at night to check out the buildings all lit up.

Gamla Stan in all its glory at night is something quite special

The next stop in Stockholm should also be a historical one. The Vasa Museum. This museum located on the island of Djurgarden and displays the only fully intact 17th Century ship that has been salvaged; the Vasa. The history of the Vasa is equally comedic as it is tragic. Having set sail in 1628, she sunk some 1,500m after leaving port when a gust of wind filled her sails and toppled, what would have been, the pride of the Swedish fleet.

Despite being relatively close to land, some 30 people are thought to have died during the sinking; many of which were trapped within the confines of the ship itself. In fact some 15 remains have been recovered and are on show at the museum.

What’s impressive here is that the Vasa spent the best part of over 300 years underwater after she sank and fortunately, due to the conditions in the waters around Stockholm, she did not rot and was salvaged almost intact in the 1950s. Since then much restoration work has taken place and since 1990 members of the public have been able to view the Vasa in full inside this impressive museum.

The ship itself is the main draw of the museum and sits proudly in centre spot. Visitors can go from floor to floor (albeit not on-board the ship) to see the Vasa from all angles and get an impressive view on the sheer size and beauty of the design. There is plenty of information available around the museum and a trip here is well worth a few hours of anyone’s time.

Tickets for the museum are easy to buy. You can either buy them in person at the entrance of the museum or purchase them online in advance. Again similar to the bus tickets, you don’t buy the ticket for a specific day. Instead you have three months from the date of purchase to use the ticket. Tickets cost 150 SEK per person – approximately £12.

The front view of the impressive Vasa warship

Sadly this magnificent vessel only sailed 1,500m before she sank

A great way I find to see a good part of a new city is to sign up for a free walking tour. These days most cities have at least one option for such a tour and Stockholm is no except to this. Having read through a few suggestions online I came across one that looked really good; Free Walking Tour Stockholm.

This very helpful independent company operates the same way that all free walking tours operate. You meet the tour at a set location – for this one it’s outside Gamla Stan metro station – and look for the guides holding the company’s logo. They are very easy to spot. They also operate in all weather conditions so don’t worry if it’s raining, they will still be walking the tour.

When my girlfriend and I took part we were met by three guides. The first was taking a Spanish language tour around the Old Town. While I have very basic Spanish I didn’t feel I was ready for this one just yet! The other two guides were taking English language tours. The first around the new town and the second around the old town. We opted for the latter.

It’s worth noting that they host tours twice a day; at 10am and and 1pm. Both meeting at the same spot outside of Gamla Stan metro station. However, if you want to do the new town city tour, then that one ONLY leaves at 10am.

The tour itself is really informative and you get to see a large number of local sites within an hour and a half. Our guide – Alex – born and bred in Oxford, England, was a wealth of knowledge and made the time fly by despite the cold winds. He was entertaining and clearly loves the city itself. The old town tour focuses entirely within Gamla Stan but while you may have already walked the streets yourself, this tour puts context to what you were seeing.

During your walking tour you’ll hear about some of the old magnificent buildings like the Riddarholmen Church

You’ll also visit the narrowest street in Stockholm during your walking tour; Marten Trotzigs Grand

Once the tour is complete (it finishes in the famous Stortorget) visitors pay what they feel the tour is worth or what they can afford. 50% of this money goes to the guides, the remaining, we were told, goes towards promoting the company. There really is no pressure to put huge amounts of money in.

If like us, you want to relax a bit during your trip then finding a spa within Stockholm is a great way to do this. We followed our walking tour of the city with a 30 minute trek north to Centralbadet in the Norrmalm region of Stockholm.

First thing to note here is that the spa itself is a bit tricky to spot. There are few signs showing there is something there and you only really notice it when you observe the building design.

Once inside you have a variety of options at your disposal. Entrance to the Spa as part of the ‘Relax’ package (which includes use of the swimming pool, gym, saunas, steam room, thermal baths and cold pool – alongside a robe, slippers and towel) costs 410 SEK per person (around £33).

The entrance to Centralbadet is quite well hidden

The next step up from this is the ‘Revive’ package which also includes a meal in the Ecobaren restaurant. This costs 530 SEK per person (or around £43). This was the package we went with.

It’s worth noting that this is a mixed spa. That means men and women share the facility. Changing areas are kept separate however, and there is also a women’s only sauna to use. It’s also worth noting that in the sauna and steam room areas bathing costumes are not permitted, so men and women must only wear the towels provided. For those with a more prudish persona this may feel slightly odd, but believe me, you get used to it pretty quickly and no one gives this a second thought once they are in.

Make sure you experience all the difference saunas and steam rooms. These range in heat and intensity and you feel extremely relaxed inside the quiet rooms. Afterwards, take a plunge in the cold pool if you can bear it. I managed to totally submerge myself under the near freezing water for a brief second although my girlfriend didn’t quite brave it that far.

After the cold make sure you get in the Jacuzzi and warm up. This is possibly the nicest feeling within the whole spa.

Lunch at the restaurant is pleasant. You get the choice of three options – one of which is almost vegan. I went with a fish option while my girlfriend chose the vegan one. I think she made the right choice, as hers was a buffet style plate meaning she could get as much as she wanted from the off and have a dessert as well! Can’t say I was jealous at all.

Also make sure you give yourself time to spend in the complexes impressive swimming pool. This beautiful room centred around the pool has a number of beach-hut style seating areas and a couple of hammocks upstairs also. I’d imagine in prime periods this area can get extremely busy. When I was there in February however, there was plenty of room. Worth emailing the spa in advance of your planned trip to see when the best time of day would be to visit.

A second floor by the pool houses a number of comfortable hammocks to enjoy

Back in the city itself, and if like me you are after an amazing view then perhaps the best option currently is to take a bit of a walk – through Gamla Stan and out the other side – to the Katarina Elevator (or Katarina Hissen).

This elevator connects the lower Slussen area with the upper heights of Södermalm. While the elevator itself has not been operating since 2010 due to a ‘lack of security’, you can still get to the top by taking the stairs behind the construction and walking along the walkway. Don’t worry, it’s all perfectly safe and legal. The Swedish authorities appear to be doing a great deal of construction work in the area (as of early 2020) so perhaps this may bring the elevator back into action in the future.

You can enjoy some of the best views of Stockholm from the top of the Katarina Elevator

The city is surrounded by numerous waterways as seen here

The final must see is a personal love of mine. The escape room. For those not familiar with this craze, your team (usually between two and six people) have one hour to solve all the puzzles in the room and escape; completing whatever story you have taken part in. Trust me, it’s great fun.

