Kraków is one of those cities that leaves an impression long before you arrive.
Poland’s former royal capital has spent centuries at the heart of the nation’s story, surviving wars, occupations and political upheaval to emerge as one of Europe’s most beautiful and culturally significant cities.
Situated on the banks of the Vistula River in southern Poland, Kraków is a place where history feels ever-present. Medieval squares, Gothic churches and grand Renaissance buildings sit alongside reminders of more recent events that shaped not only Poland, but the wider world.
It is a city of remarkable contrasts – one moment you can be admiring the architectural splendour of Wawel Castle, the next reflecting on some of humanity’s darkest chapters at nearby Auschwitz-Birkenau.
For many visitors, Kraków’s appeal lies in this unique combination of beauty and history. The city’s magnificent Old Town is among the finest in Europe, its cafés and cobbled streets buzzing with life throughout the year. Yet beyond the postcard-perfect views lies a deeper story, one that makes Kraków both fascinating and profoundly moving.
My visit took place in December, when the city takes on an entirely different character. Christmas lights illuminate the medieval streets, festive markets fill the Main Square and the scent of mulled wine drifts through the cold winter air. It is a magical time to visit, although one that requires a few extra layers.
So what should first-time visitors to Kraków know before travelling to Poland’s historic southern capital?
Kraków is a friendly and welcoming city to visit in Poland
The first thing to understand is that Kraków is far more than simply a gateway to Auschwitz.
While the former concentration and extermination camp is undoubtedly one of the most important and moving places to visit in the region, Kraków itself deserves several days of exploration. Its historic centre, museums, churches and vibrant food scene make it one of Europe’s great city-break destinations.
The next thing to consider is the weather.
Summer in Kraków is generally warm and pleasant, with temperatures often ranging between 22°C and 28°C (72°F to 82°F). Long daylight hours and outdoor dining make June, July and August particularly popular months to visit.
December, however, is a very different experience. During the month I visited, average daytime temperatures typically hovered between 2°C and 4°C (36°F to 39°F), while overnight temperatures frequently dropped below freezing to around -3°C (27°F). Snow is always a possibility, and while there is no guarantee of a white Christmas, the colder conditions add to the city’s festive atmosphere.
Warm clothing is therefore essential if visiting during winter. A good coat, gloves and sturdy footwear will make exploring the city’s cobbled streets far more comfortable, particularly if you’re planning to spend long periods outdoors.
Kraków on Google Maps
The next thing to consider is the currency. Poland uses the Polish Złoty (PLN) rather than the Euro. At the time of writing, £1 is worth approximately 5 Polish Złoty, although exchange rates naturally fluctuate.
Fortunately, Poland is extremely card-friendly and credit and debit cards are accepted almost everywhere. From restaurants and bars to museums and public transport, I found it rare to encounter a situation where cash was essential. Nevertheless, it can still be useful to carry a small amount of local currency for markets, smaller shops or emergencies.
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in Kraków is refreshingly straightforward. Poland is just one hour ahead of the UK, meaning there is little concern about jet lag. Direct flights from London typically take around two and a half hours, making Kraków one of the easiest and most accessible city-break destinations in Central Europe.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to consider power sockets. Poland uses Type E power sockets, which run on a standard voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz.
UK travellers will therefore need a suitable plug adapter, although no voltage converter is required as the voltage is the same as in the UK.
Language is another area where visitors generally have little difficulty. Polish is the official language, and while it can appear intimidating to English speakers at first glance, many people working in hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions speak good English, particularly in Kraków’s city centre.
That said, making an effort to learn a few basic phrases is always appreciated. “Hello” is Cześć, “thank you” is Dziękuję, and “goodbye” is Do widzenia. Even attempting a few words often results in a warm smile from locals.
One final thing worth considering is how to stay connected. Free Wi-Fi is widely available throughout Kraków in hotels, cafés, restaurants and many public spaces. Depending on your mobile provider, roaming charges may apply, so it is worth checking before you travel.
Many visitors now choose to purchase an eSIM before departure, allowing them to access maps, transport information and translation apps without worrying about unexpected charges.
With these essentials covered, I was ready to explore one of Europe’s most captivating and underappreciated cities.
Getting there
Poland’s second city has become one of Europe’s most popular destinations for short breaks, attracting visitors with its beautiful Old Town, fascinating history and easy access to sites such as Auschwitz Birkenau and the Wieliczka Salt Mine. As a result, there are plenty of direct flight options available from across Britain.
Travellers can choose from several airlines and departure airports. EasyJet operates services from London Gatwick, while Ryanair flies from airports including London Stansted and Manchester. British Airways also offers flights from London Heathrow, and depending on the season there are often additional routes from airports such as Bristol, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Flight times from the UK are pleasantly short. From London, the journey typically takes around two and a half hours, making Kraków an ideal destination for a long weekend away.
For our visit, we flew with EasyJet from London Gatwick. The total cost came to £418 for two people. It is worth noting, however, that this figure included not only the return flights but also three nights in our hotel (which will be covered in the next section of this blog), which represented excellent value overall. Naturally, prices fluctuate throughout the year depending on demand, school holidays and how far in advance you book.
Before long, the aircraft began its descent over southern Poland and we arrived at Kraków John Paul II International Airport.
Located approximately 11km west of Kraków’s city centre near the town of Balice, the airport serves as the main gateway to southern Poland and is the country’s second busiest airport after Warsaw. It is named after Pope John Paul II, who was born in nearby Wadowice and served as Archbishop of Kraków before becoming Pope in 1978.
The airport has grown significantly in recent years. In 2025, it welcomed more than 11 million passengers, reflecting Kraków’s increasing popularity among both tourists and business travellers. Today it serves destinations across Europe, the Middle East and beyond, making it one of Central Europe’s most important regional airports.
Unlike some larger European airports that seem to require a map and compass to navigate, Kraków Airport is refreshingly straightforward. Passenger operations are centred around one main integrated terminal, making arrivals and departures simple and efficient. During our visit, baggage collection was quick and it wasn’t long before we were heading towards the city centre.
The airport operates a single concrete runway measuring over 2,500m in length, capable of handling everything from low cost carriers to larger commercial aircraft. Despite having only one runway, it comfortably accommodates millions of passengers each year.
Facilities include cafés, restaurants, duty free shopping, car hire desks, currency exchange services and direct rail links into Kraków. One of the airport’s biggest advantages is its excellent connection to the city centre, with trains taking around 20 minutes to reach Kraków Główny, the city’s main railway station.
Flying into snowy Poland in December
Where to stay
As with most popular European city break destinations, Kraków offers accommodation to suit virtually every budget. Whether you’re looking for a luxury hotel overlooking the Old Town, a budget friendly hostel or a self catering apartment, you’ll find plenty of options scattered across the city.
For our visit, we stayed at the Hotel Maksymilian, a charming three star hotel located at Karmelicka 36 in Kraków’s historic Old Town district. The location proved to be one of the hotel’s biggest strengths.
Situated just a short walk from the Main Market Square, it placed us within easy reach of many of Kraków’s most famous attractions while remaining far enough away from the busiest tourist streets to feel pleasantly quiet in the evenings. The Main Market Square can be reached in around ten minutes on foot, while Wawel Castle is approximately twenty minutes away.
Our stay formed part of a package booked through Travel Wasp and Qwerty Travel; two companies who were sister online travel brands and are now owned by the UK-based firm Broadway Travel. For the grand total cost of £418 covering return flights from London Gatwick and three nights’ accommodation with breakfast included it was a price, we felt, represented excellent value for our December city break.
The hotel itself occupies an attractive nineteenth century building and has a traditional feel that seemed fitting for a city as historic as Kraków. Rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious, offering everything needed for a few nights exploring the city.
Our twin room was clean, warm and spacious enough for a short stay, which was particularly welcome given the freezing temperatures outside during our December visit. Tea and coffee making facilities were provided, along with complimentary bottled water and free WiFi.
Breakfast was included in our booking and was served buffet style each morning. The hotel also has a 24 hour reception, meaning there was always somebody available to offer assistance or local advice if needed.
One thing I particularly appreciated was the location. Karmelicka Street sits just north west of the Old Town’s main square and provides easy access not only to the historic centre but also to the tram network if you need to travel further afield. Many of Kraków’s key sights can be reached on foot, which meant we rarely needed to use public transport during our stay.
While Kraków now boasts plenty of newer and more modern hotels, Hotel Maksymilian provided exactly what we needed: a comfortable base in an excellent location, good breakfasts each morning and easy access to everything the city has to offer.
Looking out over the courtyard from our room at the Hotel Maksymilian
View from the room at the Hotel Maksymilian when the snow had set in
Getting around
While Kraków has an excellent public transport network, much of what first time visitors come to see is concentrated within a relatively compact area, meaning you can spend most of your time simply wandering from one attraction to the next.
can spend most of your time simply wandering from one attraction to the next.
The historic Old Town, or Stare Miasto, is particularly well suited to walking. Many of the streets are pedestrianised and the city’s main attractions are located surprisingly close together.
From St Florian’s Gate at the northern end of the Old Town, it takes only a short walk down Floriańska Street to reach the Main Market Square, before continuing along the historic Royal Route towards Wawel Castle.
One of the great joys of Kraków is that you rarely need to plan your route too carefully. The Old Town can be crossed on foot in around 15 to 20 minutes, yet it contains enough churches, museums, cafés and historic buildings to keep you occupied for days.
Many visitors spend hours simply exploring the side streets that branch away from the main tourist routes, discovering hidden courtyards, university buildings and small squares along the way.
During our visit, we found ourselves walking almost everywhere. The Main Market Square, St Mary’s Basilica, Wawel Castle and much of the historic centre are all easily accessible without needing to use public transport. Even Kazimierz, the city’s former Jewish Quarter, is only around a 15 to 20 minute walk south of the Old Town.
The city’s layout also helps. Planty Park forms a green ring around the Old Town (although it was pretty white when we saw it due to the snow), replacing the medieval defensive walls that once protected the city. Walking through the park is often just as enjoyable as walking through the streets themselves, particularly during the warmer months.
Of course, comfortable footwear is recommended. Much of central Kraków is covered in cobblestones, which add plenty of character but can become tiring on your feet and legs after a full day of sightseeing.
Wandering around the city is easy and joyful, especially when the Christmas markets are in town
Perched on Wawel Hill above the Vistula River, Wawel Royal Castle is arguably Kraków’s most important historic landmark and one of the most significant sites in all of Poland.
Located at Wawel 5, 31-001 Kraków, the castle sits at the southern end of the Old Town, around a ten minute walk from the Main Market Square. For centuries it served as the residence of Polish kings and became the political and cultural heart of the nation.
The castle complex is vast and there is far more to see than simply the exterior. Visitors can explore the Royal Private Apartments, State Rooms, Crown Treasury, Armoury, Castle Underground and the impressive collection of Ottoman Turkish Tents. The Crown Treasury is particularly fascinating, housing many of Poland’s royal treasures, while the State Rooms provide a glimpse into the grandeur of the former royal residence. Beneath the castle, the underground exhibitions reveal earlier phases of Wawel’s history stretching back centuries.
One thing worth noting is that there is no single admission ticket covering the entire castle. Instead, visitors purchase tickets for individual exhibitions or routes. The most comprehensive option is the combined Castle ticket covering both the first and second floors, which costs 95 PLN (approximately £19). Individual sections such as the First Floor, Second Floor, Crown Treasury and Armoury each cost 47–57 PLN (approximately £9.50–£11.50), while additional attractions such as the Dragon’s Den and Royal Gardens can be visited for a small extra charge.
Opening times vary slightly depending on the area being visited, but most exhibitions are open from 9am until 5pm Tuesday to Sunday, with last admission generally between 40 and 120 minutes before closing depending on the route. Mondays often feature free admission to selected exhibitions, although tickets are limited and must be collected in person.
Even if you choose not to enter every exhibition, Wawel Hill itself is worth visiting. The courtyards, cathedral surroundings, defensive walls and views across the Vistula River provide some of the most picturesque scenes in Kraków.
Looking up at Wawel Castle from the streets outside
The courtyard inside Wawel Castle
One of Kraków’s most underrated attractions is the Planty Garden Ring, a 4km stretch of parkland that completely encircles the Old Town. Located on the site of the city’s former medieval walls and moat, the park creates a green belt around the historic centre and offers a peaceful escape from the busy streets and squares that attract most visitors.
Unlike many of Kraków’s major attractions, there is no specific address, entrance gate or ticket office. Instead, the park surrounds the entire Old Town, stretching from the Barbican and St Florian’s Gate in the north all the way around to Wawel Castle in the south. It covers more than 20 hectares and is divided into a series of distinct garden sections, each with its own character and monuments.
The Planty was created during the nineteenth century after the majority of Kraków’s medieval fortifications were demolished. Rather than build over the land, the city transformed the former defensive zone into a landscaped public park. Today, it remains one of the city’s most beloved green spaces and provides a fascinating reminder of where the ancient walls once stood.
Walking the full circuit takes around 45 minutes to an hour, although most visitors naturally explore sections of it while moving between attractions. Along the way you’ll pass fountains, statues, flowerbeds, tree lined avenues and plenty of benches where you can sit and watch daily life unfold. Surviving remnants of the old city defences, including the Barbican and St Florian’s Gate, can also be found along the route.
My own visit took place in December and, rather than the lush green parkland often seen in photographs, the Planty was covered in a light dusting of snow. While that meant the flowerbeds and lawns were hidden beneath winter colours, it gave the park a completely different charm.
One of the things I enjoyed most about the Planty was how it offers a completely different perspective on Kraków. While the Main Market Square can often feel busy with tourists, the park provides a quieter side of the city where locals walk their dogs, read books, meet friends or simply enjoy a stroll beneath the trees. It is also an excellent place to rest your feet after a day of sightseeing.
Best of all, the Planty Garden Ring is completely free to visit and open 24 hours a day throughout the year.
An owl statue against the snowy backdrop of what would otherwise be the greenery of the Planty Garden Ring
At the very heart of Kraków’s Old Town lies Rynek Główny, the city’s magnificent Main Market Square and one of the largest medieval town squares in Europe. Located in the centre of the historic district, the square has been the focal point of Kraków life since it was laid out in 1257 and remains the city’s most important public space more than 750 years later.
Covering almost four hectares and measuring approximately 200 metres by 200m, it is impossible to visit Kraków without spending time here.
Agauinm unlike many attractions, there is no admission fee or opening time to worry about. Rynek Główny is a public square that can be visited at any time of day or night, and you’ll almost certainly find yourself passing through it multiple times during your stay. Whether you’re arriving from St Florian’s Gate, heading towards Wawel Castle or simply exploring the Old Town, all roads seem to lead back here.
The square is surrounded by some of Kraków’s most famous landmarks. Dominating the centre is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), a Renaissance building that once served as the city’s trading hub and today houses souvenir stalls and a museum. Overlooking the square are the twin towers of St Mary’s Basilica, while the Town Hall Tower stands as the last surviving part of Kraków’s former Town Hall. You’ll also find the Adam Mickiewicz Monument, one of the city’s most recognisable meeting points, and the tiny Church of St Adalbert, which dates back to the eleventh century.
What I enjoyed most about Rynek Główny was simply soaking up the atmosphere. Throughout the day the square is alive with activity. Street performers entertain the crowds, horse drawn carriages wait for tourists, cafés spill out onto the surrounding streets and visitors gather beneath the shadow of St Mary’s Basilica.
Despite the number of tourists, it never feels like a place that exists purely for visitors. Locals still use it as a meeting place, just as they have done for centuries.
However, with my visit taking place in December, it gave the square an entirely different feel. Rather than outdoor cafés filled with people enjoying the summer sunshine, Rynek Główny was transformed by Kraków’s Christmas Market. Wooden stalls filled much of the square selling traditional food, mulled wine, handcrafted gifts and festive decorations, while the smell of grilled sausages and smoked cheese drifted through the cold winter air.
With snow occasionally settling on the rooftops and the lights illuminating the historic buildings after dark, it felt every bit as magical as you might imagine.
The main square in the city is known as Rynek Główny
The square is home to a number of pieces of public art
The surrounding buildings are impressive to see
A visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau is unlike any other excursion you are likely to take during a trip to Kraków. While much of the city celebrates Poland’s culture, history and resilience, Auschwitz serves as a stark reminder of one of the darkest chapters in human history.
It is not a place that can be described as enjoyable, nor should it be, but it is undoubtedly one of the most important places I have ever visited.
For our trip, we booked through Escape 2 Poland, joining their Auschwitz Tour from Kraków. Prices vary depending on the date and availability, but the standard tour is currently advertised from around £82 per person, including transport and a guided visit. The excursion included return transport from the city and a guided visit to both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, making it a straightforward way to visit the memorial without having to arrange transport independently.
The journey from Kraków takes around 90 minutes each way, travelling west through the Polish countryside to the town of Oświęcim, where the former concentration and extermination camps are located.
The visit begins at Auschwitz I, the original camp established by Nazi Germany in 1940. Passing beneath the infamous “Arbeit Macht Frei” gate is a moment that stays with you long after you leave. As you move through the preserved brick barracks, exhibitions and prison blocks, the scale of the suffering that took place here becomes increasingly apparent. Personal belongings confiscated from prisoners, photographs of victims and detailed historical displays help tell the stories of those who were imprisoned and murdered here.
Particularly moving are the exhibits containing suitcases, shoes and other possessions taken from those who arrived at the camp, many believing they were being resettled rather than sent to their deaths. Throughout the visit, the guides explain the development of the camp system, the treatment of prisoners and the role Auschwitz played in the Holocaust, during which more than one million people were murdered here, the vast majority of them Jewish men, women and children.
The infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ sign above the entrance gate sets the tone for what is a harrowing experience
One of the many examples of the thousands of items taken from people as they entered the Concentration Camps
The eerie silence and somber feeling is impossible to escape
A poignant memorial against a wall where countless people were shot and murdered during the Nazi atrocious
WARNING: this photo is one of the most unsettling I’ve ever taken. Inside one of the gas chambers at Auschwitz where untold numbers of men, women and children were murdered
After visiting Auschwitz I, the tour continues to Auschwitz II-Birkenau, located a short distance away. This is the site most people picture when they think of Auschwitz. The sheer scale of Birkenau is difficult to comprehend until you stand there yourself. The railway tracks running through the infamous entrance gate stretch into the distance, while row upon row of barracks disappear towards the horizon.
Standing on the unloading platform where countless deportees arrived is an incredibly sobering experience. Many were selected immediately upon arrival, with some sent to forced labour and others directed straight to the gas chambers. Today, the ruins of those gas chambers and crematoria remain as a powerful reminder of what occurred here. Walking across the vast site, particularly during the cold December weather of my visit, added an extra sense of bleakness to an already deeply moving experience.
The Memorial is open throughout the year, although opening hours vary by season, and visitors should allow at least three and a half hours for a standard guided tour covering both camps. Entry to the memorial itself is free, although guided tours and organised excursions carry additional charges. Advance booking is strongly recommended due to the number of visitors and security procedures in place.
It is difficult to find the right words to conclude a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau. It is not a tourist attraction in the conventional sense, nor is it somewhere you leave feeling uplifted. Instead, it is a place of remembrance, reflection and education. The experience is emotionally challenging, but it is also one that I believe everyone should undertake at least once.
Arriving here would have been terrifying. For many this was the last stop they would ever make
An example of the carriages that would have brough people to the Concentration Camps
Inside one of the surviving living quarters that would have houses thousands of people
Just outside Kraków, in the town of Wieliczka, lies one of Poland’s most fascinating attractions – the Wieliczka Salt Mine.
Located at Daniłowicza 10, 32-020 Wieliczka, around 14 kilometres south-east of Kraków, the mine has been producing salt for centuries and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rather than simply looking around an old mine, the visit takes you deep underground through a remarkable network of chambers, tunnels, chapels and salt-carved artworks.
We visited the mine as part of a tour with Mr Shuttle, who collected us from our hotel in Kraków and took us to Wieliczka before returning us to the city afterwards.
Their standard Wieliczka Salt Mine tour takes around four hours in total, including the journey from Kraków, with the transfer taking approximately 30–40 minutes each way. The tour includes the entrance ticket and a guided visit along the Tourist Route, with an English-speaking local guide leading the underground section.
The mine itself is open from 8am until 6pm, although individual tour times and languages vary, so it is worth checking availability and booking ahead. The standard Tourist Route ticket currently starts at 131 PLN per person (around £26 pounds), with the price varying according to the type of ticket and tour. The admission includes access to the underground exhibition of the Cracow Saltworks Museum.
Once underground, the scale of Wieliczka becomes apparent. The Tourist Route takes you approximately 135m below ground, covering around 3.5km and taking roughly two to three hours. Along the way, you pass through enormous chambers, underground salt lakes, historic mining equipment and sculptures carved directly from the salt rock. There are around 800 steps to negotiate during the visit, including the initial descent, although a lift brings you back to the surface at the end.
The highlight for many visitors is St Kinga’s Chapel, an extraordinary underground church where the chandeliers, sculptures, reliefs and even parts of the floor have been carved from rock salt. It is one of those places that is difficult to appreciate from photographs alone – standing inside a vast chapel hundreds of feet below the surface is a genuinely unusual experience. Elsewhere on the route, the displays explain how salt was extracted and transported and what life was like for the miners who worked beneath Wieliczka for generations.
It is worth remembering that the temperature underground remains around 17–18°C throughout the year, so even if you are visiting Kraków during the summer, taking a light jacket is a good idea. Comfortable footwear is also essential, given the distance walked and number of stairs. The mine allows only small bags, with larger luggage needing to be left in storage or at your accommodation.
The size and scale of Wieliczka Salt Mine is instantly impressive
All the statues and surroundings are made from, or carved out of, the salt from the mine
There is even a church inside Wieliczka Salt Mine
Where to avoid
Unlike some European cities, Kraków isn’t a destination where there are large areas that tourists need to actively avoid. In fact, it is widely regarded as one of the safest cities in Central Europe and, throughout our visit, we never once felt uncomfortable or unsafe.
The Old Town, Kazimierz and the areas around the city’s major attractions are generally well policed, well lit and busy with both locals and visitors.
That said, no city is entirely free from crime and it pays to exercise the same level of awareness you would in any popular tourist destination. The most common issue affecting visitors is petty theft, particularly pickpocketing in crowded areas such as Rynek Główny, Floriańska Street, around Kraków Główny railway station and on busy trams. Keeping valuables secure, avoiding leaving phones or wallets unattended and being aware of your surroundings is usually enough to avoid any problems.
Visitors should also be cautious around overly enthusiastic promoters attempting to lure tourists into bars, clubs or adult entertainment venues. Poland generally has a very low level of violent crime against tourists, but overcharging scams and drink spiking incidents have been reported in some nightlife establishments. As a result, it’s sensible to stick to reputable venues, keep an eye on your drinks and check bills carefully before paying.
If you’re exploring after dark, the city centre and Kazimierz remain lively and generally feel safe well into the evening. Nevertheless, as with anywhere, it’s sensible to avoid poorly lit parks, deserted side streets and unfamiliar residential areas late at night if you’re travelling alone. Most visitors will spend the majority of their time in areas where there are plenty of people around and a visible police presence.
Before travelling, it’s also worth checking the latest UK Government travel advice for Poland. The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office provides up to date information on entry requirements, local laws, transport, demonstrations and any security issues that may affect travellers.
While Poland is considered a safe destination for British tourists, official guidance is always worth reviewing before departure.
Remaining careful and vigilant is the easiest way to avoid any issues in the city.
Great places to eat
When it comes to great places to eat in Kraków, one restaurant that stood out to us during our visit was Chimera.
Located at Świętej Anny 3, just a short walk from Rynek Główny in the heart of the Old Town, it offers a welcome alternative to some of the more tourist-focused restaurants surrounding the Main Market Square.
Housed within a medieval townhouse, Chimera has become something of a Kraków institution. The restaurant is particularly well known for its large salad bar, featuring an impressive selection of fresh salads, vegetarian dishes, vegan options, homemade pastries and natural juices. However, it isn’t exclusively aimed at vegetarians.
Alongside the buffet-style offerings, diners can also enjoy traditional Polish dishes, meat options and seasonal specialities, meaning there is something to suit almost every taste.
The main dining area sits within a covered courtyard, creating a cosy and relaxed setting that feels a world away from the busy streets outside. It is the sort of place where you can take your time over lunch, escape the crowds for a while and recharge before continuing your exploration of the city.
n terms of cost, Chimera is also very reasonable. A typical meal for two, including main dishes and drinks, will generally cost between 100 and 180 PLN (approximately £20 to £36), depending on what you order. This makes it an excellent value option, particularly given its prime location in the centre of Kraków.
Open daily from 10am until 10pm, Chimera is an ideal choice whether you’re looking for a light lunch between sightseeing stops or a relaxed evening meal after a day exploring Kraków’s historic streets.
Chimera is a great place to eat after a day exploring Kraków
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Copenhagen is one of those cities that quietly captures your imagination long before you ever set foot there.
Denmark’s capital has built a reputation as one of Europe’s most liveable cities, a place where colourful waterfronts, royal palaces, cutting-edge design and a famously relaxed way of life come together to create something genuinely distinctive.
Perched on the eastern coast of Zealand and linked to Sweden by the remarkable Øresund Bridge, Copenhagen serves as both Denmark’s political heart and its cultural centre.
It is a city where centuries-old history sits comfortably alongside modern architecture, where bicycles often outnumber cars, and where sustainability isn’t simply a buzzword but a way of life.