After much research I booked us into Escape Stories. This escape room has four themed rooms at the time of writing. The Last Manuscript, The Break In, The Cover Up and The Da Vinci Quest. We went for The Last Manuscript at a cost of 750 SEK for two people (around £60).

The game hosts are enthusiastic and run you through the rules of the room as well as give you the backstory to your particular quest. Unlike some rooms I’ve previously done, Escape Stories doesn’t limit the number of clues you can ask for, nor does it penalise you for asking for them. They are concentrating on ensuring that players have the best time possible and give them the greatest opportunity to escape. How much help and assistance you want it totally down to you as a team.

I won’t give too much away – as I’m sure Escape Stories won’t thank me for giving all its secrets away here – but it’s safe to say all is not as it seems in the room so really explore hard as some clues are rather tricky to find. Just for the record, we escaped the room in 46 minutes.

Where to avoid

The beauty of Stockholm is that it’s both a very safe city and very clean. There are really no obvious areas to avoid in terms of safety; although, as in all cities, its best to keep a clear view on your belongings as pickpockets do exists. Annoying, but just be sensible.

If, like me, you travel here in the winter months, then it may be your preference to avoid water-based activities as it is likely to be rather cold. However, for those brave enough to go out onto one of the many Stockholm waterways then options and ferryboat services are available. For me though, there was little fun to be had on a boat with the freezing wind blowing.

Not so much to be avoided as the water is beautiful. It’s just really cold in winter

And while not one to avoid as such, if you do travel to Stockholm in the winter then the city’s exciting looking amusement park Grona Lund is always closed. It’s just too cold for them to open and expect people to visit. This is very much a summer excursion and should I ever be in Stockholm in the summer then I’m sure I’d pay it a visit.

Grona Lund can only be enjoyed during the city’s warmer months

The only other attraction that my girlfriend and I avoided at all costs – which may actually attract others to its doors – is the ABBA Museum. This shrine to the music of Sweden’s (arguably) biggest export allows visitors to get up close and personal with their heroes and even become part of the band in a holographic experience. For me however, this sounded like my idea of hell. Needless to say we avoided it.

Great places to eat

First thing to note about Stockholm – as is the case in most of Scandinavia – is that both food, and especially alcohol (a pint of beer can cost around £10), are pretty expensive. That being said it is possible to get great quality food at reasonable prices.

Sweden has some wonderful food on its books. During a stay here it’s always advisable to source out some of the local meats – including reindeer, wild boar and moose – while those looking for something a bit more varied can enjoy a smorgasbord; a type of meal served buffet-style containing a variety of hot and cold plates.

For the benefit of this blog, I’m looking at two great mid-range (price-wise) restaurants that I believe should be on all travellers must-visit stops during a stay in Sweden. By mid-range I’m talking about a full three course meal for two including a round of drinks to come to between £80 and £100 (between 1,100 and 1,500 SEK)

The first of these is the Knut Bar – a wonderful little bar and restaurant in the heart of Stockholm city. This neatly designed small restaurant produces a beautiful array of local food and catches some of the prime tastes of Swedish cuisine.

The service here is also superb. The waiters are very attentive but also give you space to enjoy your meal and the company you are in. Most seats at Knut Bar also have cushions and blankets provided for extra comfort and for those cold winter nights.

The Plate from the North is a joy to behold at Knut Restaurant

Food-wise my personal favourites here were the aptly-named Plate from the North – a smorgasbord style dish including moose sausage, rainbow trout tartare and smoked wild boar amongst other dishes followed by the beautifully cooked grilled reindeer roasted beef. For desert make sure you don’t miss the light and airy orange saffron cake with vanilla cream.

The next stop for any seasoned food-loving traveller in Stockholm should be Brinken. Top tip here is book a table in advance. It’s a small restaurant with limited seating allowing for an intimate setting. When my girlfriend and I arrived at the restaurant (having booked a table) the lady in front of us was turned away saying they had no availability until the Wednesday night – and it was Sunday when we went in!

Carnivores will enjoy this smoked deer starter at Brinken Restaurant

Once you are seated however, you can expect a delightful culinary experience. With tables located in the L-shaped room around the small, but active, kitchen, you get right into the heart of the food-making process.

Similar to Knut Bar, Brinken has a small, but well thought-out, menu covering a variety of Swedish tastes.

A good starter option here is the smoked deer in horseradish cream; although the more adventurous amongst you could opt for the pickled herring with egg and anchovy salad. The main courses continue the Swedish theme and the age-old Swedish meatballs make a welcome appearance on the menu, although, if I were you, I’d plump for the wild meat sausage served with caramelised onions or even the Brinken slow-cooked wild boar.

Delving into the deserts, it’s easy to get seduced by the chocolate lava cake but I’d suggest you also pay attention to the seasonal pie served with vanilla cream. This, from my experience, was well worth missing my chocolate fix for.

Useful links

Free Walking Tour Stockholm

Kiev and Chernobyl… Ukraine’s best and worst kept secrets

Kiev

Ukraine has always been a fascination of mine. Perhaps it’s the lure of the unknown or perhaps it’s proximity to the world’s worst nuclear disaster that sparked my imagination. All I know, however, is that for as long as I can remember I wanted to go there and see it in all its raw, ex-Soviet, flesh.

Kiev itself remains one of Europe’s best kept secrets. Rich in history, it remains relatively untouched by tourism. Yet on the back of Europe’s best kept secret, just 100km down the road lies it’s worst; Chernobyl.

Far from being a nuclear wasteland, the first thing I noticed when I got to Kiev was just how green and spacious it is. I was expecting a rather demur, rather drab city with a really repressed feel about it and I couldn’t have been further from the truth.

It seems wherever you look there is an abundance of trees and plants almost masking the gigantic concrete buildings that are lining the wide open streets.

The next thing you notice is the sheer size of Kiev. It’s fair to say this is a massive city with a lot of history behind it. Dating back to around 500AD, Kiev has seen many kingdoms come and go. Today, there are approximately three million people living in, and around, Kiev making it the busiest city in Ukraine.

Another thing I noticed was the number of churches and cathedrals the city possess. It seems that on every turn you come across a new one. It’s hardly surprising however, given the fact that in a recent survey over 67% of the Ukrainian population identified as from one strand of Christianity or another.

These are far from your normal churches either and are stunning in both their architectural style and the wonderful array of colours they are painted in.

St. Michael’s Golden Dome Monastery is a fine example of the beautiful architecture Kiev has to offer

Behind the green curtain of nature that is beautifying the city, Kiev is a real throwback to the USSR days. Huge looming buildings of varying importance are on show all over the capital and tower above the cities streets in sometimes an oppressive fashion.

The city has witnessed some extremely hard times as have many with that Soviet-side to it with recent examples of the 2014 Ukrainian revolution still prominent especially around the Maidan Nezalezhnosti – or Independence Square. Here some of the bloodiest battles between civilians and police occurred resulting in over 100 deaths!

Yet despite this, recent, chaotic history, Kiev is now a very peaceful city. Still not quite being on the European travellers must-see list is also a major plus, as it is keeping costs relatively low, whilst also not having a huge influx of fellow travellers to deal with.

This is changing, however, and year-on-year there is an increased number of visitors to the city; partly helped by relaxed visa regulations for foreign visitors.

This increase could also be linked to hit TV shows, such as the mini-series Chernobyl, that painted a fascinating tale for international audiences and has driven the number of thrill-seekers visiting Ukraine up.

A final point to note. If you are travelling to the Ukraine from the UK you cant get the local currency (Ukrainian Hryvnia) before you leave. UK banks don’t like it, so you have to get all your currency when you arrive in Kiev.

Getting there

Getting to Ukraine has never been easier. No longer do UK tourists require Russian-style visas to enter the country; something the Ukrainian authorities saw sense in getting rid of post their success attracting visitors during Euro 2012 where the Ukraine shared hosting duties with Poland.

As you’d expect, the easiest way to get to Kiev is flying and in recent years, more and more routes have opened up. A number of flight providers now travel between London (Heathrow, Gatwick, Stanstead, Luton and London City) and Kiev Boryspil International Airport; some 35km to the east of Kiev city centre. Flight times are around three and a quarter hours.

As I’ll always do with this blog, I will give flight details for the same month I travelled to a location. In this case, that was during May.

There are a number of airlines that travel to the Ukrainian capital. Ryanair, Wizzair and UIA are three of the main ones that cater for a variety of budgets. It’s possible to fly from London to Kiev for as little as £97 return per person with Ryanair.

When I travelled to Ukraine, however, I went with UIA (you can’t miss them as they are painted bright yellow and blue). While they are a little bit more expensive, they also, for me, had better departure times meaning I could maximise my time in Kiev. At today’s rates for UIA you’d be looking at approximately £215 per person for a return journey between London Gatwick and Kiev.

The flights themselves are relatively unremarkable. I experienced no major issues at all and could take hand luggage with me into the cabin.

Where to stay

There are many options for hotels and AirBnB throughout the centre of Kiev catering for all different price structures. I can only speak about one accommodation in Kiev as during my time in the city I stayed in the Hotel Alfavito which is based slightly to the south of the main city. Getting into the main heart of the city is easy, however, with the metro station Palats a short 200m walk from the entrance.

The hotel itself is reasonable. It claims to be a four star establishment but feels more like a three star. The rooms are quiet basic and the views from the windows are less than inspiring. From my window all I could see was the opposing building and some rather large chimney stacks for local factories. Not a view to take your breath away.

The view from Hotel Alfavito isn’t the best you’ll ever experience

Another area that I was slightly disappointed about was the lack of breakfast included in the room price. Breakfast is available at Alfavito but you have to pay extra (and quite a bit extra) for it. In my experience it’s far easier to go out and buy breakfast on the go rather than pay through the nose for the standard hotel fare.

Cost-wise, I’d say the hotel was mid-range. For a standard double room for three nights in May you can expect to pay around £93 a night; totalling around £280 for the stay.

The staff at the hotel were professionally friendly, but there was no real warmth behind the words. They were polite and helpful but there is no real desire to go the extra mile to enhance your stay. You are just a room number to them.

This may all sound incredibly negative and compared to a number of hotels I’ve stayed in worldwide it is far from the best. However, as a base for activities in the city it is fine. Just perhaps not somewhere I’d return to should I find myself in Kiev again.

Getting around

The easiest way to get around Kiev is through the use of its simple metro system. Don’t expect any bells and whistle on this Soviet-era transportation system but it does have a number of interesting points.

First operated in the 1960, the Kiev Metro is restricted to 52 stops spread across just three lines. With such a sparse metro system in operation, there are in fact only three stations across the network that you can change lines so bear that in mind when making a journey. Fortunately, each of these crossover stations are quite centrally located so won’t cause you too much of an issue.

You buy your journeys from a small kiosk located near the entrance of each metro station. Journey tokens, it should be noted, are very very cheap. Amusingly, I found that each of these kiosks appeared to be operated by the same surly middle-aged woman who wouldn’t sell me multiple journey tickets and instead insisted I buy each time I travelled.

The next thing of note is that the Kiev Metro itself is something of a tourist attraction. One of its stations (Arsenalna) is the second deepest metro station in the world sitting 346 feet below the surface! This impressive feat is only beaten by the ever-competitive North Korean’s whose metro is a whopping 360 feet below the surface. This depth also allowed for the stations to act as bomb shelters had the Cold War taken a nasty turn.

The stations themselves are quiet clean and pretty quiet. I never experienced any issues travelling on the metro at any time of day or night, but it’s always worth remaining guarded of your belongings as is the case in any city.

A number of the stations also have Soviet-inspired murals located on them which add a different element to metro travel and are well-worth a look should you stop at one such station.

Top sites

Kiev itself has a number of wonderful sites and attractions for visitors to get their teeth into. Some of them are more obvious than others – such as the aforementioned churches and cathedrals – while others take a bit longer to root out.

So for this blog I’m not going to focus on those sights above ground as the best things to see. I’m going to go for a much deeper and darker side of Kiev that, if you didn’t know it was there, you’d never be able to experience.

That brings me to Another Kiev. For those not familiar with urbexing, it’s a shorthand way of saying urban exploring. This can take many forms, but often sees participants gaining entry to unused or deserted locations. Often not for the faint-hearted or those with a nervous disposition.

For me, it’s an exciting way to see parts of places that have either been forgotten or lost to time. A version of time travelling back to a different world. That’s what Another Kiev provides and that’s why I booked onto their combo tour; exploring a drain tunnel system and underground river as well as a nuclear bunker under the city.