Most visitors arrive expecting to see the Little Mermaid statue, perhaps Denmark’s most famous landmark. What many discover, however, is that Copenhagen offers far more than its diminutive bronze icon might suggest. Behind the postcard image lies a vibrant city packed with fascinating neighbourhoods, world-class food, beautiful canals and a relaxed atmosphere that makes it easy to fall in love with.
My visit took place in July, when Copenhagen is at its most inviting. Long summer days stretch well into the evening, outdoor cafés spill onto the pavements and locals make the most of every opportunity to enjoy the sunshine. It proved to be the perfect time to explore a city that seems designed for wandering.
The city of Copenhagen is a colourful and welcoming place
So what should first-time visitors to Copenhagen know before setting off for Denmark’s charming capital?
The first thing to understand is that Copenhagen isn’t a city of grand spectacles or famous landmarks around every corner. Instead, its appeal lies in the overall experience. This is a city best enjoyed slowly, whether that’s strolling along the colourful waterfront of Nyhavn, cycling through leafy neighbourhoods, watching boats glide through the canals or simply enjoying a coffee in one of the city’s many cafés.
The next thing to consider is the weather.
Summer is undoubtedly one of the best times to visit Copenhagen, with temperatures typically ranging between 20°C and 25°C (68°F to 77°F). The city enjoys long daylight hours during June, July and August, with darkness arriving surprisingly late in the evening.
During July, when I visited, average daytime temperatures hover around 20°C to 21°C (68°F to 70°F), while evenings typically cool to around 13°C to 14°C (55°F to 57°F). While these temperatures may not rival southern Europe, the combination of pleasant weather and almost endless daylight creates ideal conditions for exploring the city on foot.
The currency in Denmark is the Danish Krone (DKK). Although Denmark is a member of the European Union, it has retained its own currency rather than adopting the Euro.
At the time of writing, £1 is worth approximately 8.5 Danish Krone, although exchange rates naturally fluctuate. Denmark has a reputation for being one of Europe’s more expensive destinations, particularly when compared with cities in Central and Eastern Europe, so it is worth budgeting accordingly.
The good news is that Copenhagen is almost entirely cashless. Credit and debit cards are accepted virtually everywhere, from restaurants and hotels to market stalls and public transport. During my visit, there were numerous occasions where I didn’t need cash at all.
Copenhagen as seen on Google Maps
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in Copenhagen is refreshingly easy. Denmark is just one hour ahead of the UK, meaning there is virtually no jet lag to contend with. Direct flights from London typically take less than two hours, making Copenhagen one of the most accessible city-break destinations in Europe.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to consider power sockets.
Denmark primarily uses Type K and Type E power sockets, operating at a standard voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz.
While many modern hotels provide USB charging points, UK visitors will still require a travel adapter for most electrical devices.
Language is rarely a concern for visitors to Copenhagen. Danish is the official language, but English is spoken to an exceptionally high standard throughout the city. Whether ordering food, asking for directions or checking into a hotel, most travellers will encounter very few communication difficulties.
That said, locals always appreciate a little effort. “Hello” in Danish is Hej, while “thank you” is Tak. Even mastering these two simple words can often earn a smile from those you meet.
One final thing worth considering is staying connected. Free Wi-Fi is widely available throughout Copenhagen, particularly in hotels, cafés, restaurants and public spaces. EU roaming rules no longer automatically apply to UK visitors, so checking your mobile provider’s roaming charges before travelling is advisable.
Many travellers now choose to purchase an eSIM before departure, providing reliable mobile data throughout their stay without the need to swap physical SIM cards.
With those essentials taken care of, all that remained was to discover what makes Copenhagen so special. From colourful harbours and royal palaces to historic streets, fascinating museums and, of course, a certain famous mermaid, Denmark’s capital quickly proved that it offers far more charm than its most famous resident alone would suggest.
Getting there
Copenhagen is one of those European capitals that feels surprisingly close to home. It is only a short flight from the UK, yet within a couple of hours you can find yourself surrounded by colourful harbour buildings, bicycles, Scandinavian design and the unmistakable Danish way of life.
With direct flights from several UK airports, getting there is refreshingly simple – which is exactly how we started our own trip to the Danish capital.
Travellers have plenty of choice when it comes to airlines. British Airways operates services from London Heathrow, while easyJet flies from London Gatwick. Ryanair also serves Copenhagen from London Stansted and a number of regional UK airports. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS), Denmark’s national carrier, offers additional connections from Heathrow, Manchester and other UK cities throughout the year.
Flight times are pleasantly short, typically taking around one hour and fifty minutes from London. Before you know it, the English coastline disappears beneath the clouds and you’re descending over the islands and waterways that surround Denmark’s capital.
For our trip, we flew with Norwegian Air from London Gatwick. I can no longer say exactly what we paid for our flights, but at the time of writing, return fares for a July trip were available from around £133 per person. As always, prices vary considerably depending on when you book, school holiday dates and the popularity of your chosen travel period.
Our arrival point was Copenhagen Airport, known locally as Københavns Lufthavn. Located in Kastrup on the island of Amager, the airport sits approximately eight kilometres south east of Copenhagen’s city centre, making transfers into the city quick and straightforward. In fact, thanks to the excellent rail and Metro connections, it’s possible to go from aircraft seat to city centre café in well under an hour.
Copenhagen Airport is the largest airport in Scandinavia and serves as one of Northern Europe’s most important aviation hubs. In 2025, more than 32.4 million passengers passed through its terminals, the highest annual total in the airport’s history and a reflection of Copenhagen’s growing popularity as both a tourist destination and international transport gateway.
Despite handling such huge numbers, the airport is surprisingly easy to navigate. Passenger operations are centred around two active check in terminals, Terminal 2 and Terminal 3, which are connected and function as part of a single integrated airport complex. Clear signage, efficient security procedures and a generally calm Scandinavian approach to organisation make the whole experience refreshingly stress free.
The airport itself operates three runways, allowing it to accommodate everything from short haul budget flights to long haul services connecting Denmark with destinations across North America, Asia and the Middle East. Its role as a major hub means you’ll often see aircraft from all over the world parked alongside each other on the apron.
Facilities are exactly what you would expect from a major international airport. There are numerous cafés and restaurants, duty free shopping, currency exchange services, car hire desks and direct rail and Metro links into the city. One of Copenhagen Airport’s greatest strengths is how well connected it is, with trains and Metro services running directly from the airport terminal into central Copenhagen within minutes.
For an airport handling more than 32 million passengers a year, the whole experience felt remarkably efficient. There was none of the confusion or endless walking that sometimes comes with larger airports.
Instead, everything seemed designed to get passengers moving quickly and smoothly, allowing us to start exploring Copenhagen almost immediately after landing.
Sitting on the plane waiting to disembark at Copenhagen
Where to stay
For our stay in Copenhagen, we chose the Absalon Hotel, a four star, family owned hotel in Vesterbro, one of the city’s liveliest neighbourhoods.
You’ll find it at Helgolandsgade 15, 1653 Copenhagen V, just a few minutes’ walk from Copenhagen Central Station, making it a particularly convenient base if you’re arriving by train – as we did – or travelling around the city by public transport.
The location is one of the hotel’s biggest advantages. Vesterbro sits immediately south west of the city centre and has plenty going on in its own right, with restaurants, cafés and bars around every corner.
The famous Kødbyen, Copenhagen’s former Meatpacking District, is nearby, while Tivoli Gardens, Strøget and the main sights of the city centre are all within walking distance. The hotel describes itself as being right in the heart of Vesterbro, and it certainly feels that way when you step outside.
The hotel itself has been welcoming guests since 1938 and now has 161 rooms and suites. Rooms are individually styled with Designers Guild fabrics, with options ranging from the smaller 10–20 square metre Original Rooms through to Superior Rooms, Junior Suites and the 60 square metre Tricia Guild Suite. Standard facilities include Wi-Fi, air conditioning, tea and coffee making facilities and a safe.
Prices in Copenhagen can vary considerably depending on the time of year, room type and how far ahead you book. As a rough guide, I’d budget around £600 to £900 for three nights in July for two people.
The hotel’s advertised starting rates are currently from DKK 895 (£102) per night for some room categories, rising to around DKK 1,495 (£171) for others, although these are starting prices rather than guaranteed July rates.
Breakfast is also available at the hotel, with a buffet including bread, pastries, cheeses, cold meats, eggs, pancakes, yoghurt, cereals, fruit, tea and coffee. It is served from 6:30am on weekdays and until 11am at weekends, which is useful if you want to make an early start exploring Copenhagen.
For me, the Absalon works particularly well because you get a comfortable hotel in a lively part of Copenhagen without being stuck in the middle of the busiest tourist area. Copenhagen Central Station is practically on the doorstep, while many of the main attractions are close enough to reach on foot, giving you the flexibility to explore the city without constantly relying on public transport.
Inside a room at the Absalon hotel
Getting around
One of the things I liked most about Copenhagen was just how easy it is to get around.
Whether you’re arriving from the airport or exploring the city itself, everything feels efficient, well organised and designed to make travelling as simple as possible.
If you’re arriving at Copenhagen Airport like us, getting into the city centre couldn’t be much easier. Both the train and Metro depart directly from Terminal 3, which is connected to the arrivals area. Simply follow the signs after collecting your luggage and you’ll soon find yourself at the transport hub beneath and alongside the terminal.
For most visitors, either option works well. The Metro runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and departs every four to six minutes during the day and evening, with less frequent services overnight. Journey times to the city centre are less than 15 minutes, with trains reaching Kongens Nytorv in around 13 to 14 minutes and Nørreport in around 15 minutes.
The train is equally convenient, departing from Terminal 3 and reaching Copenhagen Central Station in around 15 minutes. During the day, services generally run every ten minutes, making it an excellent option if your hotel is close to the central station area.
A standard ticket from the airport to central Copenhagen costs 36 Danish Kroner (about £4.25) and can be used on either the Metro or train. Tickets can be purchased from machines within Terminal 3 before travelling.
One piece of advice I would give if you’re planning to use public transport regularly during your stay, is to consider buying a City Pass.
Designed specifically for visitors, the pass provides unlimited travel on buses, trains, the Metro and harbour buses within selected zones for a fixed period. Options range from 24 hours to five days, allowing you to choose a pass that matches the length of your trip.
At the time of writing, a City Pass Small covering the city centre and airport zones costs 100 DKK (about £11.40) for 24 hours, 160 DKK (about £18.25) for 48 hours, 220 DKK (about £25.10) for 72 hours, 280 DKK (about £32.00) for 96 hours and 340 DKK (about £38.80) for 120 hours.
For visitors planning multiple journeys each day, particularly including airport transfers, the pass can offer both convenience and good value while removing the need to buy individual tickets.
Once you’re in Copenhagen itself, walking is undoubtedly one of the best ways to explore. Despite being Denmark’s largest city, many of the main attractions are surprisingly close together.
During our visit we found ourselves regularly walking between the likes of Tivoli Gardens and the Little Mermaid without needing to rely heavily on public transport.
The city is exceptionally pedestrian friendly, with wide pavements, clearly marked crossings and an atmosphere that encourages you to slow down and enjoy your surroundings. Walking also gives you the chance to appreciate the colourful architecture, picturesque canals and hidden courtyards that make Copenhagen so charming.
Of course, you’ll need to keep an eye out for cyclists. Copenhagen’s cycling culture is famous around the world and bikes often outnumber cars in the city centre.
Dedicated cycle lanes are everywhere and locals move through them at speed, so it’s worth paying attention before stepping across one.
Walking around Copenhagen is easy and the city is very pedestrian friendly
Top sites
If there is one image that perfectly sums up Copenhagen, it is Nyhavn.
The colourful waterfront district has become the Danish capital’s most recognisable landmark, with its brightly painted townhouses, historic wooden ships and bustling waterside atmosphere appearing on countless postcards, guidebooks and social media feeds.
Located in the heart of the city centre, stretching from Kongens Nytorv towards the Inner Harbour, it is usually one of the first places visitors head when arriving in Copenhagen.
Originally constructed in the 1670s as a working commercial harbour, Nyhavn spent centuries welcoming sailors, merchants and fishing boats into the city. Today, the old warehouses and merchants’ houses have been transformed into cafés, restaurants and bars, while the canal remains lined with beautifully preserved historic vessels.
The area is also closely associated with Hans Christian Andersen, who lived at several addresses along the waterfront and wrote some of his famous fairy tales while residing here.
One of the best things about Nyhavn is that it costs absolutely nothing to visit. The waterfront is open 24 hours a day and can be enjoyed entirely free of charge, making it one of Copenhagen’s most accessible attractions.
Simply wandering along the canal, admiring the colourful buildings and watching boats pass by is an experience in itself. If you wish, you can also join one of the canal tours that depart from Nyhavn, although these carry an additional charge.
What makes Nyhavn worth visiting is not necessarily any single attraction but the atmosphere of the place as a whole. Whether you’re enjoying a morning stroll, stopping for lunch beside the water or simply taking photographs of one of Europe’s most picturesque waterfronts, there is something undeniably charming about it.
For first-time visitors to Copenhagen, Nyhavn is the perfect place to begin.
Nyhavn is a hub of activity in central Copenhagen
No visit to Copenhagen would feel complete without seeing the city’s most famous resident, The Little Mermaid.
Perched on a rock beside the waterfront at Langelinie, around two kilometres north of Nyhavn, the statue has become an enduring symbol of both Copenhagen and Denmark itself. Despite its relatively modest size, it attracts more than a million visitors each year and remains one of the most photographed landmarks in Scandinavia.
The statue was unveiled in 1913 and was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s famous fairy tale of the same name. It was commissioned by Danish brewer Carl Jacobsen, whose family founded the Carlsberg brewery, after he was captivated by a ballet based on the story. The bronze figure, created by sculptor Edvard Eriksen, depicts the mermaid gazing out across the harbour, forever caught between the worlds of land and sea.
One of the best things about visiting The Little Mermaid is that it is completely free. Located on the Langelinie promenade, the statue can be visited at any time of day and is easily reached on foot, by bicycle or via public transport from the city centre. Many visitors choose to combine it with a walk around Kastellet, Copenhagen’s well-preserved star-shaped fortress, which sits just a short distance away.
The statue itself often surprises first-time visitors. Standing just 1.25m tall and weighing around 175kg, it is considerably smaller than many people expect. Yet its size is part of its charm. Rather than dominating the waterfront, it sits quietly overlooking the water, creating a far more intimate experience than many of Europe’s grander monuments.
When I visited, what struck me most was the contrast between the statue’s worldwide fame and its simplicity. There are no elaborate displays, visitor centres or expensive admission fees. Instead, there is simply a bronze mermaid, a harbour backdrop and a connection to one of Denmark’s most beloved stories. It is a reminder that sometimes a city’s most iconic attraction doesn’t need to be its biggest.
For many visitors, seeing The Little Mermaid is a box-ticking exercise. However, when viewed as part of Copenhagen’s wider maritime heritage and literary history, it becomes much more than that. It may be small, but it has become one of the most recognisable statues in the world.
The Little Mermaid is possibly the most famous site in Copenhagen
Crowds can be fairly busy around her, but when you get a good spot you can take some nice photographs
Few attractions are as closely associated with Copenhagen as Tivoli Gardens.
Located at Vesterbrogade 3, 1630 Copenhagen, directly opposite Copenhagen Central Station, Tivoli sits right in the heart of the city and has been entertaining visitors since 1843. Not only is it one of Denmark’s most famous attractions, it is also the third-oldest operating amusement park in the world.
At first glance, Tivoli might appear to be simply a theme park, but it is so much more than that. Behind its gates you’ll find beautifully landscaped gardens, lakes, historic buildings, restaurants, cafés, live entertainment venues and a collection of rides ranging from gentle family attractions to adrenaline-filled rollercoasters.
Throughout the year the park also hosts concerts, theatrical performances, seasonal festivals and special events, helping to create an atmosphere that feels very different from a traditional amusement park.
Entry prices vary depending on the date and season of your visit, but standard admission for adults generally starts from around 150 DKK to 275 DKK (approximately £17 to £31). It’s worth noting that entrance only grants access to the gardens and entertainment areas.
If you wish to enjoy the rides, you’ll need to purchase a separate Ride Pass or a combined admission and Ride Pass package. Combined packages typically start from around 389 DKK to 469 DKK (approximately £44 to £53).
One of the reasons Tivoli is worth visiting is that there is something for everyone, regardless of age. Thrill seekers can enjoy some of Denmark’s most popular rides, while those looking for a more relaxed experience can simply wander through the gardens, enjoy a meal beside the lake or take in one of the many performances included with admission. The park’s central location also makes it easy to combine with other Copenhagen attractions during the same day.
Perhaps the best time to visit is after dark. As evening falls, thousands of lights illuminate the gardens, buildings and pathways, transforming Tivoli into one of the most magical locations in Copenhagen.
Looking towards the entrance to Tivoli Gardens; the third-oldest operating amusement park in the world
Tivoli Gardens may be one of the oldest theme parks in the world, but it has some superb modern rides
One of the high-flying rides in action at Tivoli Gardens
There are rides for all ages at Tivoli Gardens
While Copenhagen is a fantastic city to explore on foot, one of the most memorable experiences of my trip was seeing it from the water. With canals weaving through the city centre and a harbour that has been transformed from an industrial port into one of Europe’s cleanest urban waterfronts, Copenhagen offers a completely different perspective when viewed from a kayak.
For this, we rented a kayak from Kayak Republic, located at Børskaj 12, 1221 Copenhagen, between Christiansborg Palace and the National Bank in the heart of the city.
Kayak Republic offers both guided tours and independent kayak hire. Their popular guided City Tour lasts around two hours and takes paddlers through the historic canals, past landmarks such as Nyhavn, Christiansborg Palace and Christianshavn, all while learning about the city’s history from experienced guides. Guided tours start from around 445 DKK per person (approximately £51).
We opted to rent kayaks and explore independently, which allowed us to take things at our own pace and enjoy the city from a unique angle.
Single kayak hire starts from around 195 DKK per hour (approximately £22), with all the necessary equipment provided, including a paddle and life jacket. No previous kayaking experience is required for the sit-on-top kayaks used by most visitors.
What makes the experience so enjoyable is the opportunity to glide quietly through areas that are often busy on foot. From the water you pass beneath historic bridges, alongside colourful waterfront buildings and past houseboats that give parts of Copenhagen a distinctly relaxed atmosphere. Landmarks that feel familiar from street level suddenly look completely different when viewed from the water.
Paddling along one of the canals through Copenhagen
Enjoying getting out onto the water to see Copenhagen from a slightly different angle
Looking up at the colourful buildings in Copenhagen from the water is an extremely enjoyable way to spend time in the city
If you’re looking to escape Copenhagen for a few hours and experience some of Denmark’s rich history, a Kronborg Castle day trip is an excellent choice.
Located in the coastal town of Helsingør, around 45km north of the capital, Kronborg is one of Northern Europe’s finest Renaissance castles and has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is perhaps best known around the world as Elsinore, the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
For our visit, we booked a day trip through Civitatis, which provided a simple and hassle free way to explore the castle without worrying about organising transport independently.
However, Kronborg is also easy to reach by train from Copenhagen, with direct services departing regularly from Copenhagen Central Station and taking around 45 to 50 minutes to reach Helsingør. From there, it’s a pleasant ten minute walk along the waterfront to the castle itself.
The castle sits in a commanding position overlooking the Øresund Strait, the narrow stretch of water separating Denmark and Sweden.
For centuries this location made Kronborg one of the most strategically important fortresses in Northern Europe, allowing Danish kings to control shipping entering and leaving the Baltic Sea. The result is an imposing structure of towers, ramparts, courtyards and grand halls that feels every bit as impressive as its reputation suggests.
Inside, visitors can explore lavish royal chambers, historic ballrooms, exhibitions on Danish history and the famous underground casemates. These dark tunnels beneath the castle walls are home to the legendary statue of Holger Danske, a mythical Danish hero said to remain asleep until Denmark faces its greatest hour of need. The castle also offers spectacular views across the sea towards Sweden from its defensive walls and towers.
One of the highlights for many visitors is the castle’s connection to Hamlet. Although Shakespeare almost certainly never visited Denmark himself, Kronborg became immortalised as Elsinore in his famous tragedy. Today, the castle fully embraces that connection, with exhibitions, guided tours and seasonal performances helping bring the story to life.
Kronborg is generally open daily from 10am until 5pm during the main visitor season. Adult admission costs 150 DKK (approximately £17), while children under 18 can visit free of charge. Online bookings are slightly cheaper at 135 DKK (approximately £15).
Looking up at Kronborg Castle
The Danish flag flying proudly at Kronborg Castle
The statue of Holger the Dane at Kronborg Castle
Where to avoid
Denmark consistently ranks among the safest countries in the world, and Copenhagen is one of those cities where it’s easy to feel comfortable exploring on foot both during the day and in the evening. Throughout our visit, we found the city to be clean, welcoming and exceptionally easy to navigate.
If I were to highlight one attraction that some repeat visitors might choose to skip, it would probably be The Little Mermaid. While – as previously mentioned – it is undoubtedly Copenhagen’s most famous landmark and well worth seeing on a first visit, those returning to the city may find their time better spent exploring some of Copenhagen’s lesser known neighbourhoods, canals and cultural attractions.
From a safety perspective, Copenhagen presents very few concerns for tourists. Violent crime is rare, and most visits are trouble free. As with any major European city, however, it is sensible to remain aware of your surroundings in busy tourist areas, railway stations and on public transport where opportunistic pickpocketing can occasionally occur. Keeping valuables secure and avoiding leaving phones or wallets unattended is usually more than sufficient.
The areas around Copenhagen Central Station and parts of the Nørrebro district have historically had a reputation for being slightly rougher than the rest of the city, particularly late at night. However, even these areas are generally far safer than many equivalent districts in other European capitals and are visited daily by both locals and tourists without issue. Common sense rather than concern is usually all that’s required.
Before travelling, it’s always worth checking the latest UK Government travel advice for Denmark. The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office provides up to date information on entry requirements, local laws, transport disruptions and any issues that may affect visitors. Denmark is considered a very safe destination for British travellers, but official guidance is always useful to review before departure.
Ultimately, Copenhagen is a city best approached with curiosity rather than caution. There are very few places that warrant avoiding altogether, and much of the enjoyment comes from simply wandering its streets, exploring its waterfronts and discovering the character of its different neighbourhoods.
If you exercise the same sensible precautions you would anywhere else, you’ll likely find Copenhagen to be one of the safest and most enjoyable cities you’ll visit in Europe.
As with any major city, take slightly extra care after dark and stay in well-lit areas
Great places to eat
One restaurant I particularly enjoyed in Copenhagen was MaMeMi, a Roman Italian pizzeria in Vesterbro, just off Istedgade on Mysundegade.
The restaurant is only a few minutes’ walk from Enghave Plads and the Vega concert venues, making it a convenient option if you’re exploring this part of Copenhagen. It has a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, with the focus very much on Italian food, wine and good quality ingredients.
The speciality at MaMeMi is Roman style pizza, which is noticeably different from the Neapolitan pizzas you might be more familiar with. The bases are thin and crispy rather than soft and doughy, with the restaurant describing them as having a characteristic crunch.
The toppings are also relatively minimalist, allowing the individual ingredients to stand out. The menu included pizzas such as Carbonara, Amatriciana, Cacio e Pepe, Mortadella and Gorgonzola, as well as more unusual combinations such as guanciale with caramelised onions, provola cheese, Danish apples and balsamic glaze. There were also vegetarian and vegan options, while all of the pizzas could be made with gluten free dough.
Prices were fairly typical for a good quality restaurant in Copenhagen, with pizzas currently costing between 155 DKK (around £17.90) and 170 DKK (around £19.60). There are also starters, with an antipasti selection available for 189 DKK (around £21.80), while desserts such as homemade tiramisu and chocolate fondant cost around 78 DKK (around £9) and 80 DKK (around £9.20) respectively. If you want to make more of an evening of it, MaMeMi also offers a set menu costing 395 DKK (around £45.60) per person, including antipasti, a pizza and dessert.
What I liked about MaMeMi was that it felt like more than simply somewhere to grab a pizza. The combination of the crispy Roman style base, carefully chosen toppings, Italian wines and relaxed Vesterbro setting made it a good place to sit down and enjoy a proper meal.
If you’re looking for something a little different from the usual pizza while exploring Copenhagen, MaMeMi is well worth adding to your list.
Examples of the pizzas on offer at MaMeMi
Another restaurant worth considering in Copenhagen is Sticks’n’Sushi at the Tivoli Hotel, which occupies the 12th floor of the hotel’s Harbour Tower on Arni Magnussons Gade.
It is just south of the main city centre, close to Kalvebod Brygge and Vesterbro, and the elevated position gives the restaurant panoramic views across Copenhagen. There is also a large rooftop terrace, which opens for outdoor dining when the weather allows.
As the name suggests, the menu combines sushi with grilled Japanese sticks, with the food bringing together Japanese traditions and Danish simplicity. Alongside freshly prepared sushi, you can choose from grilled yakitori, rice paper rolls, salads and desserts, while the bar serves cocktails and sake.
The restaurant has an open kitchen and a stylish interior, with large windows making the views across Copenhagen a big part of the experience. On a clear day, you can see across the city towards the Zoo Tower.
Prices are towards the more expensive end of Copenhagen dining, with the restaurant’s current price range sitting at around 300 DKK (around £34) to 900 DKK (around £101) per person depending on what you order. There is also a special Nothing Beyond premium menu available exclusively at the Tivoli Hotel and Tivoli Haven.
If you happen to be visiting on a Saturday, the restaurant also offers a Bottomless Lunch from 12pm to 5pm for 599 DKK (around £67) per person, including 90 minutes of unlimited drinks alongside a selection of sushi, starters and grilled sticks.
For me, the main attraction of Sticks’n’Sushi at the Tivoli Hotel is the combination of the food and the setting. You’re not simply going out for sushi, as the views from high above Copenhagen make the meal feel like part of the sightseeing experience too.
The rooftop terrace would be particularly appealing on a warm day, while the floor to ceiling windows mean you can still enjoy the views when you’re eating inside. It is therefore a good choice if you’re looking for somewhere a little more special during your time in Copenhagen, particularly for an evening meal overlooking the city.
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Bratislava is a city that many travellers pass through without ever truly discovering. Sitting just an hour from Vienna by train and often overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Slovakia’s capital rarely tops lists of Europe’s must-see destinations.
Yet those who do take the time to visit are often rewarded with one of the continent’s most pleasantly surprising city breaks.
Perched on the banks of the Danube River and nestled at the foot of the Little Carpathian Mountains, Bratislava occupies a unique position in Europe. It is the only national capital in the world to border two other countries – Austria and Hungary – and its history has been shaped by centuries of cultural influences from across Central Europe.
Despite being Slovakia’s largest city, Bratislava feels remarkably compact. Its charming Old Town, hilltop castle, riverside promenades and café-lined squares create a welcoming atmosphere that is easy to explore and enjoy over a long weekend.
My visit took place in October, which proved to be an excellent time to experience the city. The summer crowds had largely disappeared, the autumn colours were beginning to appear across the parks and surrounding countryside, and the cooler temperatures made wandering the city’s historic streets particularly enjoyable.
Before arriving, there were a few practical things worth knowing.
Cumil the Sewer Worker is one of the Bratislava’s most iconic sites
One of Bratislava’s biggest strengths is its size. Unlike many European capitals where attractions can be spread across vast distances, most of Bratislava’s highlights are concentrated within a relatively small area. This means less time spent travelling and more time spent actually enjoying the city.
Weather-wise, Bratislava enjoys a typical Central European climate.
Summer temperatures generally range between 24°C and 30°C (75°F to 86°F), with July and August often bringing long, sunny days perfect for exploring the city’s outdoor attractions and riverside cafés. The warmer months are also when the Danube waterfront comes most alive.
October, when I visited, offered a much cooler but still very pleasant experience. Daytime temperatures typically sit around 15°C (59°F), while evenings can fall to around 6°C to 8°C (43°F to 46°F). A light jacket is usually enough during the day, although an extra layer becomes useful once the sun begins to set.
Bratislava on Google Maps
The local currency is the Euro (€), making things refreshingly straightforward for visitors already familiar with travelling elsewhere in the Eurozone. Card payments are widely accepted throughout the city and, during my visit, there were very few occasions where carrying cash felt necessary.
For British travellers, Bratislava is particularly convenient. Slovakia is only one hour ahead of the UK, so there is no meaningful time difference to contend with. Direct flights from London take a little over two hours, while many visitors also combine Bratislava with Vienna, taking advantage of the excellent transport links between the two capitals.
When it comes to electricity, you’ll need to pack a travel adapter. Slovakia uses Type E power sockets operating at 230 volts and 50 Hz, meaning travellers from the UK will need a plug adapter.
Fortunately, because the voltage is the same as in the UK, there is no need for a voltage converter for phones, laptops or other modern electronics.
Language is another area where visitors should feel comfortable. Slovak is the official language, but English is widely spoken in hotels, restaurants, bars and tourist attractions throughout the city centre.
That said, learning a couple of local phrases is always appreciated. “Hello” is Ahoj, while “thank you” is Ďakujem. Even a small effort often receives a warm response from locals.
One thing that immediately stood out during my visit was how relaxed Bratislava felt compared with many larger European capitals.
The city lacks the crowds of Prague, the intensity of Budapest and the sheer scale of Vienna. Instead, it offers something altogether more manageable. It’s a destination where you can wander without an itinerary, stumble across hidden courtyards and cafés, and never feel rushed.
Free Wi-Fi is widely available throughout the city, particularly in hotels, cafés and restaurants, making it easy to stay connected while exploring.
With the practicalities out of the way, it was time to discover what Bratislava had to offer.
Getting there
Getting to Bratislava from the UK is straightforward, even if Slovakia’s capital often flies a little under the radar compared with some of Europe’s better-known city break destinations.
A number of airlines operate direct flights from the UK, making it possible to leave Britain in the morning and be wandering around Bratislava’s charming Old Town by lunchtime.
For most travellers, Ryanair offers the greatest number of direct connections. The airline operates services from London Stansted, while routes from Manchester, Edinburgh and other regional airports are also available at various points throughout the year.
Depending on the season and airline schedules, travellers may also find flights operated by Wizz Air and other carriers from airports across the UK.
Flight times are relatively short, typically taking around two hours and fifteen minutes from London, making Bratislava an excellent choice for a long weekend or short city break.
For this particular trip, we flew direct from London Stansted with Ryanair. The total return cost for two people came to just £110.12, which represented excellent value.
As with all low-cost airlines, fares fluctuate considerably depending on when you book, the season and whether you’re travelling during school holidays. Prices today are likely to be somewhat higher than when we travelled.
Officially known as M. R. Štefánik Airport, Bratislava Airport is Slovakia’s largest international airport and serves as the country’s main aviation gateway. Located approximately nine kilometres north east of the city centre, it is close enough that reaching central Bratislava is quick and straightforward once you’ve landed.
Despite serving a growing number of destinations across Europe, Bratislava Airport remains refreshingly easy to navigate.
Unlike some of Europe’s sprawling mega airports, arrivals, baggage reclaim and departures are all located within a single passenger terminal complex, meaning you can usually get from aircraft door to airport exit in a relatively short space of time. The airport’s passenger facilities are spread across interconnected terminal buildings that function as one unified passenger terminal.
The airport itself has two runways, allowing it to handle everything from short haul budget airlines to larger aircraft operating longer routes. The main runway stretches for more than three kilometres and is capable of accommodating aircraft of all sizes.
Passenger numbers have grown significantly in recent years. In 2025, Bratislava Airport handled a record 2.44 million passengers, making it the busiest year in the airport’s history and highlighting its growing importance as a gateway to both Slovakia and neighbouring Austria.
One of the more interesting things about Bratislava Airport is its location. While it primarily serves Slovakia’s capital, it also acts as an alternative airport for Vienna (where we will focus on later in this blog), which lies only around 60km away across the Austrian border. This gives visitors the unusual opportunity to arrive in one country while remaining within easy reach of another.
Facilities at the airport include cafés, restaurants, duty free shopping, car hire desks, currency exchange services and public transport connections into the city. Everything felt efficient during our visit, allowing us to begin exploring Bratislava without any unnecessary delays.
For a capital city airport, it is pleasantly uncomplicated. Within a short time of landing, we were on our way towards the city centre and ready to discover what the Slovakian capital had to offer.
Flying into Bratislava International Airport
Where to stay
For our three nights in Bratislava, we decided to go for an Airbnb rather than a traditional hotel, staying at the Comfortable Loft in the Bratislava City Center on Klariská Street. The apartment was at Klariská 325/8, 811 03 Bratislava, right in the heart of the city’s historic Old Town.
Klariská is one of those streets where you barely need to think about transport because so much of Bratislava is right outside your door. The street takes its name from the Gothic Church of the Poor Clares and the former monastery of the same name, and the surrounding area is packed with historic buildings, cafés and restaurants.
The Old Town forms the historic centre of Bratislava, with many of its most important sights concentrated within a relatively small area.
The location was particularly useful for sightseeing. Michael’s Gate is only a few minutes away on foot, while the main squares and pedestrianised streets of the Old Town are also close by. Bratislava Castle is less than a kilometre away, while the Danube and the UFO Observation Deck are within walking distance too.
The apartment itself offered more space and independence than you would normally get from a hotel room, with the added advantage of having your own kitchen and living space. That made it a good option for a short city break where we could come and go as we pleased rather than being tied to hotel facilities or breakfast times.
We paid £198.14 for the three night stay, which worked out at around £66 per night. As this was a booking we made for our own trip, that is the actual price we paid rather than a current guide price, and Airbnb rates will naturally vary depending on the dates and availability.
For me, the biggest selling point was the location. Staying in this AirBnB meant we were already in the middle of the historic city whenever we stepped outside, with the majority of Bratislava’s sights easily reachable on foot.
Looking down at the living area in the AirBnB from the top of the stairs
The bedroom is in an open area at the top of the stairs and has a bathroom leading off from it
Looking up at the bedroom area at the top of the stairs and the kitchen from the open plan living space
Getting around
One of the things I quickly discovered about Bratislava is that it is an incredibly easy city to navigate.
Whether you’re arriving from the airport, exploring the historic centre on foot or even heading across the border to Austria for the day, getting around is generally straightforward and affordable.
For our airport transfers, we used Hoppa, which allowed us to pre-book a private return transfer between Bratislava Airport and our accommodation in the city centre.
The service cost £31.93 in total for two passengers and included a direct door-to-door journey with no additional stops along the way and only taking around 30 minutes, although this will naturally vary depending on traffic conditions.
After a short flight, there is something reassuring about knowing a driver will be waiting for you rather than having to work out local public transport or negotiate taxi fares. For us, the transfer was smooth, convenient and removed any stress from arriving in a new city.
Once you’re in the city centre, the good news is that Bratislava is one of the most walkable capital cities in Europe.
Unlike some capitals where attractions are spread across vast distances, many of Bratislava’s main sights are concentrated within and around the compact Old Town. During our stay, we were able to reach most places simply by walking. Michael’s Gate, the Main Square, Bratislava Castle, the Blue Church, St Martin’s Cathedral and the Danube waterfront are all within relatively easy walking distance of one another.
In many ways, exploring on foot is the best way to experience Bratislava. The city’s narrow medieval streets, hidden courtyards and historic buildings are often missed if you rush from place to place on public transport. Walking also allows you to stumble across the quirky statues and unexpected viewpoints that have become part of Bratislava’s charm.
Walking around the streets of Bratislava is easy to do
One of the easiest ways to add another capital city to your trip is to take the train from Bratislava Hlavná Stanica to Wien Hauptbahnhof, with the journey taking around an hour each way. It is one of the simplest international day trips you’ll find anywhere in Europe and allows you to experience two very different capital cities during the same holiday.
A standard round-trip ticket costs around €19 (about £16) using the special cross-border excursion fares, making it a relatively inexpensive way to spend a day in Vienna.
Tickets can be purchased in advance through sites such as Omio or simply bought at Bratislava’s main railway station before departure. With regular services operating throughout the day, booking ahead isn’t usually necessary unless you prefer to have everything organised before travelling.
The journey itself is straightforward. Board at Bratislava Hlavná Stanica, settle into your seat and enjoy the ride through the Slovak and Austrian countryside.
Roughly an hour later you’ll arrive at Wien Hauptbahnhof, Vienna’s main railway station, from where the Austrian capital’s famous palaces, museums and historic streets are easily accessible.
An example of the trains you can catch between Bratislava and Vienna
Top sites
One of the best ways I find to get your bearings quickly in a new city is to take a free walking tour – or, in Bratislava’s case, two.
Be Free Tours offers tours that provide a useful introduction to the city’s history and major sights, while also giving you some of the stories and context that you might miss if you simply explored on your own. I took both the Original Free Walking Tour and Communist Free Walking Tour.
The Original Free Walking Tour is a two-and-a-half-hour tour in English, beginning at Hviezdoslavovo Square, beside the statue of Hviezdoslav, next to the Carlton Hotel and US Embassy.
To find the guide, look out for the orange Be Free Tours ‘Free Tour’ sign. The route takes in many of Bratislava’s best-known sights, including the Slovak National Theatre, Reduta, Čumil – the famous ‘Man at Work’ statue – Schöne Náci, Main Square, the Old Town Hall, St Michael’s Gate, Grassalkovich Palace and SNP Square.
It also goes beyond the obvious tourist sights to include the Blue Church, Comenius University and the site of the 1968 Soviet occupation. Along the way, the guides cover Slovakia’s history, culture, traditions and current affairs, putting the sights into a wider context.
The Communist Free Walking Tour is another two-and-a-half hour English-language tour, also starting at Hviezdoslavovo Square by the Hviezdoslav statue.
This one takes you away from the more traditional tourist sights and looks at what life was like in socialist Czechoslovakia, including the political and social impact of the Communist regime on everyday Slovaks.
This route includes the UFO Bridge, Slovak National Uprising Square, Petržalka, Freedom Square, Socialist Realism statues, the former Pioneers’ Headquarters, the Pyramid Radio Station and examples of socialist artwork and propaganda. It is particularly interesting if, like me, you enjoy finding out what a city was like beyond its postcard image.
Despite the name, ‘free’ doesn’t mean that the guides don’t get paid.
Be Free Tours operates on a tips-only, pay-what-you-wish basis, so there is no compulsory ticket price. You take the tour and then decide how much you think it was worth based on your experience. The company says this model is intended to motivate its guides to provide entertaining, high-quality tours. The tours are designed for solo travellers and small groups, with groups of more than eight required to arrange a private tour in advance
The tours start at Hviezdoslavovo Square where you’ll find these charming fountains
The obligatory group photo after one of the walking tours
The next stop during a visit to Bratislava should be to see the Čumil Statue.
Čumil is one of the most recognisable sights in Bratislava and one of those attractions that is almost impossible to walk past without stopping for a photograph. The bronze statue, created by Slovak sculptor Viktor Hulík in 1997, depicts a sewer worker leaning out of a manhole cover and looking up at the people passing above him.
His name roughly translates as ‘Watcher’ or ‘Rubberneck’, although the statue is also commonly known as ‘Man at Work’. It quickly became one of the symbols of Bratislava and is now said to be the city’s most photographed statue.
You’ll find Čumil in the heart of Bratislava’s Old Town, at the corner of Panská Street and Rybárska brána, just a short walk from the Main Square and other central sights.
The statue is actually set into the pavement, so it’s easy to miss if you’re not looking down – although the crowds of people taking photographs usually give away its location. There is also a local tradition that touching Čumil’s cap brings good luck, which explains why the top of his hat has become noticeably worn over the years.
There is no entrance fee to see Čumil, as the statue stands outdoors in a public pedestrian area and can be visited at any time. It’s therefore an easy sight to add to a walk around the Old Town, and you only need a few minutes to see it and take a photograph.
Getting down with the man in the street
Vienna
Vienna’s historic centre is easily accessible after arriving and emerging from the train station, meaning you can quickly swap the compact streets of Bratislava for grand palaces, imposing boulevards and some of Europe’s most recognisable historic buildings.
And there is plenty of history waiting for you. Vienna’s story stretches back to Roman times, when Vindobona was established as a military camp, before the House of Habsburg began its rule in the city in 1282.
The Habsburgs would go on to make Vienna the centre of a vast European empire, with the Hofburg serving as their principal residence and seat of power for centuries. Even today, the imperial legacy is difficult to escape, with palaces, churches and grand public buildings dominating much of the city centre.
Vienna’s historic centre also reflects several different periods of its past. Medieval landmarks such as St Stephen’s Cathedral sit alongside the Baroque grandeur of the Hofburg, while the Ringstrasse was created in the nineteenth century as the city expanded beyond its old fortifications. The result is a city where centuries of history are packed into a relatively compact area – and much of it can be explored on foot.
For me, that is what makes the Bratislava–Vienna train journey such an appealing addition to a trip to Slovakia. In little more than an hour, you can cross an international border and go from one former Habsburg city to another, but the experience of the two is noticeably different.
Vienna is bigger, grander and unmistakably imperial, making it an easy choice for a full day of sightseeing before catching the train back to Bratislava.
The historic streets of Vienna frequently echo with the rhythmic clip-clop of traditional horse-drawn carriages
The buildings in Vienna are extremely grand in scale and appearance
Outside one of Vienna’s many impressive church buildings
In similar fashion to Bratislava, a great way to make the most of a day in Vienna is to join a free walking tour, and during my visit I took the English-language tour run by Good Vienna Tours.
It was a useful way to see some of the city’s most important sights while also learning more about the history behind them, particularly given that there is so much to take in during a relatively short day trip from Bratislava.
The tour lasted around two-and-a-half hours and began at Albertinaplatz, beside the Albrechtsbrunnen fountain and directly in front of the Albertina. The guide was easy to spot, with the company’s distinctive green umbrella marking the meeting point.
From Albertinaplatz, the tour took us through Vienna’s historic centre, passing many of the landmarks mentioned above. The route included the Vienna State Opera, Hofburg Palace, the Jewish Quarter and St Stephen’s Cathedral, with the guide providing stories and anecdotes about Vienna’s rulers, famous residents, traditions and more unusual moments from the city’s history.
Vienna on Google Maps
Vienna is a busy city with lots going on at all times
No trip to Vienna is complete without sampling some of it’s magnificent cakes and hot drinks
The tour was focused on seeing the sights from the outside rather than going inside the attractions, which worked well for a day trip as it meant we could cover a lot of ground without spending hours inside individual museums or palaces. The tour eventually finished close to Schwedenplatz, leaving plenty of time to continue exploring Vienna independently.
As mentioned earlier, despite being called a free walking tour, because there is no fixed admission price, Good Vienna Tours guides operate on a tips-only basis.
I always think this is a good way to explore a city, particularly when you’re visiting somewhere for the first time, as you get the benefit of a knowledgeable local guide without having to commit to an expensive organised excursion. For a day trip from Bratislava, this two-and-a-half hour tour leaves plenty of time to explore some of Vienna’s other sights afterwards before heading back to the train station.
Where to avoid
Bratislava is generally a straightforward city to explore, and we found it easy to get around on foot. The city’s official tourism organisation says that crime levels are relatively low compared with other large cities, and there are no areas of the city that it considers to be particularly dangerous.
The central tourist areas are also generally well lit and covered by CCTV. That doesn’t mean you should switch off completely, though. Pickpocketing is an issue, particularly in busy parts of the Old Town and on public transport, while the UK government’s current travel advice specifically warns about pickpockets and bag snatching in Bratislava’s main tourist areas. Keeping your belongings secure and being a little more alert in crowded places is therefore sensible.
The Old Town nightlife also warrants a little common sense. The FCDO warns about drink spiking and theft around some clubs in the Old Town pedestrian area, as well as reports of tourists being charged excessive prices for drinks.
It recommends checking prices before ordering and keeping your drink in sight. Public drinking is also prohibited in Bratislava’s Old Town, with fines possible for those who ignore the rules. In other words, Bratislava isn’t somewhere I’d describe as a city to avoid, but the usual precautions you’d take in any European capital are still worthwhile, particularly after dark.
Walking down the quiet streets of Bratislava at night
One place I would exercise a little more caution is the Most SNP, better known to visitors as the UFO Bridge. This striking single-pylon suspension bridge crosses the Danube and has become one of Bratislava’s most recognisable landmarks.
It was built between 1967 and 1972 and is particularly distinctive because of the UFO-shaped restaurant and observation deck perched high on its pylon. The observation deck sits around 95m above the ground and offers 360-degree views across Bratislava and the surrounding area.
The reason I wouldn’t go seeking this out isn’t because it is an inherently dangerous attraction. Rather, it is a busy piece of transport infrastructure, and I wouldn’t recommend treating the road itself as somewhere to wander around casually.
If you want to experience the bridge, stick to the designated pedestrian route and use the UFO observation deck if you want the views. The bridge is also a particularly striking sight from the Danube and Bratislava’s Old Town, so you don’t necessarily need to be on it to appreciate it.
If you’re looking for something a little more adventurous, the UFO also offers a Skywalk around the outside of the observation deck. This involves walking around the 85-metre-high structure while secured by two steel ropes and is a very different experience from simply enjoying the view from inside. It is a paid activity, currently listed at €45 per person, and naturally isn’t something I’d recommend to anyone uncomfortable with heights.
The UFO Bridge can be spotted from many places within the city
It cuts quite an impressive figure – like something out of The War of the Worlds – when the backdrop is foggy
While not so much to be avoided, per se, going right up to the bridge itself isn’t a vital component to seeing it
Great places to eat
One of the restaurants I particularly enjoyed in Bratislava was Modrá Hviezda also know as Blue Star.
This Slovak restaurant tucked away on Beblavého 14, in the pedestrianised historic part of the Old Town, directly beneath Bratislava Castle. The location makes it a particularly good choice if you’re exploring the castle and surrounding streets, with the restaurant occupying a historic building that adds to the atmosphere.
The food is traditional Slovak cuisine, with the menu putting plenty of emphasis on hearty dishes and local ingredients. There are several Slovak classics, including bryndzové halušky – potato dumplings with sheep’s cheese – as well as roast duck with red cabbage and potato lokše, venison goulash with rosemary and cranberries, rabbit in red wine with wild mushrooms and pork dishes.
There are also fish, chicken and vegetarian options, so there is more choice than just traditional meat-heavy Slovak fare.
Prices are towards the upper end of what you might pay for a casual meal in Bratislava, but I think they are reasonable for the setting and style of restaurant. Main courses currently range from around €18.90 for bryndzové halušky to €31.90 for the chef’s venison steak, with dishes such as roast duck at €24.90 and venison goulash at €22.50.
Starters are generally around €7.50–€19.90, while desserts are €7.50. There is also a 10% service charge added to the bill for the whole staff.
The restaurant has been family-run since 2009, with the family involved in both the front and back of house, and its stated approach is based around traditional cooking, quality ingredients and a personal service. If you’re looking for somewhere to experience Slovak food in a memorable setting, Modrá Hviezda is well worth the trip.
The food at Modrá Hviezda is enjoyable and filling
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Budapest feels like a city that was designed to impress. From the moment you see the Danube cutting through its centre, flanked by grand palaces, church spires and some of Europe’s most striking architecture, it’s easy to understand why Hungary’s capital is often regarded as one of the continent’s most beautiful cities.
It’s that split that makes Budapest particularly unique given that it once was two separate cities!
On one side of the Danube sits hilly, elegant Buda, home to castles, palaces and some of the city’s finest viewpoints. On the other lies Pest, flatter, busier and filled with grand boulevards, bustling squares and much of the city’s commercial and cultural life. The two were officially united in 1873, creating the city we know today.
two were officially united in 1873, creating the city we know today.
The result is a destination that feels as though it has two distinct personalities. One moment you’re wandering through medieval streets beneath Buda Castle, the next you’re standing in front of the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building or exploring one of the city’s famous ruin bars. Few European capitals offer such a varied blend of history, culture and scenery.
My visit took place in December, a time when Budapest feels particularly magical. Christmas markets fill the city’s squares, festive lights illuminate the grand avenues and the thermal baths become even more inviting as temperatures fall.
It proved to be the perfect backdrop for exploring a city that has endured empires, revolutions and world wars, yet remains one of Europe’s most beautiful capitals.
So what should first-time visitors to Budapest know before setting off for Hungary’s fascinating capital?
The city of Budapest is split between Bupa on one side of the river and Pest on the other
The first thing to understand is that Budapest is far larger than many people expect. While the main attractions are relatively well connected, the city stretches across both sides of the Danube and rewards visitors who allow themselves plenty of time to explore beyond the obvious landmarks.
The next thing to consider is the weather.
Summer is undoubtedly one of the most popular times to visit Budapest. Between June and August, daytime temperatures typically range from 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F), with long sunny days perfect for sightseeing, river cruises and enjoying the city’s famous outdoor cafés. July and August can occasionally be even hotter, with temperatures pushing beyond 35°C during heatwaves.
December, however, offers a very different experience. During the month I visited, average daytime temperatures generally hovered between 3°C and 5°C (37°F to 41°F), while overnight temperatures regularly dropped below freezing.
Snow is possible, although not guaranteed, and the cold air rolling off the Danube can make it feel even chillier. Fortunately, Budapest’s Christmas markets, cosy cafés and thermal baths provide plenty of opportunities to warm up between sightseeing stops.
As a result, visitors travelling during winter should pack accordingly. A warm coat, gloves and comfortable footwear are highly recommended, particularly if you plan on spending long periods exploring the city on foot.
Budapest on Google Maps
The next thing to consider is the currency. Hungary remains outside the Eurozone and uses the Hungarian Forint (HUF).
At the time of writing, £1 is worth approximately 450 Hungarian Forint, although exchange rates naturally fluctuate. While Hungary is generally more affordable than many Western European destinations, prices in central Budapest have risen in recent years due to its popularity with international tourists.
The good news is that Budapest is extremely card-friendly. Credit and debit cards are accepted almost everywhere, including restaurants, cafés, attractions, public transport ticket machines and even many market stalls. During my visit, there were very few occasions where carrying cash felt necessary.
For UK travellers, Budapest is an exceptionally easy city to visit. Hungary is one hour ahead of the UK, meaning there is virtually no time difference to worry about. Direct flights from London typically take around two and a half hours, making Budapest an ideal destination for a long weekend or short city break.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to think about power sockets. Hungary uses Type C and Type F power sockets, operating at a standard voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz.
As with most continental European countries, UK travellers will need a suitable travel adapter. No voltage converter is required, however, as Hungary uses the same voltage as the UK.
Language is another area where visitors generally have little difficulty. Hungarian is the official language and is famously one of Europe’s most unique languages, belonging to the Finno-Ugric family rather than the Germanic, Romance or Slavic language groups that dominate much of the continent.
Fortunately, English is widely spoken throughout Budapest, particularly within hotels, restaurants, bars and tourist attractions. Most visitors will encounter very few communication difficulties during their stay.