It’s important to note that when you make your first contact with Another Kiev they are very keen to ensure you have a good level of fitness and are not subject to claustrophobia. Once you’ve ticked those boxes, you’re good to go.

All important equipment is provided for the €40 fee per-person, however, it’s important that you wear clothes that you are happy to, how shall we say, get a little on the dirty side.

My tour started outside Dnypro metro station right by the side of the river. Once there you meet your guide – my guide was called Max – who provides expert information and safety advice for the whole trip. As soon as everyone in the day’s tour group had arrived we’d hopped up on the side, removed a drain cover and were descending into the labyrinth of tunnels under the city’s streets.

It may not seem like the ideal tour for everyone but it really is fascinating. Walking through these small, dark tunnels you feel a million miles away from life above ground. It’s also a great place to get some really cool photography so don’t forget to take your phone with you when you go below.

You get the chance to try out your creative photography skills below the surface

After we exited the drainage tunnels we got in a taxi and went to our next location which was somewhere within the centre of Kiev itself. Here we were asked to wait while Max gained access for us to the nuclear bunker. Then we were in and going down the concrete stairs into this Cold War-era hideout. It was like stepping back in time. After a small jump through a hole in the wall, we were in underground offices still filled with desks, gas masks and documents from the time. Pictures of Lenin still hung on the wall, and you could almost hear the conversations that could have taken place had a war started. The bunker I was in was an extremely eerie place, but it’s important to note that at no point did I ever feel in danger.

Images of Lenin are still hanging on the underground office walls in the bunker

For those with an adventurous streak, Another Kiev is worth the time and effort.

Chernobyl

Now perhaps the main draw for people to Kiev. Chernobyl. The zone itself is a 30km restricted entry. You cannot visit it unless you are on a pre-approved tour. And even then there are strict regulations.

For this trip I went with the well-reviewed Chernobyl Tour. Some basics before you go. Firstly, you’ll need to carry your passport with you on the day you travel as the company have had to register each person entering the Zone that day. No passport, no tour, no exceptions.

Secondly, clothing. You need to wear long sleeved shirts and long legged trousers. No t-shirts or shorts are allowed. Also shoes must not be open toed. Afterall you don’t want any of that pesky radiation in the dust to get onto your skin now do you?

Finally, money. You pay a deposit upfront but the final balance is payable on the day you travel to the Zone in Ukrainain Hryvnia or Euros. For a single person it’s about €90 for the whole trip.

The meeting place for this trip was the same for everyone. Visitors are asked to meet at Ivana Ohienko street, build. 6 (old names of the street is Lukashevicha, Kirpy, Polzunova), which is located 300 meters to the right of the exit of the Yuzhniy (Pivdenniy, South) terminal of the Central Railway station. The bus leaves at 8am sharp, so don’t be late!

Once you’ve arrived, paid the remaining money owed and shown your passport, you are good to travel to the Zone.

The drive itself to Chernobyl is reasonably uninspiring. As you leave Kiev, you’ll be shown footage from the disaster on the on-board TV and given a brief bit of history to the disaster from your guide. The drive takes around an hour and half to complete, depending on traffic.

As you approach the Zone, one thing you do realise quite quickly is that it doesn’t have the feel of an abandoned nuclear disaster area. There are loads of tour buses these days and even small pop-up shops just outside the check point which are great to pick up those gimmicky souvenirs like a glow-in-the-dark fridge magnet!

The next step of your visit will see you go through the checkpoint. For this you have to exit the bus, walk through a radiation detector and then on-board your bus. And that’s it; you’re in the 30km Exclusion Zone! A surprising fact about the 30km Zone is that its estimated to be home to 197 Samosely living in 11 villages as well as the City of Chernobyl. So much for it being an exclusion zone.

Once inside your first stop will be to one of the abandoned villages that make up the exclusion zone. Here you’ll see a variety of old houses in various states of decay – most now engulfed by the vegetation which is reclaiming the land. Be careful where you walk here though as there are many places that have broken glass and nails lying around. The last thing you want is a radioactive nail going through your foot. Also keep an eye open for radiations signs (like that pictured below) and DON’T venture beyond those points. The radiation is most prevalent in the mossy, wet undergrowth so really do not tempt fate and wander too deep into the wooded area.

At this stage it is OK (at the time I went at least anyway) to explore some of the houses and inside you’ll be able to see reminders of those that used to call this area home. One such building where this is especially true is when you arrive at the abandoned kindergarden of Kopachi which is littered with old dolls and teddy bears waiting for their owners to return.

The next stop along the trip will be to the city of Chernobyl itself. This is not where the reactor is and in fact, looks almost modern. Here there are guards posted and military personnel going about their business. It’s clear that even in the Zone itself there are those maintaining certain areas for work purposes.

There are a couple of bits worth seeing here. Firstly, check out the impressive mural on the side of the exterior of a museum commemorating the Chernobyl nuclear disaster depicting an exploding reactor core. Secondly take a walk down the corridor of signs that show just how many villages had to be abandoned due to the 1986 disaster. It makes for quite a sobering experience.

Radiation is still highly prevalent in the exclusion zone, so it’s vital you follow the rules closely

An example of the abandoned toys you’ll see when visiting Chernobyl. This bear loyally awaits the return of its owner at the local kindergarden

In the city of Chernobyl these signs show all the lost towns and villages from the disaster

Once through the villages, you’ll move on to the secret soviet object radar DUGA-1 and the secret town of Chernobyl-2 which provided the efficiency of antennas and horizon tracking of the launching of ballistic missiles.

Shortly after this stop you’ll re-board the bus and head towards one of the two main sites in the zone; the sarcophagus and the New Safe Confinement (“Arch”) around the exploded Reactor 4.

This is in the heart of the 10km exclusion zone and you can surprisingly get to within 300m of the sarcophagus itself. Stays here are limited in time as the radiation is still extremely strong, however, you’ll notice that there are a number of people who appear to be working around this area.

Soon after this stop you’ll make your way to get lunch. This stop takes you to a canteen near the reactor and it’s the same canteen that the liquidators for the disaster used. Don’t expect great food here. Let’s just say it’s edible at best.

After lunch you’ll move onto the second of the two big hitters in Chernobyl; the city of Pripyat.

The sarcophagus that houses the remains of Nuclear Reactor 4

The sign letting you know you’re on the road to Pripyat

Buildings in Pripyat are in various states of disrepair with many falling down

For those of you that don’t know, the city was named after the nearby Pripyat River. Founded on February 4 1970, as the ninth nuclear city (a type of closed city) in the Soviet Union, it served the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant. By the time it was abandoned it had a population of almost 50,000 residents.

The city here was perhaps the biggest draw for me. One thing that is slightly disappointing (albeit totally understandable) is that you are no longer allowed to enter any of the buildings as they have become far too unstable. That’s not to say, however, that there isn’t plenty to see and do.

Things to not miss here include, the old hotel Polissia, the Palace of Culture Energetik, the former swimming pool, the town square with it’s spooky artwork (that has been added by certain visitors), the Pripyat football stadium, the old theatre and supermarket and of course the unused funfair.

When people think of Chernobyl the image of the huge yellow ferris wheel is probably one of the first things that spring to mind. During a visit you can get up close and personal with this relic from history. One thing you’ll notice – should you have access to a dosimeter – is that the ferris wheel itself is still incredibly radioactive! On no circumstances touch it! Stand near it and take photos but don’t lay your hands on it. That you’ll regret.

Just to the side of the ferris wheel is the bumper car (or dodgems) that remain where they sat from the 1980s.

After leaving the city you’ll head towards the exit of the exclusion zone – where you’ll be individually tested for excess radiation. On route you’ll make a couple of extra stops to look at a statue made by the firefighters who helped manage the disaster as well as seeing some of the actual robots used to help clean up the area. Again you cannot touch these as they remain highly radioactive.

For me a visit to this city was a fascinating experience. It’s like an entire outdoor museum. A visit to Chernobyl is something you’ll never forget.

The famous image of Chernobyl; the ferris wheel in the unused Pripyat amusement park

Bumper cars sit in disrepair having not moved since the 1986 nuclear disaster

A trip to Chernobyl allows you to get up close and personal with this famous Soviet relics

Where to avoid

As with any major city there are always parts that you avoid and Kiev is no different. Most of the city, during the day time in my experience is relatively safe although it’s always best to be conscious of where your belongings are at all times. At night, when the streets are dark, it best to take extra precautions on this front. Stay in well lit areas and along the busier parts of the city. While I experienced no problems here myself, I didn’t venture too far off the beaten track at night.

If you have limited time in Kiev then you are going to want to get in as much as possible during your stay. The obvious thing to do (albeit not in the city) is go to see Chernobyl; so some of the city’s other sights may have to take a backseat.

One such sight that is good to see, but not a must in my opinion, is the Friendship of Nations Arch located near Tsentral’nyy Park. This arch was built in 1982 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the USSR and the 1,500th anniversary of Kiev city.

It’s an impressive structure of its sheer size, however, if you are time-poor in Kiev then perhaps it’s best to view this arch from one of the many vantage points down the Dnieper River.

The Friendship of Nations Arch towering above the ground

Another sight to give a miss to is that of the Monument to the Money Frog.

Situated near the Friendship of Nations Arch in Kreschaty Park, this odd statue of a frog sits with its mouth open. As with many statues in cities around the world, this is another opportunity for people to rub a certain part of it for good luck. In this case, visitors can rub the inside of the statues mouth. It’s really not worth trekking all the way to this park for this statue.

The Monument to the Money Frog in all its glory

Great places to eat

From my experience, eating in Kiev is an unusual affair. Let’s be honest, on the whole very few people are travelling here for its culinary treats! On the plus side, however, a substantial meal for two is unlikely to break the bank, so eating and drinking here is extremely affordable.

One thing of note is that in some restaurants, you end up with food you did not necessarily order. When you question this, in my experience, you simply get a shrug of the shoulders and then told to eat it. If you’re not fussy with your food then this ends up being more amusing than a problem, but for those with certain intolerances, it could be an issue.

During my stay in the Ukrainian capital, I sampled a number of small eateries, but two really stuck out to me and for a long-weekend style trip, these are well-worth trying to get in to.

The first is the Georgian-cuisine restaurant Mama Mahaha. This popular restaurant on the main road, Velyka Vasylkivska near the national football stadium, is a real gem that provides a wide range of tasty, filling food.

A real plus point is that they cater well for English-speaking tourists and English menus are available upon request.

The best things to try here are one of the various meats on stick dishes (and there are plenty to choose from) and the Khinkali which is a form of large Georgian dumpling. These taste-filled parcels are not to be missed! Make sure you also order a bottle of wine to accompany your meal which is serviced in traditional Georgian-style; which roughly equates to wine being drunk from a bowl!

The Khinkali at Mama Mahaha are not to be missed

Finally make sure you save enough room for one of the Mama Mahaha’s famous Khachapuri. These are large, cheese-filled breads that have to be tried to be believed. Usually in the centre of these Georgian treats sits a cooked egg which, for me, just tops off how delicious this food is.

The second place I really enjoyed was the rather hipster-like cafe named Literaturne Kafe Imbyr. Located, again near the national football stadium on Zhylianska Street, this is the perfect spot to escape the hustle and bustle of the busy street-life of Kiev.

As a vegetarian / vegan restaurant, meat is totally off the menu. This really shouldn’t detract passioante carnivores from its doors however, as this wonderful restaurant has many treats worth savouring.

Within its walls, this quaint restaurant is nestled amongst the rows of books that line its walls and provides a very easy escape from reality. Here you can get your head down in a good book while also enjoying a light salad or pasta dish alongside a hot drink or cocktail.

Useful links

Another Kiev Urbex Tour

Chernobyl Tour

Kiev Metro

Mama Mahaha

Literaturne Kafe Imbyr

Easter Island… enjoy the middle of nowhere

Easter Island

I thought I would start this blog as far away from home as I possibly could. And it doesn’t get much further away than Easter Island; deep in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. I travelled to Easter Island from Chile back in October 2017 as I thought it would be absolutely incredible to see the magnificent Moai statues in their natural environment rather than just as part of an exhibition in the British Museum in London. It’s fair to say that it’s not the easiest place in the world to get to however, as this blog will go on to show, it’s well worth the time, effort and expense. Before we get into the ins and outs of travelling to Easter Island, let’s take a look at some of this wonderful spec-of-lands intricate, and sometimes confused, history.

As I mentioned, Easter Island is in the Southeastern Pacific Ocean at the south eastern most point of the Polynesian triangle located in Oceania. It’s said to be the world’s most isolated inhabited island and, in fact, it’s closest neighbour is its Chilean brother – the Juan Fernandez Islands – which lies some 1,850 km or, if you’re from the UK, 1,150 miles to the east. Yet while it may sit on it’s own in the middle of nowhere, it is far from forgotten, having been first discovered by the Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen on Easter Sunday in 1722.