That said, locals always appreciate visitors making an effort. “Hello” in Hungarian is Szia, while “thank you” is Köszönöm. Even learning these simple phrases can often result in a friendly smile.
One final thing worth considering is staying connected. Free Wi-Fi is widely available throughout Budapest in hotels, cafés, restaurants and public spaces. Depending on your mobile provider, roaming charges may apply, so it is worth checking before travelling.
Many visitors now choose to use an eSIM, allowing them to stay connected throughout their trip without needing to change physical SIM cards.
With those essentials covered, all that remained was to discover what makes Budapest so special.
Getting there
Getting to Budapest from the UK is wonderfully straightforward. Hungary’s capital has become one of Europe’s most popular city break destinations and, as a result, enjoys excellent air links with Britain throughout the year.
Travellers from the UK have several options when it comes to reaching Budapest. Ryanair operates flights from London Stansted, while Wizz Air serves Budapest from both London Luton and London Gatwick. British Airways also offers services from London Heathrow for those looking for a more traditional full service carrier.
Depending on where you live, there are often additional departures available from regional airports such as Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Bristol, making Budapest accessible from almost every corner of the UK.
Flight times are relatively short, typically taking around two hours and thirty minutes from London.
For this trip, we chose to fly direct from London Stansted with Ryanair. The total return fare for two people came to just £103.96, which represented excellent value for an international city break.
As with any airline, fares can vary significantly depending on the season, how far in advance you book and whether you’re travelling during peak holiday periods, so prices today are likely to be somewhat higher than when we visited.
Our arrival point was Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport, named after the renowned Hungarian composer Franz Liszt. Located approximately 16km south east of Budapest’s city centre, it serves as Hungary’s largest and busiest airport and acts as the country’s principal international gateway.
The airport handled more than 19.6 million passengers during 2025, making it the busiest year in its history and highlighting Budapest’s growing popularity as both a tourist destination and business hub.
Despite those impressive passenger numbers, Budapest Airport remains relatively easy to navigate. Passenger operations are centred around two terminals, Terminal 2A and Terminal 2B, which are connected and function as a single integrated terminal complex. This makes moving through arrivals, departures and security far more straightforward than at many of Europe’s larger airports.
The airport is served by two runways, allowing it to handle a substantial volume of both passenger and cargo traffic throughout the year. Combined with ongoing expansion plans, Budapest Airport continues to strengthen its position as one of Central Europe’s most important aviation hubs.
Facilities include cafés, restaurants, duty free shopping, car hire desks, currency exchange services and public transport connections into the city. During our visit, immigration was efficient, allowing us to begin exploring Budapest without any unnecessary delays.
For a capital city airport handling almost 20 million passengers a year, it felt remarkably well organised. Within a short time of landing, we were making our way towards the banks of the Danube and beginning our Hungarian adventure.
Where to stay
For our stay in Budapest, we chose Hotel Palazzo Zichy, a four star hotel at Lőrinc Pap tér 2, 1088 Budapest.
It sits in the Palace District, just east of the city centre, an area known for its grand historic buildings and close to several of Budapest’s main attractions.
The hotel itself occupies a former neo Baroque palace built for Count Nándor Zichy and retains some of the character of the original building, including its impressive glass roof over the entrance.
The location worked well for exploring Budapest, with the Hungarian National Museum, Great Market Hall, Great Synagogue and Holocaust Memorial Centre all within easy reach. The hotel is also less than 3km from Budapest Nyugati railway station, while the city centre is close enough to explore on foot or by public transport.
The hotel has 80 rooms, with Deluxe, Deluxe rooms overlooking the square and Junior Suites among the options. Our booking was for a superior double or twin room with breakfast, with free Wi Fi and access to the hotel’s sauna and fitness facilities included. The rooms are modern in style and have air conditioning, a minibar, safe, hairdryer, television and Wi-Fi.
Our three night stay, cost £182.60 for the room, including breakfast for two. There was also a £16.60 room discount, bringing the accommodation cost down to £166.00.
Looking at the hotel today, prices will naturally be considerably different, particularly depending on the season and room type, so our price is best viewed as a record of what we paid rather than a guide to current rates.
The hotel remains a four star property, with breakfast served from 7am to 10:30am on weekdays and until 11am at weekends, as well as a wellness area with a sauna and gym.
For a Budapest city break, Palazzo Zichy gives you a nice balance between being close to the main sights and staying somewhere with a bit more character than a standard modern chain hotel.
View from the window of the room at the courtyard in front of Hotel Palazzo Zichy
Inside a room at Palazzo Zichy
Getting around
Budapest is a city that lends itself well to exploration. While it is one of the larger capitals in Central Europe, many of its most famous landmarks are concentrated along the banks of the Danube, making it easy to combine sightseeing with simply wandering through the streets and soaking up the atmosphere.
Walking is often the best way to experience the city. Whether you’re strolling along the Danube promenade, crossing the iconic Chain Bridge or exploring the elegant streets around St Stephen’s Basilica and the Hungarian Parliament Building, Budapest rewards those who take their time. The city is packed with impressive architecture, grand boulevards and hidden courtyards, many of which are best discovered on foot rather than through the window of a bus or taxi.
Of course, Budapest is far too large to walk everywhere, and that’s where the city’s excellent public transport network comes into its own.
Many of the main attractions are served by tram routes, making them particularly useful for visitors. One of the most famous routes is Tram 2, which runs alongside the Danube and provides fantastic views of landmarks including the Parliament Building, Buda Castle and several of the city’s historic bridges.
Tickets are inexpensive by UK standards. A single tram ticket costs 500 HUF (about £1.05) if purchased in advance, or 700 HUF (about £1.45) if bought on board. Tickets can be purchased from machines at tram stops, Metro stations and other transport hubs throughout the city. Trams in Budapest run from 4:30am to 11pm with the most important lines running every five to 10 minutes.
We found the tram network clean, reliable and straightforward to use, even as first-time visitors. Combined with walking, it provided everything we needed to explore Budapest comfortably and see the very best of this beautiful city.
Trams like this one service large parts of Budapest
Walking the streets of Budapest is both easy and the best way to see the whole city
Top sites
One of the most moving sights in Budapest is the Shoes on the Danube Bank Bank, a Holocaust memorial on the Pest side of the Danube, around 300m south of the Hungarian Parliament Building.
At first glance, it is remarkably simple, consisting of 60 pairs of cast iron shoes fixed to the stone embankment. There are men’s boots, women’s shoes and children’s footwear, all based on styles from the 1940s. The memorial was created by filmmaker Can Togay and sculptor Gyula Pauer and was unveiled on 16 April 2005.
The shoes commemorate Jewish people and other victims who were murdered along the Danube by members of the Arrow Cross Party during the final months of the Second World War. Victims were ordered to remove their shoes before being shot at the river’s edge, with their bodies falling into the Danube and being carried away by the current. Shoes were valuable at the time and could be taken and sold, which is why the memorial uses empty footwear to represent the people who were killed. The memorial’s plaques identify the victims as people shot into the Danube by Arrow Cross militiamen during 1944 and 1945.
There is no entrance fee to visit the Shoes on the Danube Bank, as the memorial sits outside on the public riverside promenade and can be visited at any time. It only takes a few minutes to see, although I would allow longer if you want to take in the memorial properly. Its location also makes it easy to combine with other Budapest sights, particularly the Hungarian Parliament, the Danube Promenade and Chain Bridge. Visitors often leave flowers, candles or small stones in the shoes as a mark of remembrance.
What makes the memorial particularly powerful is its simplicity. There are no large statues or imposing buildings, just a line of ordinary shoes beside the river, representing the people who were forced to leave them behind. Standing there also gives you one of the city’s great views across the Danube towards Buda, but this is a place where the historical significance should take precedence over the scenery.
The shoes are a poignant memorial to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust
People leave flowers as symbols of remembrance next to the shoes
The Hungarian Parliament Building, or Országház, is arguably the most recognisable building in Budapest and one of the city’s unmissable sights. Standing on Kossuth Square on the Pest side of the Danube, its Gothic Revival architecture dominates the riverfront, with its numerous spires and huge central dome creating one of the most impressive cityscapes in Europe. Construction began in 1885, following a competition won by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl, and the building was completed in 1904. It remains the seat of Hungary’s National Assembly and forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed landscape along the banks of the Danube.
The scale of the building is difficult to appreciate until you’re standing in front of it. Parliament contains 691 rooms, 28 entrances and 10 courtyards, while its central dome reaches 96m high. The exterior is decorated with 88 statues representing Hungarian rulers, military leaders and historical figures, while the interior features elaborate frescoes, stained glass, sculptures and extensive gold decoration.
It is also possible to go inside Parliament as part of an organised guided tour, which lasts around 45 minutes – although this is not something we did. The route I’m led to believe takes visitors up the impressive Grand Stairway and into the Dome Hall, where the Holy Crown of Hungary and other coronation insignia are displayed. You also get to see some of the building’s richly decorated interiors and the former Upper House chamber. Tours are available in several languages, including English, although Parliament remains a working political building and visits can occasionally be altered or cancelled because of parliamentary or state events.
Even if you don’t go inside, Parliament is impossible to miss when exploring Budapest. The riverside promenade provides an excellent view of the building, while the opposite bank around Buda Castle and Fisherman’s Bastion offers some of the best panoramic views of its entire façade.
I would also recommend visiting Kossuth Square itself, where the scale of the building becomes even more apparent. Whether you admire it from across the Danube or take a tour inside, the Hungarian Parliament Building is one of those Budapest sights that should definitely be near the top of your itinerary.
Looking up at the Hungarian Parliament Building on a cold night in Budapest
The building is extremely large and well lit at night
Rudas Thermal Baths is one of Budapest’s most historic thermal baths and a great place to experience one of the traditions the city is famous for. Located on the Buda side of the Danube at Döbrentei tér, close to Elisabeth Bridge, the baths date back around 450 years to the period of Ottoman rule in Hungary.
The centrepiece is the historic Turkish bath, built during the 16th century, with an octagonal thermal pool sitting beneath a 10 metre diameter dome supported by eight pillars. A swimming pool was added much later in 1896, creating the combination of historic and modern bathing facilities that you can experience today.
The Turkish bath is the main reason to visit, with six thermal pools ranging from 16°C to 42°C, allowing you to move between different temperatures while taking in the atmosphere of the historic building. There is also a 20.5m swimming pool, wellness pools, saunas and a rooftop panorama pool heated to 36°C. The latter is particularly appealing because it overlooks the Danube and gives you views across Budapest while you are relaxing in the thermal water.
One thing worth checking before visiting is the bathing schedule, as access to the historic Turkish bath is not always mixed during the week. On Tuesdays it is reserved for women, while Wednesdays are reserved for men, with mixed bathing in swimsuits available at certain other times.
The entire complex is open every day, although opening hours vary, and visitors must be at least 14 years old. Rudas also offers night bathing on Friday and Saturday evenings from 10pm until 3am, when the Turkish bath, swimming pool, wellness area and rooftop cocktail bar are available for a rather different Budapest experience.
Prices depend on the day and the type of ticket. In 2026, an all zone daily ticket costs 12,000 HUF (about £26) from Monday to Thursday and 15,000 HUF (about £32) from Friday to Sunday, while a fast track ticket costs 15,000 HUF (about £32) or 18,000 HUF (about £39) respectively. Night bathing costs 15,000 HUF (about £32). These prices can change, so it is worth checking the official website before visiting and booking online if you want fast track entry.
Budapest has a rather unusual attraction beneath its streets, with an extensive network of caves running underneath the Buda Hills. For something completely different from the city’s grand buildings, thermal baths and museums, I headed underground for an adventure caving under Budapest at Mátyás-hegyi Cave.
The cave is part of the Pál-völgyi and Mátyás-hegyi cave system and is reached from Szépvölgyi út in Budapest’s II District, close to the Pál-völgyi Cave. Bus 65 runs from Kolosy tér to the Pál-völgyi cave stop, making it relatively straightforward to reach without a car.
This isn’t a conventional cave tour where you simply follow a constructed path and admire the formations. The Mátyás-hegyi Cave adventure takes place in the undeveloped sections of the cave system, meaning there are no walkways or illuminated passages. Instead, you have to climb, crawl and squeeze your way through the cave, with some sections requiring you to move on all fours or even slide along on your stomach. Despite sounding quite extreme, no previous caving experience is required, although you do need to be reasonably fit and have an adventurous attitude. An overall, helmet and headlamp are provided as part of the experience.
The standard cave adventure costs 14,700 HUF (about £31) per person, while the discounted ticket costs 9,000 HUF (about £19) for eligible visitors aged six to 14. There is also an extreme tour costing 19,900 HUF (about £42) per person, although this has a minimum age of 14. The standard adventure is available from school age upwards, with the tour taking place throughout the year by prior arrangement. The cave team also offers a 3.5 hour team building programme for 19,900 HUF (about £42) per person.
It is muddy, physical and occasionally challenging, but that’s exactly what makes it such a great adventure. If you fancy doing something genuinely unusual during a Budapest trip, Mátyás-hegyi Cave is an experience I’d definitely recommend, particularly if you enjoy activities that are a little more adventurous than traditional sightseeing.
The entrance to the caves
Once inside the caves, the ways are narrow and challenging
At times, even with lights, the passage ways are extremely dark
Some of the holes you’ll be expected to get through are very small, awkward in shape and dakr
You will need to do a lot of climbing throughout the caves without ropes and ladders
Where to avoid
Budapest is generally a safe and welcoming city to visit, and I found it easy to explore both on foot and using public transport. Violent crime affecting tourists is relatively uncommon, and the city’s main attractions are well used by visitors throughout the year.
However, as with any major European capital, it pays to remain aware of your surroundings, particularly in crowded tourist areas, on public transport and around major transport hubs. Pickpocketing can occur in busy locations such as Váci Street, around popular attractions, on trams and metro services, and at railway stations, so keeping valuables secure and avoiding displaying expensive items unnecessarily is sensible.
The main area where visitors should exercise a little more caution is Budapest’s nightlife scene. While the vast majority of bars and restaurants are perfectly legitimate, there have been reports over the years of tourists being directed into venues where drinks are significantly overpriced or where unexpected charges are added to bills.
If you’re heading out in the evening, it’s worth checking reviews beforehand, confirming prices before ordering and keeping an eye on your drink. As with any city break destination, it’s also wise not to leave drinks unattended or accept drinks from strangers.
Another thing to bear in mind is that Budapest is a surprisingly large city. While many of the headline attractions are concentrated around the Danube, some outer residential districts have little of interest for tourists and can feel isolated, particularly late at night. They’re not necessarily dangerous, but unless you have a specific reason to visit, most travellers will get far more from spending their time around the historic areas of Buda and Pest, the Castle District, the Parliament area, City Park and the main shopping and restaurant districts.
Overall, Budapest isn’t a city with large areas that visitors need to actively avoid. The usual common-sense precautions that you’d take in London, Paris or Prague are generally sufficient here as well. Keep your belongings secure, be aware of your surroundings in crowded places and do a little research before choosing bars or clubs.
While you’re unlikely to find trouble, it’s always best to be cautious and stay in areas with good street light when out at night
Great places to eat
If you’re looking for something a little different from traditional Hungarian food, Padron is a Spanish tapas restaurant in Budapest’s Palace Quarter, at Horánszky utca 10.
The restaurant describes itself as bringing the atmosphere of a relaxed Spanish neighbourhood bar to Budapest, with a focus on simple food, good wine and sharing dishes rather than formal dining. It is a relatively small and informal place, which gives it a lively atmosphere and makes it feel more like somewhere you’d find in Spain than a conventional restaurant in Budapest.
The menu is packed with Spanish favourites, making it a good place to order several smaller dishes and share them around the table. There are classics such as Padrón peppers, tortilla, croquetas de jamón, patatas bravas and gambas pil pil, alongside Spanish meatballs, beef cheek, Basque sausage and lamb shoulder. There is also a good selection of Spanish cured meats and cheeses, including Iberian ham, Serrano ham and Manchego. For dessert, you can finish with crema catalana or chocolate cake with salted caramel.
Prices are relatively reasonable for a restaurant of this type, particularly because the smaller dishes make it easy to order a selection rather than committing to one large main course. Padrón peppers cost 2,200 HUF (about £4.80), tortilla is 1,400 HUF (about £3.10), croquetas de jamón are 2,000 HUF (about £4.40), while patatas bravas cost 2,200 HUF (about £4.80). If you fancy something more substantial, gambas pil pil are 3,900 HUF (about £8.50), beef cheek is 4,200 HUF (about £9.20) and lamb shoulder is 4,800 HUF (about £10.50). Desserts are also reasonably priced, with crema catalana costing 1,800 HUF (about £3.90) and the chocolate cake 2,200 HUF (about £4.80).
What I particularly liked about Padron was the informal approach to eating. Rather than ordering one large meal, you can gradually build up a selection of tapas, trying different flavours as you go. The restaurant’s own description talks about the table quickly filling with dishes, glasses and different flavours, which is exactly the sort of atmosphere that makes Spanish tapas so enjoyable.
If you fancy taking a break from Hungarian cuisine during your Budapest trip, Padron is a great little restaurant to consider, particularly if you’re travelling with someone and can share several dishes.
Padron is a great choice for an evening meal at affordable prices in Budapest
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Estonia is a country that often feels overlooked on the European map – a small Baltic nation quietly sitting between the influence of Scandinavia and Eastern Europe, yet offering a character entirely of its own.
Beyond its compact size lies a fascinating blend of medieval history, natural beauty, technological innovation, and a culture shaped by centuries of change.
Often overlooked in favour of its larger European neighbours, Estonia quietly delivers an experience that feels both familiar and completely different. Its landscapes stretch from dense forests and peaceful islands to a dramatic Baltic coastline, while its capital, Tallinn, offers one of the most beautifully preserved medieval old towns in the world.
Tallinn feels like a city caught between centuries. Ancient stone walls, winding cobbled streets, and Gothic towers create a fairy-tale atmosphere, while modern cafés, creative neighbourhoods, and a thriving technology scene showcase a country that has embraced the future without forgetting its past.
The city’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is undoubtedly the centrepiece, but Tallinn’s charm extends far beyond its historic heart. From panoramic views across the red rooftops of Toompea Hill to the colourful streets of Kalamaja and the peaceful shores of the Baltic Sea, Estonia’s capital rewards those willing to explore beyond the obvious.
This trip represented another chance to experience a destination that sits slightly outside the usual European city break circuit. While Tallinn has become increasingly popular in recent years, it still retains a sense of discovery – a place where traditions remain strong, and every corner seems to reveal another layer of its story.
The streets of Tallinn during December
So what should first-time visitors to Tallinn consider before setting off to discover one of Europe’s most captivating Baltic capitals?
The first thing to understand about Tallinn is that its greatest attraction is not a single landmark, but the atmosphere created by the city as a whole.
Few European capitals offer such a seamless connection between the past and present. One moment you can be walking beneath centuries-old city walls, and the next you can find yourself inside a modern café surrounded by Estonia’s forward-thinking creative culture.
The next thing to prepare for is the weather. Tallinn experiences a true northern European climate, meaning conditions can vary dramatically throughout the year.
In summer, temperatures are generally comfortable rather than extreme, with average highs around 20°C to 23°C (68°F to 73°F). The long daylight hours make this an ideal time for exploring the city on foot, with evenings remaining bright well into the night.
However, my visit took place in December, when Tallinn transforms into something altogether different. Winter temperatures typically range between -1°C and -5°C (30°F to 23°F), although colder spells can see temperatures fall below -10°C (14°F). Snow is common, and the combination of medieval architecture, Christmas markets, and dark winter evenings gives the city an unmistakable festive charm.
The days are also much shorter during December, with only around six hours of daylight. Warm layers, a good winter coat, gloves, and waterproof footwear are essential companions when exploring Tallinn’s cobbled streets, especially as icy conditions can make some areas slippery.
Tallinn on Google Maps
The next thing to consider is the currency. Estonia uses the Euro (€), making it particularly straightforward for travellers from many European countries. At the time of writing, £1 is worth approximately €1.17.
Unlike some destinations where cash remains essential, Estonia is one of the most digitally advanced societies in the world, and card payments are accepted almost everywhere. Contactless payments are widespread, even for smaller purchases, meaning most visitors can comfortably travel without carrying significant amounts of cash.
That said, having a small amount of cash can still be useful for traditional markets, smaller cafés, or unexpected situations. ATMs are widely available throughout Tallinn, although it is always worth checking with your bank regarding overseas transaction fees.
Tipping in Estonia is not compulsory, but it is appreciated for good service. In restaurants, leaving around 5-10% is a common gesture if you have received particularly good service, although staff do not expect the same tipping culture found in countries such as the United States.
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in Estonia is pleasantly straightforward. The country is two hours ahead of the UK, so there is little disruption to your body clock. Direct flights from London to Tallinn take approximately three hours, making it an accessible destination for a short European escape.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to pack a power plug adapter.
Estonia uses Type C and Type F plug sockets, operating at a standard voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz.
While Estonia is a small country, it has an impressive linguistic identity. The official language is Estonian, a unique Finno-Ugric language that is closely related to Finnish but quite different from the Romance and Germanic languages spoken across much of Europe.
English is widely spoken in Tallinn, particularly among younger generations and those working in hotels, restaurants, and tourist attractions. Many Estonians also speak Russian, a reflection of the country’s complex history and its sizeable Russian-speaking population.
Although visitors can easily get by with English, locals always appreciate travellers making an effort to learn a few words. “Hello” is Tere, “goodbye” is Nägemist, “please” is Palun, and “thank you” is Aitäh. If you’re enjoying an Estonian beer or warming up with a traditional drink during the winter months, you might also want to raise a glass and say Terviseks – cheers.
One final thing to consider is how you’ll stay connected during your time in Tallinn. Estonia has excellent digital infrastructure, and free Wi-Fi is widely available across hotels, cafés, restaurants, and public spaces.
However, having reliable mobile data remains extremely useful when navigating the city’s streets, checking public transport routes, translating signs, and finding hidden corners away from the main tourist areas.
That’s why I recommend purchasing an eSIM before travelling.
Services such as Airalo make the process quick and straightforward. Simply choose an Estonia data package, activate the eSIM before departure, and your phone will automatically connect to a local network when you arrive.
It removes the hassle of searching for a local SIM card and ensures you have reliable internet access throughout your journey.
With these essentials taken care of, I was ready to begin my Estonian adventure – a journey that would take me through the medieval streets, historic landmarks, and winter landscapes of Tallinn, discovering why this remarkable Baltic capital deserves its reputation as one of Europe’s true hidden gems.
Getting there
Reaching Tallinn from the UK is surprisingly easy, especially considering Estonia’s position on the northern edge of Europe. With direct flights available from London throughout the year, the Estonian capital is well within reach for anyone looking for a Baltic-style European escape.
For travellers – like us – departing from the UK, there are several airlines offering direct routes to Tallinn. Ryanair operates flights from London Stansted, while Wizz Air flies from London Luton and airBaltic fly from London Gatwick. There are also options from Jet2.com that fly from Edinburgh, Birmingham, Leeds/Bradford, Manchester and London Gatwick.
For this trip, we flew direct from London Stansted with Ryanair. The total return cost for two people was £201.96, which we felt was a reasonable price for travelling to Estonia in December.
As with any flights, prices can vary considerably depending on the time of year, how early you book, and the departure times you choose, so it is always worth checking different options before making a decision.
The flight from London to Tallinn takes around two hours and fifty minutes, making it a straightforward journey into the Baltic region. It is a route that takes you from the busy surroundings of London to a destination that feels noticeably calmer and more removed from the pace of Western Europe.
Flying with Ryanair was exactly as expected for a short European flight. The process was simple, the journey was comfortable enough, and before long we were descending towards Estonia’s capital, watching the landscape below change as we approached the shores of the Baltic Sea.
Our arrival point was Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport, Estonia’s main international airport and the primary gateway for visitors arriving by air. Named after Estonia’s second president, the airport sits just 4km south-east of Tallinn’s historic centre, making it one of the most conveniently located capital city airports in Europe. The journey into the heart of the city is usually completed within 10-15 minutes, depending on traffic.
Although it serves as Estonia’s largest airport, Tallinn Airport feels refreshingly manageable compared with many of Europe’s larger hubs. Around 3.5 million passengers pass through its terminal each year, yet its compact design means arriving feels calm and straightforward rather than overwhelming.
The airport operates from a single passenger terminal (as well as four cargo terminals) and one main runway measuring 3,480 metres in length. Despite its modest size, it offers everything travellers need, including cafés, restaurants, shops, car hire facilities, and comfortable waiting areas.
One of the advantages of arriving in Tallinn is that the city is never far away. Travellers have several options for making the short journey from the airport into the centre.
Public transport is the most affordable option, with trams and buses providing regular connections between the airport and central Tallinn. The journey takes approximately 15-20 minutes and is an excellent choice for those travelling light.
Taxis are available directly outside the terminal, while ride-hailing apps such as Bolt are widely used across Estonia and provide a convenient alternative. The short distance into the city means fares are generally reasonable, although prices can vary depending on demand and time of day.
For visitors who prefer everything arranged before arrival, private airport transfers can also be booked in advance. This can be particularly appealing during the winter months, when arriving with luggage in freezing temperatures or icy conditions is not always the most enjoyable way to begin a trip.
For our visit there was no overwhelming rush, no lengthy journey into the city, and within minutes of collecting our bags we were already heading towards the city’s medieval streets.
There is a unique excitement that comes with arriving somewhere unfamiliar. As the lights of Tallinn appeared through the winter darkness and the first signs of the city’s historic skyline came into view, the anticipation of exploring Estonia’s remarkable capital truly began.