Moai statues at the impressive Rano Raraku

Easter Island – or to give it it’s local name Rapu Nui – is home to nearly 8,000 residents, and despite its remote location, is part of Chile. Formed in the shape of a triangle (as the map below will give testiment) the island is a mere 14 miles long and seven miles wide, and its highest point, Mount Terevaka – one of five volcanoes on the island – stands just 600m above sea level.

Google Maps image showing the whole of almost-triangular Easter Island

Yet it’s not its barren environment that draws people to this far-flung corner of the globe; more the 887 Moai statues that litter its hilly landscape. Much has already been written about how these awesome, awe-inspiring Moai statues were created – and indeed transported – so I will not speak too much about that in this blog. Instead, I will focus on the practicalities of travelling to Easter Island and the main sites to see, places to eat and those that you can perhaps pass on. Enjoy.

Getting there

Getting to Easter Island is far from easy. The only airline I know that flies there is South American operator, LATAM. The easiest route – and I use that term lightly – is from Santiago (the capital of Chile) and takes around five hours to get to the Pacific island. In fact, other than by cruise ship, the only other way to get to Easter Island is to fly there from Tahiti!

It’s perhaps one of the weirdest feelings to be landing on the island at Mataveri International Airport. Unlike the behemoth that is Santiago International Airport; Easter Island airport, as I will call it for ease, is no more than a mere wooden shack. Stepping off the 747 onto the tarmac for the first time is a memorable moment. Once down off the aircraft, visitors make their way over to the small terminal building.

Made up of an open plan single room, arrivals step through the opening of the airport, past a wooden model of a whale, and on to collect their luggage from the small conveyor belt. Given that Easter Island is part of Chile there is no need to go through passport control. This means that arrivals to the island go very quickly through the airport and out on to the island itself. This process is helped by the fact that there is usually only one flight arriving each day and then one departing; making this one of the emptiest airports you’ll ever experience.

LATAM flight departing the remote Mataveri International Airport

Other than the fact that flights only depart from two locations, the other issue with getting to Easter Island is the cost. Let’s be fair, it’s not cheap if you are factoring in travel to the mainland of Chilie as well. However, once you’ve arrived in Chile the cost to travel to Easter Island is actually manageable. On average a return trip to Easter Island from Santiago (based on October 2020 prices) could cost as little as £241 per-person for an economy class ticket.

The flight itself with LATAM airlines is a pretty smooth, easy and enjoyable one and given your destination, it’s money well spent. The usual layout of the plane is 3-3-3 seats across the aisle broken up by two gangways. The range of both food and in-flight entertainment is good, but not spectacular, although certainly more than enough to take you through the five hours that you travel across the Pacific Ocean. The films and TV programmes available are ones that you’ve probably already seen, but with one or two new releases to enjoy. Let’s be honest, the TV choices onboard are not really why you’d be going anyway.

Where to stay

Once you’re safely down on Easter Island there is actually a surprising choice of accommodation available ranging in price from campsites all the way up to luxury hotels catering for all price ranges. There are over 200 places to stay on Easter Island – with the vast majority in the island’s only main town (Hanga Roa).

To give you an idea, camping with Camping Tipanie Moana in October for seven nights could cost you as little as £128, while a luxury stay at Hotel Hangaroa Eco Village & Spa can set you back £4,732 for the week. The islands most expensive accommodation however is explora Rapu Nui which can cost an eye-watering £8,652 for a week in October.

With the latter two of these hotels well outside my budget, I plumped for the modest mid-range accommodation of Hotel Iorana; just two minutes from the airport by car and a brisk 20 minute stroll to the docks in Hanga Roa. Costing around £1,167 for a Superior Double Room for the week, Hotel Iorana isn’t one for those looking to travel on a shoestring budget, but it does provide an afforable base just outside of the town.

The entrance to Hotel Iorana is a two minute drive from the airport

The downside of Hotel Iorana is that it may appear slightly simple. The rooms are plain wooden affairs with basic bathroom facilities and dated televisions. There is a rule at the hotel (that I believe stretches across the whole of Easter Island) that all toilet paper goes into the bin after use rather than down the toilet. While this may seem unhygienic there is a good reason for this due to the islands rather rudimentary plumbing systems.

There is also no available wifi in the rooms. To get online you have to sit in the reception area and try and connect to the patchy, intemitent signal there alongside the hotel’s other guests. Not a major issue but don’t expect to be streaming any films during your stay!

On the plus side, the hotel is well situated for the town and reception staff, in my experience, were thoughtful and helpful to my needs. The breakfast buffet options were also plentiful and catered for a wide range of tastes and preferences.

The hotel also boasts two outdoor swimming pools. One a ceramic pool by the hotel restaurant which affords a great view of the surrounding ocean, and the other a sea pool slightly sheltered by the rocks.

However, the best thing about this hotel is waking-up in the morning, opening the double-curtains onto the outside patio (all rooms are on a single floor) and stepping in to the fresh clean-air taking in the spectactular coastal views.

Getting around

In such a small place you can imagine that getting around is pretty simple. Hanga Roa and a number of the Moai sites are walkable from all of the hotels but many visitors also decide to rent bicycles, off-road ATVs or even horses (you’ll notice many wild horses also roaming around the island although I’d advise against trying to mount any of those ones).

There are also regular taxis between Hanga Roa and hotels that can be booked for only a few Chiliean Pesos for the five minute journey.

During my stay I opted to rent a car, which I did from Insular Car Rental which is based on Atumu Tekena (a long road that leads from the airport to the centre of Hanga Roa).

There are a few things you’ll need to know before you rent a car here. The first of which is that there is no car insurance on Easter Island! That means that if you have an accident you will have to pay for it. That may sound a scary prospect to those travelling from big cities like I did, but, to put it in perspective, if you find yourself behind two cars while driving, that counts as a traffic jam! You’ll have a greater chance being kicked by a wild horse than you will of crashing the car into another vehicle.

The next thing to note is that outside of Hanga Roa the roads are awful. This is probably the biggest concern to drivers here as a sudden pothole could cause you problems. My advice, just drive sensibly and you’ll be fine.

Parking, as you’d expect, isn’t an issue here. With no parking restrictions drivers can enjoy the entire island at their leisure and pull over to check the sights at their ease without having to buy parking tickets.