Where to stay
Finding the right hotel can often make or break a city break, particularly when visiting somewhere in the depths of winter.
For our December trip to Tallinn, we had originally booked what we hoped would be one of the highlights of our stay: a three-night stay in a Superior Double Room at Hotel Schlossle, one of the city’s best-known luxury boutique hotels.
Located in Tallinn’s Old Town, Hotel Schlössle occupies a collection of beautifully restored medieval buildings and enjoys a reputation as one of the most prestigious places to stay in the Estonian capital. We had booked our room several months in advance at a cost of £328.39 for three nights and were looking forward to experiencing one of Tallinn’s most celebrated hotels.
Unfortunately, things did not quite go according to plan.
After arriving at the hotel we tried to check-in at reception, only to be informed that our room was no longer available to us!
Despite having a confirmed reservation that had been booked months earlier, we were told that a large wedding party had effectively taken priority and that there was no room available for us at the property.
To say this came as a shock would be an understatement. There are few things more frustrating when travelling than arriving at your destination after a long journey only to discover that the accommodation you booked no longer exists.
While the staff ultimately arranged alternative accommodation for us, the experience left a very sour taste. In all my years of travelling, it remains one of the most disappointing hotel experiences I have encountered.
Based solely on my personal experience, I would strongly recommend avoiding Hotel Schlössle. Regardless of how attractive a property may look online, having a confirmed reservation cancelled upon arrival because another group has been prioritised is simply not acceptable.
Thankfully, the story does have a happier ending.
As compensation, we were transferred to the nearby Hotel St. Petersbourg, a sister property located just a few minutes’ walk away in the heart of Tallinn’s medieval Old Town.
Situated at Rataskaevu 7, Hotel St. Petersbourg could hardly be better positioned for exploring the city.
The hotel itself occupies a historic building dating back several centuries. Despite its age, the interior successfully blends historic character with modern comforts.
Our room was spacious, warm and extremely comfortable – something that was particularly appreciated given the sub-zero temperatures outside. Traditional furnishings, wooden features and classic décor helped create an atmosphere that felt fitting for Tallinn’s medieval surroundings without feeling dated or old-fashioned.
One of the things I particularly liked was how cosy the hotel felt. Unlike many modern chain hotels, St. Petersbourg has a genuine sense of character.
The hotel also offers complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the property, a 24-hour reception and concierge service, comfortable lounge areas and an on-site restaurant.
Most importantly, the staff were welcoming and professional throughout our stay, helping to rescue what could easily have been a disastrous start to the trip.
In the end, what began as one of the worst hotel check-in experiences I’ve encountered actually led us to discover a property that we thoroughly enjoyed.
Sometimes travel doesn’t go according to plan. Fortunately, this was one of those occasions where the unexpected detour turned out to be the better destination.
The rooms were spacious and comfortable
The bed was extremely comfortable giving you a great night’s sleep
Getting around
One of the many things I loved about Tallinn is just how easy it is to explore even in the depths of winter.
Tallinn is a city that is best experienced on foot. The historic Old Town is remarkably compact, with most of its major attractions located within easy walking distance of one another.
Cobbled streets, medieval alleyways and hidden courtyards seem to appear around every corner, making wandering without a strict plan one of the most rewarding ways to discover the city.
Walking also allows you to fully appreciate what makes Tallinn so special. The city has a wonderfully relaxed feel, and there is something particularly magical about exploring on foot during December, when festive lights illuminate the streets and Christmas market stalls fill Town Hall Square.
Most of the attractions that first-time visitors will want to see are concentrated within the Old Town and the surrounding city centre. During our stay, we found ourselves walking almost everywhere and never felt the need to use any other form of transport.
One thing that often surprises visitors is that Tallinn does not have a metro system. Unlike many European capitals, there are no underground trains running beneath the city. Instead, Tallinn relies on an efficient network of trams, buses and trolleybuses to connect different parts of the city.
For attractions located a little further from the centre, such as Kadriorg Park, the TV Tower or some of Tallinn’s newer neighbourhoods, the tram network is particularly useful. The city’s public transport system is clean, affordable and straightforward to use, making it easy to venture beyond the Old Town if you wish.
That said, unless you are planning to explore beyond the central districts, you may find yourself using public transport far less than expected. Tallinn is simply one of those cities where walking often proves quicker, more enjoyable and more rewarding than any other option.
If you are looking to discover more of Estonia beyond the capital, however, organised day trips can be an excellent choice.
Estonia may be a relatively small country, but it has a surprising amount to offer. While car hire is available, many visitors choose to join guided excursions, which remove the hassle of navigating unfamiliar roads and allow you to focus on enjoying the experience.
A number of tours depart directly from Tallinn, taking visitors to destinations such as Lahemaa National Park, the seaside town of Pärnu and the city of Tartu. Many include transport, guiding and hotel pick-up, making them a convenient way to see more of the country in a limited amount of time.
Ultimately, Tallinn is one of the easiest cities I have visited when it comes to getting around. Comfortable shoes are likely to be your most valuable piece of equipment, and for most visitors, simply wandering the city’s beautiful streets will provide the best introduction to Estonia’s captivating capital.
The streets are often quiet even in the city centre; especially in the winter months
Top sites
If there is one place that defines Tallinn, it is undoubtedly Tallinn Old Town . Sitting at the heart of Estonia’s capital, this remarkably well-preserved medieval quarter is one of the finest in Europe and has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.
More than simply a collection of historic buildings, Tallinn Old Town feels like stepping into a living piece of history, where centuries-old churches, merchant houses and defensive walls remain part of everyday life.
Located in the centre of the city, the Old Town is divided into two distinct areas. The Lower Town was historically home to merchants and craftsmen, while Toompea Hill above served as the seat of power for rulers and nobility. Together they create a maze of cobbled streets, hidden courtyards, medieval towers and picturesque squares that are a joy to explore on foot.
What struck me most during my visit was just how authentic it all felt. Many European cities have historic centres, but Tallinn’s Old Town retains a remarkable sense of continuity.
The city walls still wrap around much of the district while church spires rise above the rooftops. Even in December, when temperatures hovered around freezing, there was a wonderful atmosphere as people wandered between cafés, restaurants and Christmas market stalls beneath strings of festive lights.
The heart of the Old Town is Raekoja plats, or Town Hall Square, which has served as Tallinn’s marketplace and civic centre since medieval times. Surrounded by colourful merchant buildings and dominated by the striking Gothic Town Hall, it remains the focal point of life in the Old Town today just as it was hundreds of years ago.
One of the best ways to experience Tallinn Old Town is simply to wander without a plan. Some of my favourite moments came from turning down narrow lanes, discovering hidden archways and stumbling across viewpoints overlooking the sea of red rooftops below. It is compact enough to explore comfortably on foot, yet contains enough history and character to keep you occupied for hours.
The Town Hall Square is at the heart of the city
A large part of the reason for my visit to Tallinn taking place in December was so I could see the Tallinn Christmas market.
Held annually in Raekoja plats, the Town Hall Square at the centre of the Old Town, the market transforms one of Europe’s finest medieval squares into a festive winter wonderland. Surrounded by Gothic buildings and illuminated by thousands of lights, it feels like the setting of a Christmas film rather than the centre of a capital city.
At the centre of the market stands a towering Christmas tree, continuing a tradition that Tallinn proudly claims dates back to 1441, when the Brotherhood of the Blackheads erected what is believed to have been the world’s first public Christmas tree in the square. Whether that claim is entirely true or not, there is no denying that the tree provides a spectacular focal point for the market.
The market itself is made up of dozens of wooden stalls selling a mixture of traditional Estonian food, handmade gifts and festive decorations. Visitors can browse everything from woollen hats, scarves and gloves to locally produced jewellery, wooden crafts and Christmas ornaments. Many of the stalls showcase products made by Estonian artisans, making them ideal places to pick up souvenirs that feel a little more authentic than the usual tourist-shop offerings.
Food is also a major part of the experience. The aroma of mulled wine drifts through the square, while stalls serve traditional Estonian winter favourites including sausages, roasted nuts, gingerbread and a variety of hearty local dishes designed to keep the cold at bay. Even if you are not particularly hungry, it is difficult to walk through the market without being tempted by something.
When I visited, snow dusted many of the rooftops surrounding the square, adding even more atmosphere to an already magical setting. The combination of medieval architecture, festive lights, Christmas music and the smell of seasonal food created exactly the kind of Christmas market experience that many cities try to replicate but few manage to achieve.
What I particularly liked was that the market never felt detached from the city around it. Step away from the stalls and you immediately find yourself back among the cobbled streets, historic churches and ancient walls of the Old Town. The market feels like a natural extension of Tallinn itself rather than a temporary attraction.
For anyone visiting Estonia during the festive season, I would consider the Tallinn Christmas Market an absolute must-see.
The Tallinn Christmas Market is a wonderful way to get into the festive spirit
One of the most recognisable landmarks in Tallinn’s Old Town is Kiek in de Kök, a towering medieval fortification that has stood watch over the city for more than five centuries.
Located on Komandandi tee 2, just a short walk from Toompea Hill and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the imposing structure forms part of Tallinn’s extensive defensive system and remains one of the best-known symbols of the city’s medieval past.
The unusual name translates roughly as “peek into the kitchen”. According to local legend, the tower was so tall that guards stationed at the top could supposedly look down into the kitchens of houses within the city walls. Whether that was ever truly possible is debatable, but the name has certainly endured.
The tower was originally completed in the late 15th century and became one of the most important defensive structures protecting Tallinn from attack. Its walls are several metres thick and, at the time, it represented some of the most advanced military architecture in northern Europe.
Today, Kiek in de Kök forms the centrepiece of a fortifications museum complex stretching for more than 500 metres and incorporating several medieval towers, city walls and underground bastion passages. Visitors who venture inside can explore exhibitions covering Tallinn’s military history, view historic weapons and armour, and enjoy panoramic views across the rooftops of the Old Town.
During my visit, however, I only admired Kiek in de Kök from the outside. Standing in the courtyard below, the sheer scale of the tower was immediately impressive. Its enormous circular stone walls rise dramatically above the surrounding buildings, giving a real sense of how formidable Tallinn’s defences must once have appeared to any approaching enemy.
Even without stepping inside, it is an attraction worth seeking out. The surrounding area provides some excellent viewpoints and photo opportunities, while the tower itself helps bring Tallinn’s medieval history to life. Looking up at its weathered stonework, it is easy to imagine the centuries of sieges, battles and political upheaval that have unfolded beneath its walls.
For those with more time than I had available, admission to the museum currently costs €16 (around £14), with access to the tower, exhibitions and sections of the wider fortifications complex.
Looking at the fortifications within the city centre
Large circular towers remain an impressive sight
Inside the walls their are numerous restaurants and cafes as well as the entrance to the museum
These strange hooded figures lined parts of the walls
Regular readers of this blog will know that whenever I visit a new city, I always try to seek out a local escape room. It has become something of a travel tradition over the years, and Tallinn was no exception.
For this trip, I visited what is now known as The Room, located at Pärnu mnt 28-1, Tallinn 10141, just a short walk from both Freedom Square and the edge of the Old Town.
When I visited, however, the company operated under the name Claustrophobia, a brand that many escape room enthusiasts across Europe will still recognise. Today, The Room offers five different escape experiences from its city-centre location.
The game I chose was called The Stormy Ocean. Sadly, this particular room is no longer available, which is a shame because it remains one of the more memorable escape room experiences I have encountered while travelling.
The premise placed players aboard an old ship battling the elements at sea. Rather than being confined to a single room, the experience unfolded across a series of interconnected areas designed to resemble different parts of the vessel. Over the course of the game, we found ourselves moving between a ship’s bridge, the captain’s quarters and an engine room, each packed with puzzles, clues and mechanisms that helped bring the story to life.
What impressed me most was the attention to detail. The designers had clearly invested significant effort in creating an immersive environment, and it genuinely felt as though you were exploring a vessel rather than simply solving puzzles inside a themed room. The progression between areas was logical, the puzzles were varied, and there was always a sense of momentum as we worked our way through the ship.
Although The Stormy Ocean has now disappeared into the history books – or perhaps the depths of the ocean – The Room continues to operate a number of highly regarded games from the same venue. Current themes include detective mysteries, science-fiction adventures and psychological thrillers, ensuring there is something to suit most tastes.
At the time of writing, prices start from €30 per person (approximately £26), with a minimum booking of two players, meaning the lowest total cost is €60 (approximately £52) for a game. Most experiences last between 60 and 75 minutes depending on the room selected.
If, like me, you enjoy escape rooms and puzzle-solving experiences while travelling, The Room is well worth considering during a visit to Tallinn. While I can no longer recommend The Stormy Ocean specifically, the quality of the venue and the creativity shown in the room I played suggest that the current games are likely to be just as entertaining.
Inside the waiting area ahead of our game
Giving you an idea of the puzzles that lay ahead
One of the most unusual and memorable parts of my time in Estonia was a visit to Rummu Prison, an abandoned Soviet-era prison and quarry complex that has become one of the country’s most fascinating attractions.
I visited as part of the Coastal Cliffs and Soviet Paldiski Tour operated by Tallinn Traveller Tours, which cost €49 per person and combines several interesting locations west of Tallinn into a single day trip.
Rummu has a remarkable history. During the Soviet era, prisoners were used as forced labour in the adjacent limestone quarry. When Estonia regained its independence in the early 1990s, mining operations ceased and the site was abandoned. Without the pumps that had previously kept the quarry dry, groundwater gradually flooded the area, submerging large sections of the prison complex beneath crystal-clear water.
The result is something truly extraordinary.
What many visitors don’t realise is just how much of the original complex now lies beneath the surface. A significant portion of the prison buildings disappeared underwater as the quarry flooded. During my visit in December, the lake was partially frozen, adding an extra layer of atmosphere to the scene but also concealing much of what lies below.
In the warmer months, however, the submerged sections of the prison attract divers from across Europe. The exceptionally clear water allows scuba divers to explore the underwater ruins, including buildings, machinery and other remnants of the site’s Soviet past that remain preserved beneath the surface.
Even during winter, though, there is plenty to see above ground.
One of the most striking features still accessible is a guard tower positioned along the prison perimeter. A narrow spiral staircase leads visitors to the top, offering an elevated view across the complex. From here, it is possible to appreciate both the scale of the former prison and the unusual landscape that surrounds it.
Standing in the tower, looking out across the flooded quarry and the remains of the prison, it is difficult not to reflect on the site’s history. Thick brick walls still stand defiantly against the elements, while rusting fences and coils of barbed wire serve as reminders of a time when escape was the last thing the authorities wanted to make possible.
The contrast between the prison’s bleak purpose and the beauty of its surroundings is what makes Rummu so captivating. What was once a place of confinement has become one of Estonia’s most unique tourist attractions, drawing photographers, history enthusiasts, divers and curious travellers alike.
It is certainly not a typical sightseeing stop, but for those interested in Soviet history or looking to experience something a little different from Tallinn’s medieval streets, Rummu Prison is well worth the journey.
Standing, albeit slightly uncertainly on top of the flooded water at the prison
The remains of the guard’s seat inside the guard tower
The whole site is in a state of ruin
Unbelievably, this is only the upper levels of this building which has more floors under the ice that were inaccessible during my visit
Where to avoid
The good news is that there isn’t really anywhere in Tallinn that I would tell visitors to completely avoid. Estonia is a very safe country by European standards, and Tallinn is generally considered one of Europe’s safer capital cities. The city is compact, easy to walk around and has good public transport, so I never felt particularly concerned while exploring on my own.
That said, being somewhere safe doesn’t mean you can completely switch off. The main thing to be aware of in Tallinn is pickpocketing, particularly around busy tourist areas. The UK government’s current travel advice specifically highlights bars and nightclubs in Tallinn’s Old Town as places where pickpockets can be a problem.
I would therefore take the usual precautions around Town Hall Square, Viru Street and other busy parts of the Old Town, particularly when the Christmas Market is operating and the streets are crowded. Keep your phone and wallet somewhere secure, don’t leave bags unattended and be particularly careful when moving through busy queues or packed areas. There is no reason to be paranoid – just sensible.
Night-time is another occasion when a little extra awareness is worthwhile. The Old Town has plenty of bars and nightlife, and the FCDO advises that the risk of assault is highest late at night around popular nightlife locations. If you’re drinking, keep an eye on your drink and your friends, and don’t accept drinks from strangers. It is also worth remembering that drinks served in Estonia can be stronger than those in the UK.
I’d also be careful when getting a taxi. Use a pre-booked or official taxi with the appropriate signage, or a reputable taxi app, and check that the vehicle details match what you have been given. Avoid getting into an unmarked vehicle simply because someone approaches you offering a cheap ride.
One thing I would particularly bear in mind if visiting Tallinn in winter is the darkness. December days are very short, and roads and pavements can become slippery in cold or snowy weather. Estonia also has a legal requirement for pedestrians to use a reflector during the darker months to make themselves more visible to drivers.
Overall, though, I wouldn’t let safety concerns put you off Tallinn. I spent my time exploring the Old Town, visiting its sights, wandering around the Christmas Market and heading further into the city without ever feeling uncomfortable.
Take the same sensible precautions you would in any European capital and you should have little to worry about. In fact, Tallinn’s reputation for being safe is one of the things that makes it such an easy city to explore.
Great places to eat
One of the best meals I had during my time in Tallinn came at Vegan Restoran V, a cosy restaurant tucked away on Rataskaevu Street in the heart of the Old Town. Located at Rataskaevu 12, just a minute or two from Town Hall Square, it would be easy to walk past without realising that it is one of the city’s most highly regarded dining spots.
Despite the name, you certainly do not need to be vegan to enjoy eating here. In fact, that is probably part of the restaurant’s appeal. Established as Estonia’s first fully vegan restaurant, Vegan Restoran V has built a reputation for serving imaginative, flavour-packed dishes that appeal to everyone, regardless of dietary preference.
The menu takes inspiration from cuisines around the world rather than focusing on traditional Estonian cooking. During my visit, dishes on offer included beetroot ravioli with cashew cream and basil pesto, vegetable and lentil lasagne, Korean-style chickenless fillet with rice noodles and shiitake-coconut sauce, vegan burgers, sweet potato dishes and a variety of sharing platters. There is also a tempting selection of desserts including tiramisu, pavlova and Biscoff cake.
The restaurant itself is relatively small, which only adds to its charm. Exposed stone walls, warm lighting and intimate seating create a relaxed atmosphere that feels perfectly suited to Tallinn’s medieval surroundings. It is the sort of place where you can comfortably linger over dinner while escaping the cold winter temperatures outside.
In terms of cost, a three-course meal for two people with drinks will typically come to around €60-80 (approximately £52-£69), depending on what you order. While it is not the cheapest place to eat in Tallinn, the quality of the food more than justifies the price and still represents good value by UK standards.
The restaurant is extremely popular and often busy, particularly during the festive season when visitors flock to the Christmas Market nearby. Booking ahead is therefore a sensible idea if you have your heart set on eating here.
Tallinn has no shortage of excellent places to eat, but Vegan Restoran V was one of the stand-out dining experiences of my trip. Whether you are vegan, vegetarian or simply someone who enjoys good food, it is well worth making time for during a visit to Estonia’s capital.
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Romania had been sitting high on my travel list for years – a country that seems to straddle multiple worlds at once.
Part Eastern Europe, part Central Europe, and shaped by influences ranging from the Romans and Ottomans to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Communist era, it is a destination rich in history, culture, and folklore.
Despite growing in popularity in recent years, Romania still feels surprisingly underappreciated compared to many of its European neighbours.
Visitors often arrive expecting little more than tales of Dracula and gloomy castles, only to discover vibrant cities, spectacular mountain scenery, medieval towns, and some of the friendliest people on the continent.
Its capital, Bucharest, is perhaps the greatest surprise of all. Nicknamed “Little Paris” during its golden age, the city blends elegant Belle Époque architecture with imposing Communist-era landmarks, trendy cafés, bustling nightlife, and leafy parks. It is a city that refuses to fit neatly into any stereotype, revealing a different side of itself with every street explored.
Beyond Bucharest lies Transylvania, a region that has captivated imaginations for centuries. While the legend of Dracula continues to draw visitors from around the world, the reality is every bit as fascinating.
Fairy-tale castles, fortified churches, colourful Saxon towns, and the dramatic peaks of the Carpathian Mountains combine to create one of Europe’s most rewarding travel experiences.
This trip represented another opportunity to venture beyond the destinations that dominate most European travel itineraries. While Romania is by no means undiscovered, it still offers a sense of authenticity that can sometimes feel difficult to find elsewhere.
From wandering through the grand boulevards of Bucharest to exploring medieval streets in Brașov and Sibiu, this journey promised a fascinating blend of history, culture, and adventure.
Romanians are very proud of their country
So what should first-time visitors to Bucharest and Transylvania consider before setting off to one of Europe’s most intriguing and misunderstood destinations?
The first thing to understand about Romania is its remarkable diversity. In the space of a single trip, you can experience the energy of a thriving capital city, explore centuries-old medieval towns, hike through mountain landscapes, and visit castles that seem lifted straight from the pages of a storybook. Every region possesses its own character, making Romania feel much larger and more varied than many visitors expect.
The next thing to prepare for is the weather. Conditions can vary significantly depending on both the season and where you are travelling. Bucharest generally experiences hotter summers and milder winters than the mountain regions, while Transylvania can often feel noticeably cooler, particularly in the evenings.
During summer, temperatures regularly exceed 30°C (86°F), particularly in Bucharest, while spring and autumn offer pleasant conditions ideal for sightseeing. Winter can be much colder, especially in Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains, where snowfall is common and temperatures can fall below freezing.
However, if you travel in December – as I did – then know that Bucharest is cold, featuring an average daytime high of 5°C (41°F) and an overnight low of -2°C (28°F).
As always, it’s worth checking the forecast before departure, but comfortable walking shoes and layers are highly recommended regardless of the season, particularly if your itinerary includes both city breaks and mountain excursions.
The next thing to consider is the currency. Romania’s currency is the Romanian Leu (RON), and while card payments are widely accepted throughout the country, carrying some cash remains useful for smaller purchases, markets, and rural areas. At the time of writing, £1 is worth approximately 6 Romanian Lei (RON).
Unlike some lesser-traded European currencies, Romanian Lei are generally easier to obtain in the UK, although exchange rates are often better when ordered online in advance. As always, it pays to compare rates before travelling.
ATMs are readily available throughout Bucharest and the larger towns of Transylvania, while contactless payments are commonplace in hotels, restaurants, shops, and tourist attractions.
Tipping in Romania is appreciated but not compulsory. In restaurants, leaving around 10% for good service is considered standard practice, while rounding up taxi fares is also common.
Bucharest on Google Maps
Brasov and Bran (towards the bottom left) within Transilvania
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in Romania is straightforward. The country is two hours ahead of the UK, meaning there’s little disruption to your body clock. Direct flights from London to Bucharest typically take around three hours and twenty minutes, making Romania one of the more accessible destinations in Eastern Europe.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to pack a power plug adapter.
Romania uses Type C and Type F plug sockets, which operate on a standard voltage of 230 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. If you are traveling from the UK, you will need a physical plug adapter to fit your Type G devices into their local outlets.
While Romania has become increasingly international in recent years, learning a few local phrases can still go a long way.
The official language is Romanian, a Romance language with strong similarities to Italian, Spanish, French, and Portuguese. As a result, visitors familiar with any of these languages may recognise certain words and phrases.
English is widely spoken among younger generations, particularly in Bucharest and major tourist destinations such as Brașov, Sibiu, and Bran. Communication is rarely a problem in hotels, restaurants, and attractions, although a translation app can prove useful when venturing into more rural areas.
Locals always appreciate visitors making an effort with the language. “Hello” is Bună ziua, while “goodbye” is La revedere. “Please” is Vă rog, and “thank you” is Mulțumesc. If you’re raising a glass of Romania’s excellent wine or local beer, you’ll likely hear Noroc — the Romanian equivalent of “cheers”.
One final thing to consider is how you’ll stay connected during your trip. Romania boasts some of the fastest internet speeds in Europe, and free Wi-Fi is widely available in hotels, cafés, restaurants, and public spaces.
However, relying solely on Wi-Fi can be inconvenient when navigating unfamiliar cities, booking transport, or exploring remote areas of Transylvania.
That’s why I recommend purchasing an eSIM before travelling.
Providers such as Airalo make the process quick and straightforward. Simply purchase a Romanian data package through the app, activate it before departure, and your phone will connect automatically upon arrival.
It removes the need to search for local SIM cards and ensures you’ll have reliable access to maps, bookings, and travel information throughout your stay.
With these essentials taken care of, I was ready to begin my Romanian adventure – a journey that would take me from the grand boulevards and fascinating contrasts of Bucharest to the castles, mountains, and medieval towns that have made Transylvania one of Europe’s most enduringly captivating regions.
Getting there
Getting to Bucharest from the UK is refreshingly straightforward. Romania’s capital is well connected to Britain, with numerous airlines operating direct services throughout the year and flight times short enough to make it an ideal destination for either a long weekend or a longer exploration of the country.
For travellers flying from the UK, there are several options available. Ryanair operates flights from London Stansted, while Wizz Air serves Bucharest from both London Luton and London Gatwick. British Airways also offers services from London Heathrow, providing a more traditional full-service option for those who prefer it.
Depending on where you are based in the UK, there are often seasonal and regional departures available from airports such as Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Bristol.
For this trip, we chose to fly direct from London Stansted with Ryanair. The total return fare for two people came to just £133.92, which represented excellent value for a European city break.