You can park pretty much wherever you want to

Finally, the cost. Most people renting a car here will settle for the compact Suzaki Jimny for a cost of 55,000 Pesos a day (approximately £60 per day).

Top sites

It’s hard to narrow down the best sites on Easter Island and say some are better than others. This is especially true given that due to the islands size and it being basically one large outdoor museum (Easter Island as a whole is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site), it’s pretty easy to see the whole island in one trip. For the basis of this blog I will pick out some of my favourite must-sees from this incredible place.

The first, surprisingly, is actually the one that numerous visitors either, may not know exists or, may not be able to see. That’s because this Moai statue lies 22m below the surface of the ocean! However, as I’ll explain, those without PADI scuba diving qualifications don’t need to feel too let down about this given that it’s a fake.

Back in 1995, Kevin Costner made the film Water World. Around the same time he also co-produced a movie called Rapa Nui – which was, if you haven’t guessed it, about Easter Island. When this film went much the same way as his other more expensive big budget flop, there remained a lone fiberglass and metal Moai statue. The question was, what would the film crew do with this 700-tonne beast? The answer; dump it on the ocean floor. This original underwater Moai eventually broke apart but the tourists liked it so much that one of the scuba companies decided to construct another – this one out of rock – and placed it closer to the harbor.

So while the origins of this statue are far less mysterious than those above the surface, it still makes for an amazing dive experience. There are a couple of dive school options along the harbor at Hanga Roa but the centre I chose to use was Mike Rapu Diving Centre. This relaxed dive school allowed me to rent all the equipment I required and took me to see the underwater Moai, as well as a submerged anchor.

The underwater fake Moai statue is just a five minute boat ride off the shore of Hanga Roa and lies 22m below the surface

Stepping back onto dry land, another must-see is the beautiful open sandy beach at Anakena. Located about 20 minutes drive away from Hanga Roa on the far east side of the island, Anakena offers visitors Easter Islands only sandy beach and what’s believed to be the landing spot for the original settlers to the island.

This pristine landscape is spectacular and, if this beach was anywhere else in the world, would be packed with deck chairs and holidaymakers from sunrise to sunset. Yet even in the peak hours of the day there is still plenty of space on this sandy retreat. However, to get the best views of the beach and the open waters, I’d advise to get there first thing in the morning so you literally have this slice of paradise to yourself.

The waters are very clear and even wading out into the shallows, you’ll often be able to see a variety of fish (including small pufferfish) amongst the rocks.

Arriving at Anakena you’ll notice a small free car park just to the side of the beach which is adjacent to a number of outdoor restaurants and some basic toilet facilities (which I’ll add are not free of charge to use).

Once you’ve walked through the short walkway between the bars, below the trees, you’ll be out onto the beach itself. And in true Easter Island style, you’ll not have to look far for a series of statues of various sizes and states of disrepair.

Behind the sandy shore, sits the statues and often – on the grassy banks nearby – locals will rehearse, or perform, traditional dances for visitors to enjoy.

Finally after sampling all this beach has to offer, you should take time to grab some lunch and sample a fruit juice or two at one of the restaurants. Sitting back, sipping on a delicious drink, taking in the scenery and planning my next move for the day still remains one of my favourite memories from this place.

The stunning Anakena beach is the only sandy beach you’ll find on Easter Island

Local people performing a traditional dance at Anakena

The bars and restaurants at Anakena are the perfect place to plan your day’s activities on Easter Island

The next stop for all Easter Island travellers is the incredible Ahu Tongariki. This is the first place I’ve mentioned that you’ll need to have an entry ticket for.

Easter Island gained protected area status as a National Park back in January 1935 and since December 8, 1995, the Rapa Nui National Park was declared a UNESCO Global Heritage site. As such, tickets are required to gain entry to the main sites. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket office located at the airport entrance gallery, during flight arrival times, at the central office located at Atamu Tekena Street (next to the Cruz Verde pharmacy) or at the Provincial Office of the CONAF located in Mataveri.

The entry has a duration of 10 days (from first use) at a cost of $80USD for foreign adults and $40USD for foreign children. Tickets can be inspected anywhere in the Rapa Nui National Park, so I’d recommend carrying the ticket with you at all times.

That’s the admin sorted. Now you can enjoy Ahu Tongariki!

Once in front of the 15 giant statues the first thing that grabs you is their sheer size. Facing inwards to the island, away from the ocean (as indeed all of the statues do), these silent giants strike an imposing scene on the bare landscape.

Given their position you can walk a full 360° around the statues and examine them from behind to get a full appreciation of the magnitude of these sculptures.

On your approach to Ahu Tongariki you’ll have seen them clearly from the road. Yet nothing quite compares to standing in front of them looking up at their large sky-gazing faces.

Nothing that is except perhaps watching them at sunrise.

To get this once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity you’ll have to wake up early and traverse the potholes-filled roads to make the short 15 minute drive from Hanga Roa along the coastline.

Take up a central position onsite nice and early as other visitors will be trying to do the same. Then simply sit back and enjoy the show.

The enormous Moai statues lined up at Ahu Tongariki

The beauty of Easter Island is that these awesome sites are so visable from the road as you approach

Very little can compare to seeing the sunrise over Ahu Tongariki

Perhaps the best known site on Easter Island is that of Rano Raraku; the birthplace of the great Moai.

Situated on the side of a volcano, it was a quarry for about 500 years until the early eighteenth century, and supplied the stone from which about 95% of the island’s known monolithic sculptures were carved.

Making your way along the path the number of Moai you see, either fallen over or buried, makes you almost feel blasé about these wonderful creations. Then you remind yourself the weight of the task the island’s predecessors undertook to create them and then Rano Raraku becomes anything but ordinary. Standing back and looking out over the remains is a special experience.

Make sure you don’t miss the largest of the incomplete Moai carved into the side of the mountain that, had it been stood up, would be 21.6m tall and weighing over 270 tonnes! Who knows what they were thinking when they created this or how they ever planned to move it. Also follow the path around the hill to visit the unusual Tukuturi Moai in its kneeling position complete with beard. You’ll also get a breathtaking view of Ahu Tongariki in the distance from here.

Finally, as you depart this site, make sure you pull over along the road to get a view back across the whole of Rano Raraku. It’s not to be missed.

With very few cars on the road, you have the freedom to pull over anywhere to grab those memorable snaps

One of the many Moai you’ll see at, what is arguably, the main attraction on Easter Island; Rano Raraku

The final must-see site is the 324m high extinct volcano, Rano Kau on the south-west side of the island.

This enormous crater (which is almost a mile wide) has become a lake and is one of only three sources of fresh water on the island. It sits just south of the airport and can be accessed by a steep, winding road.

Once at the top you will, of course, need your ticket to gain access to the information centre and to look out over the ocean from the stone village of Orongo where the fabelled Birdman cult practiced their activities.

You’ll also get an incredible 360° view of the island from here and be able to see the Pacific Ocean in all directions; further demonstrating just how small Easter Island actually is.

Also of note in this crater is the vegetation growing along the sides of the walls; providing local people with fresh fruit and vegetables.

The crater of the extinct Rano Kau volcano; one of five volcanoes on Easter Island

Where to avoid

Easter Island is such a small fascinating place that it’s hard to name anywhere that you should not try and see. However, if you find yourself short of time then perhaps skip over the Ana Kai Tangata cave paintings. This site is small and free to see but can be done in only a few minutes. If the weather or light is poor, then you may not get the best experience here.

Te Pito Kura is another location that may be visited quickly. The main site here is a face-down Moai statue and a large magnetic stone called Te Pito O Te Henua which means the ‘navel of the world’.

Despite saying this if you can get around all these sites, then do so.

Great places to eat

As you’d probably expect with island culture, its cuisine is based largely around sealife. So for fans of seafood, Easter Island can be a real treat. You won’t find any McDonald’s or Subways here.

One thing you always have to bear in mind with restaurants on the island is that menus can change by the day depending on what food a restaurant has in stock. Don’t be surprised to be told something is unavailable as its run out. However, the food served is both good quality and fresh.

Another thing to remember is that for good quality food in remote locations, you’re going to have to spend a bit of money.

Similaly to its hotels, the vast majority of eateries here are based in and around Hanga Roa and towards its main dock. However, in my personal experience, some of it’s best restaurants are a short walk away from the centre of town.

Just past the harbour, continue down the road that hugs the coastline (Policarpo Toro) and you’ll stumble across Te Moana; a charming little coastline bar and restaurant. Here you’ll get a selection of amazing seafood options as well as steaks, salads and tropical cocktails. Aside from the food tasting incredible, the drinks and the ocean view make this eating experience worth the money.

Moving back towards the centre, and at the end of the Hanga Roa Harbour you’ll find the lively La Kaleta. Seafood is again the flavour of the day here and being just a stone’s throw from the water you can see why. However, the best thing about this little stop is that drinks menu. A wide variety of cocktails are on offer here and the Tequila Sunrise is a personal favourite and one not to be missed. It’s basically a holiday in a glass! Add to that, that you can while away the hours sipping cocktails whilst watching the skillful surfing enthusiasts perfecting their art, it makes for a very pleasant setting. The staff here are also super-friendly and, upon request, will call you a taxi if you’ve had one too many drinks.

The bay in Hanga Roa is home to some wonderful restaurants and bars as well as the dive schools

If, like me, you want to watch the pennies occasionally while you travel then you need to find some affordable options too. One such place is Pea Restaurant. Situated just beyond the only football pitch on the island (a 3G pitch that once hosted Chilean giants Colo Colo when they played a team of Rapu Nui locals for an exhibition match) this handsome restaurant gives a great selection of burgers and salads at prices that don’t break the bank. If you’re lucky enough you can get a table by the edge that overhangs the ocean giving you a chance to spot a sea turtle swimming by.

My final pick for this blog is also my favourite restaurant on Easter Island. Further away from the centre, Mahia Hotel y Restobar can be found down Hanga Piko – a short 15 minute walk from the harbour.

This wonderful restaurant is small in size and is connected to the adjacent hotel and provides interesting flavours for traditional Chilean dishes and seafood. The time I ate here the chef himself made sure every aspect of my dinner was perfectly prepared to my liking and ensured I enjoyed a calm, hassle free dining experience.

The restaurant is also away from any neighbouring establishments meaning that even the minimal Easter Island foot traffic is almost non-existent allowing you to soak in the combined majesty of the food you’re eating with the scenery you’re absorbing. Time your visit with sunset and this Easter Island meal – alongside this almost fairytale island – will live long in the memory.

Shoreside seating at Mahia Hotel y Restobar where the freshest fish is served

Spectacular sunsets can be viewed from Mahia Hotel y Restobar

Useful links

LATAM Airlines

Hotel Iorana

Insular Car Rental

Imagina (site entry ticket information)

Mike Rapu Diving Centre

Te Moana

La Kaleta

Pea Restaurant

Mahia Hotel y Restobar

Introducing… me!

Hello!

Firstly thanks for stopping by. Hopefully this blog will give you a few useful bits of info and, if I do my work correctly, make you smile once or twice. As a keen traveller (well when money allows) I love to see the world. My aim is to get to as many countries out there as possible and to experience as many different cultures as I can. So not setting my sites too high then!

It’s where the idea of World Complete has come from.

So while it may be incredibly unlikely that I’ll step foot in all of the countries on this planet of ours, I’m going to give it the ol’ college try.

So who am I? Well I’m Steve. I’m 37 (at the time of writing) and I live in Kent, UK with my wonderful wife (Holly), my beautiful son (Jacob) and my (sometimes) friendly cat (Mani). The first of these three is more likely to get more airtime on this blog than the latter two, but sometimes I may give a bit of a son and cat update. I work in PR so writing a blog for one of my actual passions seems like a good idea.

What can you expect to see on World Complete I hear you ask? Well I’ll try and cover all aspects of my travels to various locations (flights, arrivals, departures, accomodation, eating out, top sites, things to do, things to skip, fun and games and other little oddities I come across etc.) as well as a bit of history for those interested and some links to websites of the places being spoken about (if they ask where you heard about them then please let them know it was via this blog).

I plan for this blog to be totally unbiased and fully my honestly-held opinion. That’s important to remember. This will be just my impression of places I visit. I will cover the good, the bad and everything inbetween. What I won’t do is blow smoke up the proverbial arse of places just to get likes.

A bit about my travelling habits. It’s fair to say that I’m not a beach person. Give me five minutes on a normal beach and I’m itching to do something. That could be because I get bored quickly or it could also have something to do with the fact that five minutes of strong sun will have me looking… well let’s just say, a tad red.

Finally, any pictures I feature on this blog will be taken by yours truly. So apologies straight away if they are sometimes slightly rough around the edges. I’m no professional photographer, but I’ll give it a go.

All that’s left to be said is please enjoy and join me as we try and become World Complete!