Of course, fares can fluctuate significantly depending on the season, how far in advance you book, and the time of day you choose to travel, but Romania generally remains one of the more affordable destinations to reach from the UK.
Flight times from London to Bucharest are typically around three hours and twenty minutes, making the journey surprisingly quick considering the distance travelled. Before long, the familiar patchwork fields of southern England give way to the landscapes of continental Europe, before eventually descending towards Romania’s sprawling capital.
As with most Ryanair flights, the experience was simple, efficient and exactly what you would expect from one of Europe’s leading low-cost carriers. Boarding was well organised, the aircraft departed on time, and before we knew it we were beginning our descent into Bucharest.
Our arrival point was Bucharest Henri Coandă International Airport, often still referred to simply as Otopeni Airport. Located approximately 16.5km north of Bucharest’s city centre, it serves as Romania’s busiest airport and the country’s principal international gateway.
In 2025, the airport welcomed more than 17 million passengers, underlining its importance as one of Eastern Europe’s major aviation hubs. The airport operates one main single terminal divided into three interconnected areas: the Departures Hall, the Arrivals Hall, and the Finger Terminal (airside concourse) and two parallel runways, each measuring 3,500 metres in length, allowing it to handle a significant volume of both domestic and international traffic.
Despite its size, the airport is relatively easy to navigate. Facilities include currency exchange counters, cafés, restaurants, car hire desks, duty-free shopping and a rail connection into the city. Immigration and baggage collection were both straightforward during our visit, allowing us to begin our Romanian adventure without any unnecessary delays.
Travellers arriving at Bucharest Airport have several options for reaching the city centre. Taxis are readily available outside the terminal, while rideshare services such as Uber and Bolt are widely used and often provide a convenient alternative. There is also a direct rail service connecting the airport to Gara de Nord, Bucharest’s main railway station, with journey times of around 20 to 25 minutes. Public buses operate throughout the day and offer the cheapest option for those travelling on a budget.
For our trip, however, we decided to remove any uncertainty by booking a private return transfer through Hoppa before departure. The total cost came to just £25.61 for the return journey, which we felt represented excellent value for the convenience offered. As always, prices will vary depending on the season, vehicle type and demand at the time of booking.
After collecting our luggage, our driver was waiting exactly where promised and within a very short space of time we were leaving the airport behind and heading towards the city. It was a simple, stress-free start to the trip, avoiding the need to compare taxi prices or navigate public transport immediately after landing.
There is always something exciting about those first moments in a new destination. As the suburbs of Bucharest rolled past the window and the lights of the city began to appear in the distance, it felt like the real adventure was finally beginning.
Flying into Romania over the mountains below
Where to stay
When choosing where to stay in Bucharest, we were looking for somewhere that offered a little luxury without sacrificing convenience.
After plenty of research, we settled on the Epoque Hotel, an elegant five-star boutique property tucked away on a quiet street beside the beautiful Cișmigiu Gardens, one of the city’s most famous green spaces.
Its location proved to be one of its greatest strengths. While Bucharest’s bustling Old Town and many of the capital’s major attractions were within easy walking distance, the hotel itself felt removed from the noise and energy of the city centre. After a long day of exploring, returning to such a peaceful setting was a welcome contrast.
For our trip, we booked a two-night stay in a Junior Suite at a total cost of £173.50, including daily breakfast for two people. Our visit took place in December, and it’s worth noting that accommodation prices in Bucharest can vary considerably depending on the season, local events and availability, so rates may have changed since our stay.
The experience began the moment we stepped through the hotel’s doors. Check-in was warm, efficient and refreshingly personal, and we were welcomed with a glass of champagne while the formalities were completed. It was a small gesture, but one that immediately made the hotel feel special and set the tone for the stay ahead.
Shortly afterwards, we were escorted to our Junior Suite, and the first impression was simply one of space. Unlike many city hotels where every square metre feels carefully maximised, this suite felt wonderfully generous. Rather than being a single room, it offered several distinct living spaces, including a large bedroom area, a separate lounge, an impressive bathroom and a private balcony.
The living area quickly became a favourite spot to relax after a day spent wandering Bucharest’s streets. Large windows allowed plenty of natural light to flood the suite during the day, while the tasteful décor created an atmosphere that felt both luxurious and comfortable. The bedroom was equally inviting, with a large bed that provided an excellent night’s sleep, while the spacious bathroom added another touch of indulgence to the overall experience.
One feature that particularly appealed to us was the hotel’s indoor swimming pool. Visiting Romania in December means spending plenty of time wrapped up against the winter chill, so having the opportunity to enjoy a swim at the end of a day sightseeing was a real treat. The pool area was calm, beautifully maintained and offered the perfect place to unwind before heading out for the evening or settling in for the night.
Another standout feature was the hotel’s restaurant. Breakfast was included with our stay and quickly became one of the highlights of each morning. Served in elegant surroundings, it offered a high-quality selection of hot and cold options that provided the perfect start to a busy day of exploration.
We enjoyed the restaurant so much that we returned one evening for dinner, and it did not disappoint. The food was superb, the service attentive without being intrusive, and the atmosphere struck exactly the right balance between refined dining and relaxed comfort.
What impressed me most about Epoque was how effortlessly it combined boutique luxury with a welcoming, unpretentious feel. Some high-end hotels can feel formal or intimidating, but Epoque managed to provide all the comforts of a luxury property while remaining warm and approachable throughout our stay.
Overall, it proved to be an excellent base for exploring Bucharest. Its peaceful location beside Cișmigiu Gardens, spacious accommodation, excellent facilities and high standard of service all helped make our time in Romania’s capital even more memorable.
While there are certainly cheaper places to stay in Bucharest, travellers looking to add a little comfort and indulgence to their visit will find plenty to like here. For us, it struck exactly the right balance between city break convenience and boutique luxury.
The entrance to the Epoque Hotel
Inside the Junior Suite
The swimming pool inside the hotel is a welcome place to warm up after a day in the city
Getting around
Bucharest is a city that rewards those willing to explore it on foot. While Romania’s capital is significantly larger than many European city-break destinations, many of its most interesting attractions are concentrated within a relatively manageable area, making walking one of the best ways to experience the city’s unique character.
Strolling through Bucharest allows you to appreciate the fascinating contrasts that have earned it a reputation as one of Europe’s most intriguing capitals. Grand Belle Époque buildings stand alongside imposing Communist-era landmarks, while elegant boulevards give way to hidden churches, quiet courtyards and vibrant café-lined streets. One moment you can be admiring the grandeur of the Romanian Athenaeum, and the next you can find yourself wandering through the atmospheric lanes of the Old Town.
Perhaps more than anything, walking allows you to discover the side of Bucharest that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks. Some of my favourite moments came not from ticking off major landmarks, but from stumbling across impressive architecture, tucked-away restaurants and neighbourhoods that revealed a different side of the city. Bucharest is a place that often rewards curiosity more than careful planning.
That is not to say there aren’t plenty of other transport options available. Bucharest has an extensive public transport network consisting of buses, trams, trolleybuses and a modern metro system, all of which provide affordable ways to travel across the city. Taxis are widely available, while ride-hailing services are popular and generally inexpensive compared to many Western European cities.
For those wishing to explore beyond the capital independently, car hire is readily available both at Bucharest Henri Coandă International Airport and from numerous locations throughout the city. Romania’s road network has improved considerably in recent years, and having your own vehicle offers the flexibility to explore some of the country’s smaller towns and more rural areas at your own pace.
However, if your plans include visiting Transylvania’s most famous attractions – particularly destinations such as Brașov and Bran Castle – I would personally recommend joining an organised day tour rather than driving yourself.
A wide range of escorted tours operate from Bucharest, many of which include hotel pick-up and drop-off as part of the package. Not only does this remove the stress of navigating unfamiliar roads and parking in busy tourist areas, but it also allows you to sit back and enjoy the spectacular scenery as you travel through the Carpathian Mountains and into the heart of Transylvania.
For our visit, this proved to be by far the most convenient option. Everything was organised for us, transportation was comfortable, and we were able to focus entirely on enjoying the experience rather than worrying about directions, traffic or timetables.
Ultimately, while there are plenty of ways to travel around Bucharest and beyond, I found that the simplest approach was often the best. Explore the capital on foot wherever possible, and when it comes to discovering the castles, mountains and medieval towns of Transylvania, let somebody else do the legwork.
The streets are quite run down but it’s easy to walk around Bucharest
Top sites
Bucharest is a city that wears its history openly. Around almost every corner, you can see the contrast between the elegance of its pre-war architecture and the imposing reminders of its Communist past.
Nowhere is that contrast more dramatic than at the Palace of the Parliament – a building so enormous that it feels almost impossible to get a view of the whole thing!
Standing proudly on Bulevardul Libertății, in central Bucharest, the Palace of the Parliament dominates the skyline from the western edge of the city centre. Located at the end of Bulevardul Unirii, just a short distance from the Old Town, it is one of the first places many visitors head to when trying to understand the scale and ambition of Romania’s capital.
And when I say scale, I really mean it.
The Palace of the Parliament is the heaviest building in the world and the second-largest administrative building on the planet, behind only the Pentagon.
Construction began in 1984 under Romania’s former Communist leader Nicolae Ceaușescu, who wanted to create a monumental symbol of power and national pride. The result is a building that is almost impossible to comprehend until you are standing directly in front of it.
The figures alone are staggering. The Palace covers more than 365,000 square metres, contains over 1,000 rooms, and was built using enormous quantities of Romanian materials, including marble, crystal, wood and textiles. The craftsmanship is undeniably impressive, but the story behind its creation is far more complicated.
To make way for the building, large parts of Bucharest were demolished, including historic homes, churches and neighbourhoods. Thousands of workers contributed to its construction during a period when many ordinary Romanians were experiencing severe economic hardship and shortages. Because of this, the Palace remains a deeply complex symbol – admired for its architectural achievement, but also remembered as a reminder of one of the country’s most difficult periods.
When I visited Bucharest, we only saw the Palace of the Parliament from the outside. Even without stepping inside, it was still one of the most impressive sights of the entire trip. Standing at the base of the building and looking up at the endless rows of windows and vast stone façade really is a sight to behold.
My photographs simply do not capture the scale. The building stretches so far across the landscape that it almost feels more like a city within a city than a traditional government building. It is the kind of landmark that makes you stop for a moment and appreciate the sheer ambition – and controversy – behind its creation.
For those wanting to explore inside, it is possible to visit the Palace through the official Palatul Parlamentului Visitor Centre, where guided tours take visitors through some of the building’s most impressive rooms and halls.
I understand that the interior is every bit as extravagant as the exterior suggests and visitors can see enormous marble staircases, grand meeting rooms, beautifully decorated halls and intricate details that showcase the incredible level of craftsmanship involved in its construction.
Standard entry tickets (at the time of writing) cost 85 lei (around £13.90) for adults, 55 lei (around £8.99) for students aged 19–26 with a valid ID, and 40 lei (around £6.54) for children aged 7–18. Children under seven can enter for free.
If you do decide to visit inside, you should bring a valid form of identification, as security checks can be carried out before entering the building.
The Palace of the Parliament in enormous in size and stature
Stepping further back gives you an idea of its huge scale
Some places in a city are memorable because of their beauty, while others stay with you because of the moments that unfolded there.
Located on Revolution Square (Piața Revoluției), in the heart of central Bucharest, this otherwise unassuming part of the city became the stage for one of the most dramatic moments in Romania’s modern history. It was here, on 21 December 1989, that Nicolae Ceaușescu delivered his final public speech before the Romanian Revolution brought an end to his 24-year rule.
Today, Revolution Square is one of the most historically significant places in Bucharest. Surrounded by some of the city’s most important buildings and it is a place where Romania’s past and present sit side-by-side.
Standing in the square, it is easy to overlook the balcony itself. There is no grand monument marking the exact spot, no dramatic entrance or overwhelming display. Instead, it blends into the surrounding architecture – which almost makes the story behind it even more powerful.
Before December 1989, the balcony belonged to the Central Committee building of the Romanian Communist Party, the centre of political power during Ceaușescu’s dictatorship. It was from here that the leader addressed the crowds gathered below, attempting to condemn the unrest that had begun in the city of Timișoara and reassure the Romanian people that his government remained in control.
However, the speech did not go according to plan.
As Ceaușescu began speaking, the crowd below unexpectedly turned against him. What followed was an extraordinary moment broadcast across the world – a leader who had built a reputation around absolute control suddenly losing command of the very people he was addressing.
The stunned expression on Ceaușescu’s face, as the crowd began to boo and chant against him, became one of the defining images of the Romanian Revolution. The following day, protesters entered the building, Ceaușescu and his wife Elena fled by helicopter, and after a brief trial they were executed on 25 December 1989.
When I visited Revolution Square, seeing the balcony in person was a surprisingly powerful experience. It is not the kind of attraction where you spend hours exploring or taking countless photographs. Instead, it is a place where you pause, look up, and reflect on the significance of what happened there.
The contrast is striking. Today, the square is peaceful, surrounded by traffic, cafés and everyday city life. Yet standing there, it is difficult not to imagine the atmosphere of that December morning – the uncertainty, the fear, and the moment when a population decided that decades of oppression had gone too far.
Just a short walk away, visitors can also see the Memorial of Rebirth (Memorialul Renașterii), a monument dedicated to those who lost their lives during the revolution. While its design has divided opinion among locals and visitors alike, it provides an important reminder of the human cost behind Romania’s transition from Communist rule to democracy.
Visiting the balcony is completely free, and there is no formal ticket or visitor centre. It is simply a place to stand, observe and understand a pivotal moment in European history.
For anyone interested in learning more about Bucharest beyond its architecture and cafés, Revolution Square is an essential stop.
The Palace of the Parliament may represent the ambition of Ceaușescu’s regime, but this balcony represents something far more significant – the moment when ordinary people challenged that power and changed the course of Romania’s future.
Looking towards the Memorial of Rebirth and to the area behind where Ceaușescu gave his fated final speech
Transylvania
While Bucharest offers more than enough to fill a long weekend, no trip to Romania would feel complete without venturing into Transylvania.
Few regions in Europe have captured the imagination quite like this mountainous corner of central Romania. For many visitors, the very name conjures images of medieval castles, mist-covered forests, fortified towns and, of course, the enduring legend of Dracula. Yet while popular culture has helped make Transylvania famous, the reality is far richer and more fascinating than the myths alone would suggest.
Historically, Transylvania has occupied a unique position at the crossroads of Central and Eastern Europe. Over the centuries it has been shaped by Romanian, Hungarian, Saxon and Ottoman influences, leaving behind a remarkable legacy of castles, churches, fortified settlements and picturesque medieval towns.
Of course, it is impossible to talk about Transylvania without mentioning Dracula.
The character created by Irish author Bram Stoker in 1897 was inspired, at least in part, by Vlad III, better known as Vlad the Impaler, a 15th-century Wallachian ruler whose brutal reputation became the stuff of legend.
Although the historical Vlad had little direct connection to the vampire count that later appeared in literature, the association has become inseparable from Transylvania’s identity, drawing visitors from around the world eager to explore the landscapes and castles linked to the story.
For travellers based in Bucharest, one of the easiest ways to experience Transylvania is through an organised day tour. There are countless operators offering remarkably similar itineraries, most of which combine three of the region’s most famous attractions: Peleș Castle, the medieval city of Brașov, and Bran Castle, better known to many as Dracula’s Castle.
The tour departs from Bucharest and takes visitors deep into the heart of Transylvania, combining stunning scenery, fascinating history and some of Romania’s most iconic landmarks into a single day.
At the time of writing, prices start from £50.61 per adult and £46.33 for children aged between four and 17, making it a relatively affordable way to see a significant part of Romania beyond the capital. As with most tours, prices can fluctuate depending on the season, demand and availability.
The appeal of these excursions is obvious. Rather than worrying about train schedules, car hire or navigating unfamiliar roads through the Carpathian Mountains, everything is organised for you. Transport, guiding and logistics are all taken care of, allowing you to focus entirely on enjoying the experience.
The spooky image we all expect to see when we think of Transylvania
Looking up at the beautiful Carpathian Mountains
The first stop on most tours into Transylvania will be Peles Castle.
Nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, Peleș Castle is located in the picturesque town of Sinaia, around 125 kilometres north of Bucharest.
The route itself is part of the experience, gradually leaving behind the busy streets of Bucharest and winding its way through increasingly dramatic scenery as the mountains begin to dominate the horizon.
Surrounded by dense forests and framed by towering peaks, the town has an elegance and charm that feels distinctly different from the capital.
And then, tucked amongst the trees, Peleș Castle comes into view.
Few buildings in Romania are as instantly impressive. With its fairy-tale towers, decorative timber-framed façades and spectacular mountain setting, Peleș looks as though it has been lifted straight from the pages of a storybook. It is the kind of place that immediately causes visitors to reach for their cameras.
Construction of the castle began in 1873 under King Carol I, Romania’s first king, who chose the area as the site of his summer residence. The result was a masterpiece of Neo-Renaissance architecture that remains one of the most beautiful castles in Europe. Unlike many of the medieval fortresses found elsewhere in Romania, Peleș was designed as a royal palace from the outset, intended to showcase wealth, sophistication and modernity.
Unfortunately, when we visited, Peleș Castle was closed as it was undergoing refurbishment work, meaning visitors were unable to access the attraction.
While it was disappointing to miss one of Romania’s most famous landmarks, our tour operator provided an excellent alternative in the form of Cantacuzino Castle in the mountain town of Bușteni.
Located around 10km north of Sinaia and approximately 15 minutes by road from Peleș Castle, Cantacuzino Castle sits against the dramatic backdrop of the Bucegi Mountains and offers some of the most spectacular views in the region.
Built between 1901 and 1911 for Prince Gheorghe Grigore Cantacuzino – one of the wealthiest and most influential figures in Romania at the time – the castle is a stunning example of Neo-Romanian architecture.
Although less internationally famous than Peleș, the castle is an attraction in its own right. The ornate stonework, elegant terraces and impressive mountain setting make it a photographer’s dream, while the interior features grand halls, stained glass windows and a fascinating collection of heraldic artwork connected to the Cantacuzino family.
Some visitors may also recognise the building from popular culture. In recent years, Cantacuzino Castle gained international attention after being used as a filming location for Netflix’s Wednesday, where its exterior was transformed into Nevermore Academy.
While it wasn’t the castle we had originally expected to visit, Cantacuzino Castle turned out to be a very pleasant surprise.
One of the impressive entranceways into Cantacuzino Castle
Looking through the trees at Cantacuzino Castle
If Peleș Castle is one of Transylvania’s most beautiful castle, then Bran Castle is undoubtedly its most famous.
The drive from Cantacuzino Castle to Bran Castle takes around 45 minutes to an hour, winding through some of the most beautiful scenery in the country. The road passes through mountain valleys, traditional villages and dense forests, offering plenty of opportunities to admire the landscapes that have helped make Transylvania so legendary.
It is easy to see how stories and folklore became woven into this part of Romania. The dramatic peaks of the Carpathian Mountains loom in the distance, while thick woodland stretches across the hillsides. Even during daylight, there is something undeniably atmospheric about the region.
And then, perched high on a rocky outcrop above the surrounding countryside, Bran Castle finally comes into view.
Unlike the refined grandeur of Peleș, Bran Castle feels altogether more rugged and imposing. Its whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs and commanding position above the valley make it look exactly as many visitors imagine a medieval fortress should. It is one of those rare landmarks that manages to live up to the photographs.
Built in 1388 by the Saxons of Brașov, Bran Castle was originally constructed as a defensive fortress to protect a strategically important mountain pass between Transylvania and Wallachia. For centuries it served as both a military stronghold and customs post, helping to control trade moving through the region.
Over time, however, the castle’s role evolved. In the early twentieth century it became a royal residence, most notably associated with Queen Marie of Romania, who transformed it into a much-loved summer retreat. Many of the rooms visitors see today reflect this later period of the castle’s history.
Yet for most travellers, it is not the castle’s military or royal past that draws them here. It’s Dracula!
Bran Castle has become synonymous with the legend of Dracula
Looking up at the impressive Bran Castle
The silhouette of Bran Castle
Bran Castle is known across the world as “Dracula’s Castle”, despite the fact that the connection between the fortress and the famous vampire is surprisingly tenuous.
The legend originates with Bram Stoker’s 1897 novel Dracula. Although the Irish author never visited Romania, the fictional description of Dracula’s castle bears a striking resemblance to Bran’s dramatic setting atop a rocky hill. Over time, the similarities proved irresistible, and Bran Castle gradually became associated with the Count in the public imagination.
Adding further intrigue is the figure who partly inspired Stoker’s creation: Vlad III of Wallachia, better known as Vlad the Impaler.
Vlad earned a fearsome reputation during the fifteenth century for his brutal methods of dealing with enemies, leading to stories that spread far beyond Romania’s borders. While there is no evidence that Vlad ever lived at Bran Castle, and historians generally agree that his connection to the fortress was minimal at best, the association between Vlad, Dracula and Bran Castle has become impossible to separate.
Today, that connection is embraced wholeheartedly.
Long before reaching the castle itself, visitors are greeted by countless stalls lining the surrounding streets and pathways, many of them packed with Dracula-themed souvenirs. Vampire figurines, gothic artwork, black capes, mugs, T-shirts and every imaginable variation of Dracula memorabilia compete for attention. While some may find it a little kitschy, it undeniably adds to the atmosphere and reflects the role the legend now plays in the region’s tourism industry.
The castle itself strikes a fascinating balance between history and myth. Visitors can wander through a maze of narrow staircases, hidden passageways, medieval rooms and towers while learning about both the genuine history of the fortress and its connection to the Dracula story.
What surprised me most was how intimate the interior felt. From the outside, Bran appears vast and imposing, but inside it is a labyrinth of smaller rooms, winding corridors and unexpected corners. Exploring it feels less like visiting a grand palace and more like uncovering the secrets of an ancient stronghold.
Outside, the views are every bit as impressive as the castle itself. Looking out across the forests, hills and distant mountains, it is easy to understand why this part of Romania has inspired so many stories over the centuries.
The steep stairs leading up into Bran Castle
Inside the castle, the rooms are relatively simple and small
Looking down into the courtyard inside Bran Castle
After exploring the legends and history of Bran Castle, our final stop of the day took us to Brașov, one of the most beautiful and atmospheric cities in Romania.
The drive from Bran Castle to Brașov takes around 30 minutes, passing through rolling countryside and small Transylvanian settlements before the city gradually appears against the backdrop of the Carpathian Mountains. By this point in the day, it felt like the perfect change of pace. Having spent the morning exploring castles and royal residences, we were now heading somewhere that offered the chance to simply wander, soak up the atmosphere and experience everyday life in Transylvania.
Founded by German Saxons in the 13th century, Brașov is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Romania. Its strategic location at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains made it an important trading centre for centuries, and much of that history remains visible today.
Unlike Bucharest, which often feels grand and sprawling, Brașov is wonderfully compact and easy to explore on foot. The city’s historic centre is a maze of cobbled streets, colourful buildings and hidden alleyways, all overlooked by the famous “BRAȘOV” sign perched high on Tampa Mountain above the city.
One of the great advantages of the organised day tours is that they build in free time to explore Brașov independently. Rather than following a guide from one attraction to the next, visitors are given the opportunity to discover the city at their own pace, making it easy to spend an hour or two simply enjoying the atmosphere.
Most tours drop visitors close to Piața Sfatului, or Council Square, the historic heart of Brașov and undoubtedly one of the most attractive public squares in Romania.
Surrounded by beautifully preserved Baroque and Renaissance buildings painted in shades of yellow, orange, blue and green, the square immediately feels welcoming. Outdoor cafés spill onto the pavements, locals and tourists mingle beneath the surrounding architecture, and the mountains rise dramatically beyond the rooftops. It is exactly the kind of place where you can happily spend an hour with a coffee and simply watch the world go by – which is exactly what we did!
At the centre of the square stands the former Council House, a distinctive building topped by a clock tower that has watched over the city for centuries. Around it are numerous restaurants, cafés and shops, making it an ideal place to take a break after a busy day of sightseeing.
Just a short walk away is one of Brașov’s most famous landmarks, the Black Church. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, it is the largest Gothic church in Romania and owes its unusual name to damage caused by a major fire in 1689, which blackened much of its exterior stonework.
Those with a little more time can also wander through some of the surrounding streets, many of which feel wonderfully untouched by modern development. One of the most popular is Strada Sforii, or Rope Street, one of the narrowest streets in Europe, measuring little more than a metre wide in places.
What struck me most about Brașov was how different it felt from Bucharest. While the capital is energetic, bustling and often chaotic, Brașov has a slower, more relaxed pace. The medieval architecture, mountain scenery and pedestrian-friendly centre combine to create a city that feels almost tailor-made for wandering.
As the early evening drew to a close and it became time to return to Bucharest, I found myself wishing we had longer. While Brașov works perfectly as part of a day trip, it is also the kind of destination that deserves a visit in its own right.
Even in deepest, darkest Transylvania, they celebrate Christmas
The Black Church is a main feature of Brașov
Looking across Council Square in Brașov at the imposing Town Hall
The city streets adorned with Christmas lights
Where to avoid
Like any major European capital, Bucharest has its areas that require a little more awareness from visitors.
The city is generally safe to explore, and we never felt uncomfortable during our time there, but there is one thing worth keeping in mind: petty crime, particularly pickpocketing, can be an issue in busy areas.
The usual advice applies – keep your belongings secure, avoid leaving phones or wallets easily accessible, and be a little more alert in crowded places such as public transport, busy streets and tourist hotspots.
One thing that caught our attention was that pickpocketing attempts can sometimes involve groups working together, including young children – something we witnessed happening albeit not to us.
In some cases, one person may try to distract you through conversation, asking questions or creating a moment of confusion, while another attempts to take a phone, wallet or other valuables. It can be easy to dismiss this as harmless behaviour, but it is worth being aware that these situations do happen.
That said, there is no need to be overly cautious or let it affect your enjoyment of the city. Taking the same basic precautions you would in any large European city – particularly when out after dark or in crowded areas – is usually more than enough to avoid problems.
However, if there is one attraction in Bucharest that I personally would not rush back to visit, it would be the Historical Village Museum (Muzeul Național al Satului “Dimitrie Gusti”).
Located in King Michael I Park (Parcul Regele Mihai I, formerly known as Herăstrău Park) in the northern part of Bucharest, close to the shores of Lake Herăstrău and not far from the famous Arcul de Triumf, the museum is an open-air collection of traditional Romanian houses, farms, churches and rural buildings brought together from different regions of the country.
The idea behind the museum is certainly interesting. Opened in 1936, it was created to preserve and showcase the traditional way of life found across Romania’s villages, allowing visitors to experience historic homes, workshops and wooden churches from different parts of the country without having to travel across the entire nation.
Entry costs 40 lei for adults (around £6.50), with reduced prices available for retirees and students. The museum covers a large outdoor area, with more than 200 traditional structures representing different regions and communities across Romania.
On paper, it sounds like exactly the kind of cultural attraction that should be a highlight of any visit. However, when we visited, we found the experience somewhat underwhelming.
Part of the challenge is that much of the museum’s appeal relies on already having a strong understanding of Romanian rural history and architecture. For locals, or visitors with a particular interest in traditional crafts and village life, there is undoubtedly a lot to appreciate. The buildings are authentic, the collection is extensive, and it offers an interesting insight into a way of life that has largely disappeared.
For foreign tourists, however, the experience can feel a little disconnected. Without detailed knowledge of the regions, traditions and significance behind each building, many of the exhibits begin to blur together. Unlike other open-air museums across Europe, where interactive displays and storytelling help bring history to life, the Village Museum felt more like a collection of buildings to look at rather than a story to discover.
Our visit was also made slightly more memorable by an amusing encounter with one of the local residents who clearly took her role as guardian of Romanian manners very seriously.
An elderly Romanian lady approached us and began speaking to us in Romanian. As we did not understand what she was saying, we politely smiled but did not respond. A few moments later, she returned and, this time in English, explained that she was disappointed we had not replied and had failed to say “good morning” to her!
While it was certainly unexpected, it was also a funny reminder that sometimes the most memorable moments while travelling are not always the ones you plan for.
Ultimately, the National Village Museum is not a bad attraction – it simply depends on what you are looking for. If you have a genuine interest in Romanian heritage, traditional architecture or rural history, it may well be worth a visit. However, if you have limited time in Bucharest and are looking for the city’s most impressive sights and experiences, there are other places I would prioritise first.
The Village Museum is rather slow paced and, while quite large, lacks anything exciting for foreign visitors
There are plenty of stray cats that make this open-air museum their home
Inside one of the many homes demonstrated in the Historical Village Museum
Great places to eat
One of the great pleasures of visiting Bucharest is discovering that the city’s food scene is far more exciting than many first-time visitors might expect.
While traditional Romanian dishes such as sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), mici (grilled minced meat rolls) and papanași (Romanian doughnuts served with sour cream and jam) are well worth seeking out, the capital also has a growing reputation for more refined dining experiences.
During our stay, one restaurant stood out above the rest: L’Atelier Relais & Chateaux, the elegant restaurant located within the Epoque Hotel where we stayed.
We actually experienced L’Atelier multiple times during our visit. Breakfast was included with our stay at Epoque Hotel, meaning we started each morning there with a relaxed meal before heading out to explore the city. However, after enjoying the setting and quality of the food so much, we decided to return one evening for dinner – and it proved to be one of the highlights of our time in Bucharest.
The restaurant itself has a wonderfully intimate feel and extremely quiet. Rather than being a large, formal dining room, L’Atelier offers a more understated sense of luxury, with an elegant design and a calm atmosphere that makes it feel like a hidden gem tucked away from the busy streets outside.
The menu focuses on contemporary cuisine inspired by Romanian ingredients and traditions, while incorporating modern techniques and international influences. The kitchen places a strong emphasis on seasonal produce and working with local suppliers, creating dishes that feel connected to Romania while still offering a refined dining experience.
The à la carte menu changes regularly, but diners can expect a range of beautifully presented dishes featuring carefully sourced ingredients, alongside seasonal tasting menus for those looking for a more complete culinary journey. The restaurant also offers an extensive wine selection designed to complement the food.
For breakfast, the experience was relaxed but high quality, with a selection of fresh pastries, breads, hot dishes, fruit and other options to start the day. It was the kind of breakfast that encouraged you to slow down rather than simply grab something quickly before sightseeing.
Dinner was where L’Atelier really came into its own. The presentation, flavours and attention to detail were all exceptional, and every course felt carefully considered rather than simply being about putting together expensive ingredients. The service was equally impressive – attentive, knowledgeable and professional without ever feeling overly formal.
It is worth noting that L’Atelier is not the cheapest place to eat in Bucharest. This is very much a special occasion restaurant rather than somewhere you would visit every night during a city break – especially if you are travelling on a tight budget.
However, for those looking to enjoy an excellent meal and experience one of the city’s more sophisticated dining options, it represents very good value for the quality on offer.
What I particularly liked was that despite its fine dining credentials, it never lost sight of its Romanian identity. The restaurant celebrates the country’s ingredients and culinary heritage rather than simply trying to replicate a Western European luxury dining experience.
For anyone staying at the Epoque Hotel, dining at L’Atelier is almost a must. But even if you are staying elsewhere in Bucharest, it is worth considering making the journey for an evening meal. It offers a chance to see another side of the city – one that is modern, creative and increasingly confident in its own culinary identity.
After days spent exploring Bucharest’s grand architecture, Communist history and busy streets, ending an evening with a beautifully prepared meal in such a welcoming setting was the perfect way to experience the city’s quieter, more refined side.
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Moldova has long intrigued me – a small, landlocked country tucked between Romania and Ukraine, often overlooked by travellers and absent from most European bucket lists.
Despite being home to a rich winemaking tradition, beautiful monasteries, and a fascinating Soviet past, Moldova remains one of the least visited countries in Europe – ahead of only San Marino and Liechtenstein. Among larger nations, it proudly (or perhaps quietly) holds the title of Europe’s least-visited destination.
Its capital, Chișinău, may not boast the grandeur of Western Europe’s cities, but it has a quiet, authentic charm that rewards those willing to dig beneath the surface. Broad boulevards lined with Soviet-era architecture sit alongside leafy parks and lively cafés. It’s a city of contrasts – where old meets new, and where resilience and warmth define everyday life.
This trip marked my second adventure as a solo traveller, one I knew would push me even further out of my comfort zone. If my first solo journey was about finding my rhythm, this one was about testing my independence in a place less trodden – a destination that challenges expectations and invites you to see Europe through a different lens.
Entering Chișinău through its imposing City Gates
So what should first-time visitors to Chișinău consider before setting off to this lesser-known, quietly captivating corner of Europe?”
The first thing to understand about Moldova is its unassuming nature. There are no flashy tourist districts or overcrowded landmarks. Instead, the country’s beauty lies in its understated authenticity – morning walks through Cathedral Park, quiet moments at the Nativity Cathedral, or sampling local wines in the cellars that stretch for miles beneath the earth.
The next most important thing to prepare for, some may argue, is the weather. In February – the month in which I travelled there – Moldova doesn’t offer the kind of crisp winter charm you might expect in the Alps or Scandinavia.
Average highs hover around 3°C (37°F), while lows can fall to a frosty -4°C (25°F), especially at night. That said, while I was there, they were having an even more unusually cold period with temperatures dropping as low as -14°C (7°F)! Snow, also, isn’t uncommon, and icy winds often sweep through Chișinău’s wide boulevards, adding a noticeable chill to the air.
The skies tend to stay overcast, and daylight hours are short, so warm layers, a sturdy coat, and waterproof boots are essential companions for exploring the city’s parks, markets, and historical streets.
Chișinău on Google Maps
The next thing to consider is the currency. Moldova’s currency is the Moldovan Leu (MDL), and while prices are generally very affordable compared to Western Europe, cash is still king in many places. At the time of writing, £1 is worth around 22.50 Moldovan Leu (MDL).
It’s worth noting that you can’t usually pick up Moldovan Leu from exchange bureaus in the UK, as it’s considered an exotic currency and not widely stocked. However, you can easily order it online in advance through a number of reputable currency firms.
I recommend ManorFX, which offers a wide range of international currencies, including the Moldovan Leu. The process is simple: you select the currency and amount you need, pay securely online, and have it delivered to your door for a small delivery fee. This is a convenient way to ensure you arrive in Moldova with local cash ready to go.
However, if you don’t get any currency ahead of your trip then ATMs are available and it’s useful to carry small notes for local markets, taxis, or small cafés. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels and restaurants, but it’s always worth having some cash to hand.
Tipping in Moldova isn’t mandatory but is appreciated – rounding up the bill or leaving around 5-10% for good service is customary in restaurants. Taxi fares are inexpensive, though it’s best to agree on a price or use a local app like Yandex Go to avoid confusion.
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in Moldova is pleasantly straightforward. The country is just two hours ahead of the UK, so there’s little to no jet lag to worry about. Flights from London to Chișinău take around three and a half hours.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to pack a power plug adapter.
Moldova uses plug types C and F. Type C has two round pins, while type F has two round pins and two grounding clips on the side. You will need a travel adapter for these plug types if your home country uses a different standard, such as the UK’s type G plugs. The standard voltage in Moldova is 230V at a frequency of 50Hz, which is the same as in the UK – so no voltage converter is required, just the correct plug adapter.
While Moldova might feel a little off the beaten path, communication is rarely a major issue for visitors.
The official language is Romanian, which shares strong similarities with Italian, French, and Spanish, so English speakers may spot a few familiar words here and there. Russian is also widely spoken, particularly among older generations and in certain parts of the country, a reflection of Moldova’s Soviet past.
In Chișinău, many younger people speak basic English, especially those working in cafés, hotels, and restaurants, so getting by is relatively easy – though outside the capital, a translation app or phrasebook can be helpful.
All that being said, locals always appreciate the effort when travellers learn a few words of Romanian. “Hello” is Bună ziua, and “goodbye” is La revedere. If you want to be polite, “please” is Vă rog, and “thank you” is Mulțumesc. A simple “cheers” when sharing a drink is Noroc, which you’ll likely hear often – especially in a country famous for its wine.
One final thing to consider is how to stay connected during your time in Moldova. While free Wi-Fi is common in hotels and cafés across Chișinău, coverage can be patchy once you venture beyond the city. Roaming charges can also be expensive, and buying a local SIM card isn’t always the most convenient option for short stays.
That’s why I highly recommend purchasing an eSIM before you travel, ensuring smooth and reliable internet access throughout your trip.
Services like Airalo make it incredibly easy – simply download their app, purchase a data plan for Moldova, and activate the eSIM on your phone before you depart. Once you arrive, your device will automatically connect to a local network, saving you the hassle of hunting for Wi-Fi or swapping SIM cards. It’s the perfect way to stay in touch, check maps, and share photos of Chișinău’s colourful markets and grand Soviet architecture without interruption.
With these essentials in mind, I was ready to embark on my journey – one that would take me further out of my comfort zone, challenge the way I travel, and immerse me in the quiet charm and unexpected beauty of Moldova’s capital, Chișinău.
Getting there
Moldova had been on my radar for a while — a country often overlooked by travellers — yet full of charm, history, and some of Europe’s best wine. Add to that, a visit to this wonderfully quaint nation gave me the opportunity to add another sticker to my European Langford Water Bottle!
The new Moldova sticker featuring proudly on my European filled Langford Water Bottle
Getting there from the UK, however, takes a bit of planning. Chișinău Eugen Doga International Airport is Moldova’s main gateway, with connections to a range of European cities including London, Paris, Rome, and Vienna.
For travellers flying from the UK, there are several options: Wizz Air, FlyOne and HiSky operate routes to Chișinău from London Luton and London Stansted respectively, and there are seasonal connections from other European hubs if you prefer to break up the journey.
For this trip, I chose to fly direct from London Luton Airport with Wizz Air. The low-cost carrier offers several flights a week to Chișinău, and the total return fare (including seat selection) came to £172.31 – a pretty good deal considering it’s around a three-hour journey each way.
My flight departed Luton in the late afternoon, landing in Chișinău just before 9pm local time.
As with most Wizz Air flights, the experience was simple but efficient. Luton’s compact layout makes getting through security relatively quick, and the airline’s familiar pink-and-purple branding was easy to spot at the gate. The cabin was clean, the crew friendly, and despite the no-frills setup, the flight was on time and comfortable enough for the short hop across Europe.
Chișinău Eugen Doga International Airport itself is small but modern, a clean and efficient gateway that feels welcoming rather than overwhelming. Around three million passengers pass through its terminals each year, mostly travelling to and from destinations across Europe and the Middle East. Despite its modest size, it’s well equipped with everything you need after a flight – from currency exchange counters and SIM card kiosks to a small café serving strong Moldovan coffee and pastries.
Located roughly 13km southeast of the city centre. The drive into town takes around 20-25 minutes, depending on traffic with taxis readily available outside the terminal.
Before travelling, I’d arranged an airport transfer through Airport Taxi Transfer, which turned out to be an excellent decision. I booked a Sedan car for my round trip between the airport and the city centre, costing £46.70 in total, and it completely removed the stress of having to negotiate fares or hunt for a taxi on arrival.
My driver was waiting in the arrivals hall holding a sign with my name, and within minutes we were gliding out of the airport car park and onto the quiet nighttime roads towards the city. The return journey was just as smooth – punctual, comfortable, and a far calmer experience than trying to flag down a cab before a flight. It’s the kind of small travel detail that makes a surprisingly big difference, setting the tone for a relaxed start and end to the trip.
There’s something intoxicating about that first moment in a new country – when the unfamiliar becomes thrilling. The Cyrillic signs glowed under the streetlights and the road stretched into darkness towards the city.
Arriving at Chișinău International Airport on a very cold February night
Our one lonely plane was the only arrival in sight
Outside the front of the airport where you can get a taxi to the city centre
Getting a new stamp inside my passport
Where to stay
For my recent trip to Moldova’s capital, Chișinău, I opted to stay right in the heart of the city at the Bernardazzi Grand Hotel & SPA (Strada Alexandru Bernardazzi 38).
I booked my four-night stay via Expedia for £316.56 (around £69.37 per night) in a Standard Single Room featuring a Queen-sized bed. The hotel’s central location made it an ideal base for exploring Chișinău on foot — many of the city’s main sights, cafés and restaurants are within easy reach.
The room itself was both modern and elegant, decorated in muted tones with plush furnishings that gave it a calm, boutique feel. The bed was comfortable, with crisp linen and soft lighting that made it easy to unwind after a day of sightseeing. The en-suite bathroom was sleek and contemporary, equipped with a walk-in shower, fluffy towels, and a generous range of toiletries.
There was also a smart TV and complimentary bottled water provided daily. Despite being located centrally, the room was both warm and blissfully quiet, thanks to good soundproofing and thick curtains, which kept the hustle and bustle of the city at bay.
The entrance to the Bernardazzi Grand Hotel & Spa
Inside the simple, yet warm and comfortable, fifth floor room at Bernardazzi Grand Hotel & Spa
The lack of a guardrail does make venturing out onto the balcony of your top floor room somewhat less appealing
One of the main reasons I chose this hotel was for its on-site spa facilities, which looked particularly inviting. Access to the spa must be pre-booked, so I arranged my session before leaving the UK. Each entry allows for three hours of use and costs 1,400 MDL (around £64) for one to two people. The spa itself is impressively designed — a tranquil, low-lit space complete with a heated pool, jacuzzi, Finnish sauna, steam room, and salt room.
Everything felt spotless and serene, and the staff were attentive without being intrusive. During my visit, I also booked a “general” 60-minute massage for 800 MDL (around £36), which turned out to be one of the highlights of my stay. The treatment was both relaxing and thorough, with just the right amount of pressure, leaving me feeling completely rejuvenated.
Overall, the Bernardazzi Grand Hotel & SPA strikes a great balance between luxury and value, especially considering its central location and range of facilities.
While it’s not the cheapest option in Chișinău, the comfort of the rooms and the quality of the spa experience make it a solid choice for travellers looking to combine city exploration with a touch of pampering.
The pool at the far end of the spa at the Bernardazzi Hotel and Spa
There are plenty of seats available even if it was busy
The jacuzzi is spacious and powerful
These heated seats are extremely comfortable plus there are drink-making facilities also in this room
The sauna is hot and helps you work up a sweat
Getting around
One of the easiest and most rewarding ways to get to know Chișinău is on foot. The city’s centre is compact, flat, and surprisingly green, making it perfect for wandering at your own pace. Wide boulevards shaded by tall trees connect the main attractions, from the elegant Cathedral Park and the striking Triumphal Arch to the bustling Central Market and the National Museum of History.
Walking allows you to appreciate the city’s contrasts – pastel-painted 19th-century buildings sitting alongside stark Soviet-era blocks, ornate Orthodox churches nestled between modern coffee shops, and leafy courtyards that suddenly open into lively public squares.
There’s something wonderfully unhurried about exploring Chișinău on foot. Most of the city’s key sights are within a two or three-kilometre radius, so unless you’re venturing to the outskirts, walking really is the best way to see and feel Chișinău’s character.
Walking the streets of Chișinău is both free and easy
For longer distances or when your feet need a break, Chișinău’s trolleybus network is the city’s most iconic and practical form of public transport. Operated by RTEC (Regia Transport Electric Chișinău), the system has been running since the 1940s and remains a vital part of urban life.
Today, there are more than 20 trolleybus routes crisscrossing the city, linking residential areas, universities, parks, and key landmarks such as the main train station and Stefan cel Mare Boulevard. The distinctive blue-and-white trolleybuses are hard to miss, gliding along electric lines that hum softly overhead.
A single ride costs just 6 MDL (about £0.26) – a refreshingly low fare that makes getting around incredibly affordable. To pay, simply board the trolleybus and hand your cash to the onboard conductor, who will issue you a small paper ticket as proof of payment. There’s something charmingly old-school about the whole experience; no contactless cards or smartphone apps here – just the satisfying simplicity of a traditional system that still works.
The trolleybuses run frequently throughout the day, usually from early morning until around midnight, and are generally punctual. They’re a great way to see the city from a different perspective, as routes wind through local neighbourhoods that you might not otherwise visit. It’s a relaxed, people-watching kind of journey – commuters, students, and pensioners all sharing the same space, the hum of conversation and the gentle rattle of the bus providing the soundtrack.
While Chișinău might not have the flashy transport systems of larger European capitals, its combination of walkable streets and an affordable, characterful trolleybus network makes getting around both easy and memorable – a fitting reflection of the city’s understated charm.
Trolleybuses run all over the city and are an affordable way to get around quickly
When you pay your 6 Leu, you’re handed a small paper ticket
The view from the front of a trolleybus
Top sites
Chișinău, may not be blessed with an abundance of tourist hot spots, but it offers plenty of rewarding places to explore for those willing to look a little closer. While it might not dazzle with grand landmarks, Chișinău’s charm lies in its quieter corners and authentic atmosphere. From tranquil green spaces to cultural landmarks and local gems, there are several great places to visit that reveal the city’s unique character and easy-going spirit.
This park is often considered one of the highlights of any trip to Chișinău — a place where nature and tranquillity come together just a short distance from the city’s busy centre.
Located in the Buiucani district, to the northwest of the capital, this beautifully landscaped park stretches across roughly 83 hectares and serves as Chișinău’s largest and most diverse botanical garden. It’s a local favourite for quiet walks, morning jogs and weekend picnics, offering a peaceful contrast to the city’s lively cafés and Soviet-era boulevards.
When I visited Dendrariu Park in February, it had a different kind of beauty — a quiet, wintry stillness that made the park feel almost like a secret garden. The trees stood bare against the pale sky, the ponds were edged with a thin layer of ice, and the paths were calm and uncrowded. Even without the lush greenery of spring or the colour of summer blooms, there was a peaceful charm to it all, a reminder that nature has its own rhythm in every season.
What makes Dendrariu Park so special, even in winter, is the sheer variety of plant life it holds. The collection includes more than 1,800 species of trees and shrubs from across the world, arranged to create a living museum of global flora.
Among the park’s more remarkable residents is a Ginkgo biloba tree — a species that dates back over 200 million years and stands as a symbol of endurance and renewal, fitting for a place that feels alive even in its quietest months.
The park’s thoughtful layout makes it perfect for slow exploration. Wide walking paths wind their way between open meadows and clusters of trees, while benches are thoughtfully placed for those who wish to sit and take in the scenery. Unlike some of the city’s more formal green spaces, Dendrariu feels organic and lived-in, with just enough wildness to make it feel authentic.
For visitors, entry to Dendrariu Park is very affordable at just 10 MDL for adults, (approximately £0.42). There are few cafés or food stalls within the grounds, so it’s a good idea to bring water or a snack if you’re planning to stay a while.
To make the most of your visit, it’s worth arriving in the morning or late afternoon, when the park is quieter and the light is especially beautiful for photography.
The view across the frozen landscape of Dendrariu Park
A statue of Jesus in Dendrariu Park
The contrast of the green space of Dendrariu Park and the industrial backdrop of the city is quite stark
When I visited the Nativity Cathedral (as it is translated) in February, the square in front of the cathedral was almost empty apart from a few people heading to work or stopping to light a candle. The air was crisp, the bare trees lining the square lending a sense of quiet, and the cathedral’s white façade stood out beautifully against the pale winter sky.
Built in the early 1800s, it is one of Chișinău’s best-known landmarks, with its simple neoclassical design, tall Doric columns, and domed roof. Inside, the atmosphere is peaceful, with soft light filtering through the windows, the scent of incense lingering in the air, and the walls lined with traditional Orthodox icons. Even in the depth of winter, there is a feeling of warmth and welcome for those who step inside.
The cathedral has witnessed much of the city’s history. It was damaged during the Second World War, repurposed as an exhibition hall during Soviet times, and later restored in the 1990s to reflect its original grandeur. Visiting in February gives the building an extra sense of stillness and contemplation.
Without the usual summer crowds, it’s possible to take in the full scale of the architecture and the quiet dignity of the surrounding square. Standing there, it’s easy to imagine the cathedral at different moments in history, watching the city around it change and evolve while it remains a constant presence.
The way towards the modest but neat Nativity Cathedral
The Nativity Cathedral against the blue backdrop of the crisp Chișinău sky
The inside of the Nativity Cathedral is small but ornate
Just across the square from the cathedral stands the Triumphal Arch, another of Chișinău’s central landmarks. Built in 1840 to commemorate the Russian Empire’s victory in the Russo-Turkish War, the arch is a simple but elegant structure of white stone, topped with a clock that has long kept time over the city’s central square.
In February, with the frost still on the ground and the streets quieter than usual, the arch looks especially striking. The crisp winter light highlights its clean lines, and without crowds, it’s easy to appreciate how it frames the view of the cathedral beyond, linking the two landmarks visually and historically.
Walking beneath the arch, the dome of the cathedral is perfectly framed through its central opening, a view that feels carefully composed even in the quiet of winter. The square itself, usually bustling in warmer months, feels open and peaceful, giving space to pause and take in the details of both buildings.
Visiting the Nativity Cathedral and the Triumphal Arch is very straightforward, and entry costs are minimal. The cathedral itself does not charge an admission fee, so you can step inside to admire the architecture and icons without any expense.
The Triumphal Arch is also free to approach and walk around, allowing you to take in its full scale and photograph the view of the cathedral through its central opening without paying anything. This makes both sites particularly appealing for visitors in February, when the streets are quieter and you can explore at your own pace without worrying about entrance charges.
Together, the cathedral and arch capture something essential about Chișinău: a city that doesn’t overwhelm visitors with flashiness or spectacle, but draws you in with its calm atmosphere, architectural charm, and a sense of history quietly present in every corner. Even on a cold February afternoon, it’s easy to feel the heart of the city beating through these central landmarks.
Looking back from the cathedral you’ll see the Triumphal Arch near the road
The flag of Moldova flies proudly in the background behind the Triumphal Arch
The museum sits in the city centre, near the Valea Morilor area, housed in a striking Moorish-style building that stands out immediately among Chișinău’s mix of Soviet and modern architecture. Its ornate façade, with patterned brickwork and arched windows, is reason enough to stop for a photograph, but it’s what’s inside that really makes this place worth visiting.
Founded in 1889, the museum is the oldest in Moldova and covers everything from the country’s natural landscapes to its folk traditions and archaeological finds. It’s the kind of museum that feels like several experiences in one — part natural history, part cultural archive, part time capsule.
On the ground floor, there are impressive displays of local wildlife and geology, including an enormous skeleton of a prehistoric mammoth discovered in Moldova, which dominates one of the main halls. Upstairs, the focus shifts to ethnography, with carefully curated exhibits that explore the daily lives, crafts and costumes of Moldovan communities through the centuries. The displays range from traditional clothing and handmade tools to reconstructions of rural interiors, offering a vivid picture of life in Moldova’s villages long before the modern era.
Visiting in February meant the museum was pleasantly quiet. I wandered through the galleries at my own pace, often with entire rooms to myself. The stillness of winter outside seemed to match the calm inside — a space where time slows down and the stories of Moldova’s land and people come to life. The museum’s staff were friendly and welcoming, happy to answer questions despite the language barrier, and the exhibits, many with English translations, were easy to follow.
Entry is very affordable: just 50 MDL for adults, (around £2.20), and even less for students and children. Considering how much there is to see, it’s excellent value for money and a great way to spend an hour indoors on a cold day. The building also has a small courtyard and garden area, which I imagine would be lovely to explore in warmer months.
The impressive frontage of the National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History
This mammoth is an impressive exhibit within the museum
The museum is spacious and well organised. However, there is a lack of English which makes it slightly more challenging
Located along Strada Pantelimon Halippa, slightly south of the centre, the complex stands as a tribute to the soldiers who lost their lives during the Second World War. The memorial was inaugurated in 1975 to mark the 30th anniversary of victory, and its bold design still carries a powerful sense of symbolism and respect.
At the heart of the complex rises a 25-metre-high pyramid formed by five stylised rifles that meet above a five-pointed star. Beneath the star, an eternal flame burns continuously, honouring those who fought and died. The five rifles are said to represent the five years of the war, from 1941 to 1945, and the structure’s symmetry gives it a calm but commanding presence.
Surrounding the main monument are marble slabs and sculpted reliefs that depict scenes from the conflict, while engraved names along the walkways serve as a lasting reminder of the human cost of war.
The atmosphere here is peaceful and reflective. Even though the site sits near one of the city’s main roads, there’s a quiet stillness that sets in as soon as you walk among the monuments. The broad paths, clean lines and open space invite visitors to pause and take in the memorial’s scale. The flame itself is surprisingly moving — small but steady, flickering at the centre of the vast stone plaza.
There’s no entry fee to visit the the site, and it’s open to the public year-round. It’s an easy walk or short taxi ride from the city centre, making it a convenient stop for anyone exploring Chișinău.
The striking home of the Victory Memorial and Eternal Flame
These facades of military scenes line the park around the memorial
I’ll be honest, it was minus 14 when I took this and I could barely feel my face and fingers
Tucked away in the Buiucani sector of Chișinău on Bulevardul Ștefan cel Mare și Sfânt, the Abandoned Observatory of the Pioneer Palace looms as a strange and evocative relic of the Soviet era. Once part of the city’s “Palace of Pioneers” — a centre for after-school programmes and youth astronomy classes — the building later fell into disuse and decay, leaving behind a dome with broken metal panels, graffiti, and open views down to the city.
Stepping up to the dome’s circular base, you’ll notice the rusted track of the mechanism that once rotated the roof, and at the centre stands the pedestal where a telescope once pointed to the stars.
From this vantage point, the panoramic views over Chișinău are unexpectedly compelling — much of the original machinery is gone, but the spirit of experimentation and curiosity that once animated the space lingers in the cracked concrete and peeling paint.
It’s also the kind of place that raises a few practical questions. The building is in a fragile state and tours aren’t formally organised, so if you choose to visit, prepare for uneven floors, exposed edges and a sense of unofficial access.
Whether you go for urban-exploration vibes, photography or just a quirky stop-off, the abandoned observatory offers a window into a side of Chișinău many visitors don’t see — the remnants of a vision for youth, science and community that has quietly faded into the background.
The dilapidated remains of the observatory in Chișinău
You need to be very careful climbing the observatory as ladders like this are falling apart
Also, the concrete stairs that do remain lack handrails and some are fully exposed on each side exposing large drops. I’ll be honest, my legs felt a little unsteady at times when up high
Looking up through the ceiling that once housed the observatory
The inside housing of the observatory which has now been stripped of it’s original parts
The view out across part of Chișinău from the top of the observatory
As readers of my blog will know, I’m a keen football fan and try to visit local stadiums wherever I travel, so the chance to see the national stadium of Moldova wasn’t something I was going to pass up on.
Zimbru Stadium, located on Bulevardul Dacia in Chișinău’s Botanica district, is a relatively modern addition to the city’s sporting landscape. It opened in 2006 after just over two years of construction and has a capacity of around 10,000 seats, making it one of the country’s largest and most important football venues.
The stadium is home to FC Zimbru Chișinău, one of Moldova’s most well-known clubs, and regularly hosts matches for the national team. Even though I wasn’t there on a match day and could only see the outside, it was still worth the detour.
From the street, you get a clear sense of its scale — the curved roofline, the tall lighting towers, and the bright yellow and green colours of the club’s emblem give it real character. The surrounding neighbourhood is residential and low-key, so the stadium stands out as a bold, modern landmark among the apartment blocks.
Wandering around the perimeter, I found a few open gates that offered glimpses of the stands and pitch beyond. The place was quiet, with only a few locals passing by, but you could easily imagine the buzz of a full crowd on a match day. Even from the outside, Zimbru Stadium gives off a sense of pride — a reminder that football holds a special place in Moldovan culture – despite the struggles of their national team on the world stage.
It’s an easy spot to reach by taxi or bus from the city centre, and while there’s no entry unless a game or event is on, it’s still a fun stop for any football enthusiast. Standing there, peering through the gates at the national stadium, felt like a small travel ritual — another pin on the map for a football fan abroad.
While the stadium is closed, this is the best view you can get of the ground
Towards the rear of the stadium you can just about see into the ground
FC Zimbru’s logo emblazoned onto the side of the stadium they share with the Moldovan National Football Team
Part of the reason for my trip to Moldova was the chance to visit Transnistria — a breakaway region that has long intrigued travellers and geopolitics watchers alike.
It’s possible to visit on a day trip from Chișinău, and that’s exactly what I did. The journey takes around an hour and a half by car or bus, and while you don’t technically leave Moldova, it certainly feels like crossing into another country. You pass through checkpoints, show your passport and receive a temporary visitor permit, all overseen by uniformed border guards. It’s an oddly formal experience for a place that, on paper, doesn’t officially exist.
Arriving in Tiraspol, the capital of Transnistria, you immediately notice how different it feels from Chișinău. The streets are wide and neat, lined with Soviet-era apartment blocks, and there’s a distinct sense of order and pride. Statues of Lenin stand in front of government buildings, and the red-and-green Transnistrian flag — complete with hammer and sickle — flies prominently across the city. Russian is the dominant language, and the atmosphere is calm, almost frozen in another time.
Despite its unusual political status, Tiraspol is surprisingly peaceful and easy-going. The central Suvorov Monument, honouring the city’s 18th-century founder, dominates the main square, while nearby memorials to Soviet soldiers and the Afghan War lend the area a strong sense of history. There are a few cafés serving hearty local food, small markets selling inexpensive goods, and pleasant walks along the Dniester River. In some ways, it feels like a living museum of Soviet urban design — not staged or restored, just preserved by circumstance.
Visiting Transnistria is straightforward enough but does require a bit of patience and curiosity.
English isn’t widely spoken, and the local currency — the Transnistrian rouble — is only valid within the region, but for anyone interested in seeing a place with a truly unique political and cultural identity, it’s worth the trip. Spending the day there offered a fascinating glimpse into a world few tourists see, and it was one of the most memorable parts of my time in Moldova.
Exploring the impressive Bender Fortress inside Transnistria
Riding a huge metal ball inside the fortress
Transnistria uses its own currency – the Transnistrian Ruble – which cannot be obtained anywhere else outside of the region. You must exchange Moldovan Lei or Euros for some currency once you arrive. Remember only to get a small amount as you can’t change it back
Once in the city centre of Bender, you can try the food at the traditional Soviet canteen
The food is really hearty and tasty and only costs a few Transnistrian Rubles
Soviet-era trolley-buses still operate within Bender for local people to use
For my one day tour in Transnistria, I booked a guided tour from Chișinău, which cost £106.32 for one adult. It turned out to be just a tour for myself in the end which proved to be a great bit of luck.
The price covered hotel pick‑up, transport throughout the day, and a knowledgeable guide who accompanied us for the entire itinerary. Starting at my hotel in Chișinău, we drove east towards the breakaway region, passing through the border checkpoint where passports were checked and temporary visitor permits issued.
Once inside Transnistria, the tour included several key stops. We visited Tiraspol, the capital, where the streets, buildings and monuments are steeped in Soviet-era symbolism. Our guide provided context on the city’s history, politics, and culture, explaining why the region has maintained such a distinct identity over the decades.
We also stopped at Bender, home to an old fortress that offers insight into the area’s strategic importance and layered past. Throughout the day, the guide was on hand to answer questions, point out hidden details, and ensure the timing worked well so that the trip felt relaxed rather than rushed.
The transport itself was comfortable, with air‑conditioned vehicles and a small group that made it easy to interact and share impressions of what we were seeing. The pace of the day was ideal: enough time at each stop to explore, take photos, and appreciate the atmosphere, but not so long that it felt exhausting. Having a guided tour made the logistics much simpler, particularly given the unusual political situation in Transnistria, and allowed me to focus fully on experiencing the region rather than worrying about crossing the border, arranging local transport, or navigating unfamiliar streets.
By the end of the day, it felt like I had experienced a place frozen in a different time, yet very much alive. The combination of professional guidance, convenient transport, and carefully planned stops made it a memorable and smooth trip — one of the highlights of my visit to Moldova, and a fascinating insight into a part of Europe that few tourists ever get to see.
Arriving in the capital of Transnistria, Tiraspol, you can climb up on top of this former working tank at the Memorial of Glory
Looking across a frozen lake at one of the city’s many churches
A view across the city’s river; the Dnister River
A muriel on the outside wall of an apartment building in Tiraspol which once housed Soviet Cosmonaut, Yuri Gagarin
The city sign welcoming people into Tiraspol
The Soviet buildings that line the streets of Tiraspol are grand and impressive and take you back to yesteryear of Soviet times
My guide kindly induldged my football obsession and took me via the stadium of the most successful team in Moldova (well Transnistria); The Sheriff Arena, home of FC Sheriff Tiraspol
As part of my visit to Moldova, I booked two memorable day trips outside the city centre, and the second of these was a half-day biking a Guinness Book winery at the Mileștii Mici Winery which is famous for holding the world’s largest wine collection.
As a keen traveller who enjoys unique experiences, I couldn’t pass up the chance to explore this subterranean wine city. The tour cost £99.24 for one adult, covering transport, the biking experience, a guided tour, and a wine tasting.
The trip began with a short ride from my hotel in Chișinău to the winery in Ialoveni District. Once there, we were equipped with bikes to pedal through the limestone tunnels deep underground. The corridors wind past thousands of barrels and racks of bottles, with arched ceilings stretching overhead.
The underground network is enormous — over 200km in total — though only a small section is used for visitor tours. Cycling through these cool, dimly lit passages was a unique and almost surreal experience, giving a sense of the scale and ambition of Moldova’s wine culture.
After the biking portion, the guided wine tasting was a highlight. We sampled several local wines, paired with traditional bites such as bruschetta and regional desserts. The small-group format made the experience feel personal and relaxed, allowing plenty of time to ask questions and enjoy the atmosphere.
The combination of transport, cycling, guided exploration, and wine tasting made this a highly memorable outing. While the price might be on the premium side for a half-day excursion, the experience of pedalling through the world’s largest wine cellars and tasting Moldova’s finest vintages made it entirely worthwhile.
For anyone looking to get beyond Chișinău’s city streets and enjoy an unusual adventure, this biking tour is an excellent choice and a perfect way to explore the country’s rich winemaking heritage.
The entrance area of Milestii Mici Winery
These huge wooden barrels used to house wine, but are now just decorating the tunnels
Riding a bike through the tunnels is a fun way to explore this winery
The Moldovan people are incredibly proud of their wine production. In fact, 5% of all of Moldova is home to vineyards
The vaults of wine bottles appear to go on forever. Some of the oldest wine here was bottled in the 1960s
The map showing the vast network of caverns housing all the wine at Milestii Mici
Sampling a few of the wines on offer at the end of the tour with some accompanying snacks
Where to avoid
Chișinău is a reasonably safe city for tourists, and most visitors will find it welcoming and relaxed. Violent crime against foreigners is rare, and the city centre has a friendly, low-key atmosphere. However, travellers should still exercise a high degree of caution due to the volatile security environment linked to the ongoing conflict in neighbouring Ukraine, as well as a few local risks that are worth being aware of.
The most common problem tourists encounter in Chișinău is petty theft, particularly pickpocketing and phone and bag-snatching. These incidents are more likely to happen in crowded places such as the central market, on public transport, and at bus or train stations. It’s a good idea to keep your belongings zipped up, avoid displaying valuables, and stay alert when in busy areas.
At night, the city centre is generally safe and reasonably well-lit, but it’s best to avoid walking alone in poorly lit side streets or through quiet parks. If you’re heading home late, take a licensed taxi or use a ride-hailing app rather than walking. While most locals are friendly and helpful, a little extra caution goes a long way after dark.
Another thing to be mindful of is interaction with local police. There have been occasional reports of officers attempting to solicit bribes from tourists, particularly those unfamiliar with local procedures. To avoid any issues, carry a photocopy of your passport or other documents rather than the originals, and don’t hand over your actual passport unless absolutely necessary.
Because of Moldova’s proximity to Ukraine, the general security situation can change quickly, so it’s sensible to stay informed via official travel advisories before and during your trip. Travelling to the breakaway region of Transnistria, which lies beyond Moldovan government control, is strongly advised against by many foreign offices due to its unpredictable security environment.
When it comes to attractions within Chișinău itself, there aren’t many places that warrant avoiding entirely, but if you’re short on time, one site you could comfortably skip is the Alexander Pushkin Museum, located at Strada Anton Pann 19.
The small museum occupies the house where the famous Russian poet lived during his exile in Bessarabia. Inside, you’ll find a handful of exhibits including old editions of his works, sculptures, and decorative pieces connected to his time in the city. Entry costs around 30 MDL (about £1.30), with a small extra charge if you want to take photos (although they didn’t make me pay any extra during my visit), and most visitors find that a visit takes no more than 15 to 30 minutes.
While it’s an interesting stop for those passionate about literature or Russian history, the museum is quite modest and the displays are mainly in Russian and Romanian. For the average traveller, it may feel underwhelming compared to the effort of getting there, and with so few major attractions in Chișinău, it’s worth spending your time exploring the city’s parks, cafés and markets instead.
In short, Chișinău is a city where common sense and a bit of vigilance will keep you perfectly safe. Avoid walking alone late at night, keep an eye on your belongings in busy places, and take care with local authorities. Beyond that, relax and enjoy Moldova’s understated capital — and if you’re pressed for time, you can give Pushkin’s old house a miss without regret.
The entrance way into the small Alexander Pushkin House Museum
One of several Pushkin busts within the museum
As well as the house itself, there is a small exhibition area with a few displays
Inside Alexander Pushkin’s house
A bust of Pushkin is housed in the garden behind the house
Great places to eat
Chișinău has a surprisingly varied food scene, catering to every kind of traveller and budget.
The city’s culinary landscape reflects its blend of cultures — from traditional Moldovan dishes to European, Middle Eastern and American influences. During my visit, I discovered that Chișinău’s restaurants offer not just good food, but also an authentic window into the city’s lively and welcoming character.
The first place I’ll highlight is Grill House, a modern and vibrant restaurant that’s become a firm favourite among locals and visitors alike. Conveniently located on Armeneasca St 24, just a short taxi ride from the city centre and an even shorter walk from my hotel.
Grill House is easy to reach and makes a great stop for lunch or dinner after a day of exploring. The restaurant itself is stylish but relaxed, with exposed brick walls, soft lighting and an open kitchen that adds to the buzz of the dining experience.
As the name suggests, meat is the star of the show here. The menu focuses on grilled specialities — juicy steaks, ribs and kebabs — all cooked over an open flame. There’s also a good selection of burgers, pasta dishes, and salads for those seeking something lighter.
Great choices here are the tender beef steak with roasted vegetables, accompanied by a glass of local red wine from one of Moldova’s nearby vineyards. The flavours are excellent — smoky, rich, and perfectly balanced. For dessert, you can try their house-made cheesecake, which was creamy and not too sweet, a satisfying finish to the meal.
Prices are very reasonable by European standards. A main course typically costs between 250–450 MDL (around £11–£18), while a full three-course meal with wine will set you back around 600–800 MDL (around £25–£35) per person. The service is friendly and efficient making the whole experience smooth and enjoyable.
The rather opaque entrance that you can easily miss if you don’t expect it. Follow the corridor down into the doors at the far end to enter the restaurant
The local beer, Chișinău Blonda is worth a go – especially at just 48MDL (around £2.10)
Great steak and vegetables at a very reasonable price
A great apple strudel for dessert rounds the meal off nicely
Situated on Strada Alexandru Bernardazzi 66, Gastrobar is a stylish yet laid-back restaurant that’s earned a loyal following in Chișinău. The interior strikes a perfect balance between contemporary and cosy — think exposed brick, warm lighting and sleek wooden furniture — creating a relaxed atmosphere that feels just right for either a casual meal or a slightly more refined evening out.
The menu blends Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences, with a particular focus on dishes cooked over an open flame. Many items are prepared on a ceramic grill, which gives them that distinctive smoky flavour that defines the restaurant’s cooking style.
Expect to find grilled meats and fish, burgers, inventive vegetarian options, fresh salads, and vibrant small plates like baba ganoush and pumpkin chutney.
Prices are moderate, making Gastrobar a great value for the quality on offer. You can expect to pay around 200–400 MDL (about £9–£18) for a main course, with a full meal including a drink and perhaps a starter or dessert coming to about 300–500 MDL (around £13–£22) per person.
Gastrobar is an excellent choice for those looking for great food, good wine, and a relaxed, contemporary vibe in the heart of Chișinău.
Gastrobar is a great place to get some tasty food
A middle-eastern inspired starter
The burgers are so large they are difficult to actually eat! However, they are delicious
Nestled on the corner of Pușkin, 20B and Strada Bucureşti 67 in Chișinău, Taifas invites you into an atmosphere rich with Moldovan tradition and hospitality. The restaurant occupies a charming old house that evokes the feel of a rural village home — rustic furniture, traditional embroidery, clay pottery and wood-panelled touches combine to create a warm, hearty setting that’s as much about character as cuisine.
The focus here is authentic Moldovan fare served with a side of culture. Dishes to seek out include vine-leaf sarmale, polenta with sheep’s cheese, rich meat stews, and satisfying desserts just like grandma used to make. Many menus highlight the experience of sharing food and stories — and you’ll often find live folk music to enhance the mood.
In terms of cost, Taifas is slightly up-market compared to some casual cafés in the city but still very reasonable by Western standards. One overview suggests a price-range around 150–300 MDL per person (around £7–£14) for a comfortable meal.
Expect mains to start somewhere in the lower hundreds of MDL, with drinks or dessert adding on. The service was friendly and attentive, and English is generally understood — booking ahead is a good idea if you’re visiting during the evening when live music begins.
The entrance to Taifas from the street
Stuffed cabbage is a surprisingly tasty appetiser
A filling main course of chicken dumplings, noodles and potatos
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Riga, the grand old lady of the Baltics, has long appealed with its mix of baroque grandeur, Art Nouveau elegance, and the everyday rhythm of a modern European capital.
It’s a city that has seen centuries of change – from its days as a medieval trading hub in the Hanseatic League, through periods of independence and occupation, to its place today as Latvia’s vibrant heart. That history is impossible to ignore.
Gothic church spires still dominate the skyline, pastel-coloured façades line the Old Town, while leafy boulevards showcase some of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Europe.
Alongside these reminders of the past, Riga has the confidence of a city looking forward, with thriving food, arts and cultural scenes giving it a modern edge.
A view across a wintery Riga skyline
And so, what should first-time visitors to Riga know before venturing into the Latvian capital?
The first thing to consider when planning a trip to Riga is the weather, as it plays a big part in shaping what your days will look like. The city has a classic northern European climate, with cold winters, mild springs, warm but not overly hot summers, and a fair share of rain spread across the year.
Average highs sit around 22–24°C (72–75°F) in July and August, while in January and February they can dip to just above freezing, with lows closer to –5°C (23°F).
I visited Riga in December, when the city takes on a distinctly wintry feel. We did this on purpose so we could explore the Christmas markets in Riga as well as it being part of our plans to visit all the Baltic states of Estonia, Lithuania and Latvia.
Daytime temperatures hovered around 1 °C (34 °F) and dropped just below freezing at night, to about –1 °C (30 °F). Snow and sleet weren’t constant, but there was enough to coat rooftops and slick the cobbles, giving the Old Town a crisp, muted atmosphere. Short daylight hours meant planning was important, as much of the exploring needed to be done before darkness fell in the late afternoon.
For anyone travelling at that time of year, packing sensibly is essential: a warm coat, gloves, a scarf, and shoes with good grip will make a big difference. The cold does add its own charm, though. There’s something about moving between frosty squares, steaming cups of coffee in cosy cafés, and the glow of the Christmas market that makes Riga in December feel both inviting and memorable.
Riga on Google Maps
The next thing to get comfortable with before heading to Riga is the currency. Latvia uses the Euro (€) – a change made a decade ago when it replaced the lats in January 2014. As for the exchange rate, at the time of writing, £1 GBP buys you about €1.16.
When it comes to paying, credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard in particular) are widely accepted across Riga – restaurants, museums, hotels, and most shops will take them. In more local or rural spots, or at market stalls, cash may still be king, so it’s sensible to carry a few euros on you. A smart tip – avoid the temptation to pay in pounds if given the choice at a card terminal (a practice called dynamic currency conversion). Always opt to pay in euros – your bank will give you a much better rate.
Also, tipping in Latvia is polite but not rigid. In restaurants, cafés, and bars, around 10% in cash is the norm if you’ve enjoyed things. Rounding-up the bill by a euro or two is fine too, especially when paying in cash – and the staff will appreciate it more than a card tip. For taxi drivers, rounding-up is perfectly acceptable. For porters or hotel housekeeping, leave a Euro or two- it’s thoughtful, even though it’s not expected.
One of the easier parts of travelling to Riga is the lack of any real time adjustment. Latvia sits just two hours ahead of the UK (GMT+2, or GMT+3 during daylight saving time), so there’s no jet lag to contend with. It means you can land, drop your bags, and head straight out to explore without worrying about your body clock lagging behind – a welcome bonus, especially on a shorter trip.
The next thing to consider is how to keep your devices charged. In Latvia, power plugs and sockets (outlets) of type F are used. The standard voltage is 230 V at a frequency of 50 Hz and you will need a power plug travel adapter if your appliances use a different plug type.
Although Latvia may feel a little unfamiliar at first, language is rarely a barrier for visitors. The national language is Latvian, a Baltic language that shares some features with Lithuanian but is distinct from the Slavic and Germanic languages spoken in neighbouring countries.
Russian is also widely spoken, particularly among older generations, reflecting Latvia’s history, while English is increasingly common, especially in Riga where tourism and younger Latvians mean you’ll usually get by without difficulty.
Still, learning a few local phrases is always appreciated. “Hello” in Latvian is Sveiki, while “goodbye” is Uz redzēšanos. To be polite, “please” is Lūdzu, and “thank you” is Paldies – a simple word that will earn you plenty of smiles.
One final thing to think about is how you’ll stay connected during your time in Latvia. While roaming within the EU is straightforward for most European travellers, visitors from the UK may find charges creeping back in, and picking up a local SIM card isn’t always the most convenient option on a short trip. That’s why I recommend considering an eSIM before you go – it makes staying online simple and reliable throughout your stay.
Services like Airalo make the process easy. You download the app, purchase a data plan for Latvia (or the wider Baltic region), and activate the eSIM on your phone before you travel. The moment you arrive, your phone connects to a local network without any fuss, saving you from scrambling for wi-fi or juggling SIM cards. It’s a hassle-free way to keep your maps running, check the forecast, or share snapshots of Riga’s spires and markets while you’re on the move.
With these essentials in mind, I was ready to set out on my journey – one that would guide me through unfamiliar streets, introduce me to new ways of experiencing a city in winter, and immerse me in the rich history and everyday charm of Riga.
Getting there
Riga had been on my travel radar for years – a Baltic gem with cobbled streets, pastel façades and a skyline punctuated by elegant spires. It’s a city that blends history and creativity in equal measure, with art nouveau architecture, cosy cafés and a thriving cultural scene that make it one of Eastern Europe’s most underrated city breaks.
But before wandering through the Old Town, I had to get there – and thankfully, reaching Latvia’s capital from the UK is far more straightforward than you might think.
Riga International Airport (RIX) is the main gateway to Latvia and the largest air hub in the Baltic states, welcoming around 5.6 million passengers a year. It sits about 10km southwest of Riga’s city centre, roughly a 20-minute drive or taxi ride away, making it incredibly convenient for travellers eager to hit the ground running.
The airport is modern and efficient, with a calm atmosphere that reflects Riga’s laid-back charm, and it’s well connected to several cities across the UK. At the time of writing, you can fly to Riga from London Gatwick, London Stansted, London Luton, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds Bradford, Edinburgh, and Bristol, with airlines such as Ryanair, Wizz Air, airBaltic and Jet2 offering direct services.
For my trip, I chose to fly from London Stansted with Ryanair, which offered both a convenient schedule and an unbeatable fare. My return ticket came to £111 per person – a great deal for a European city break.
The direct flight from Stansted to Riga takes around two hours and 35 minutes, whisking you from the bustle of Essex to the edge of the Daugava River in no time. As expected with Ryanair, the service was no-frills but punctual, and check-in was quick and uncomplicated.
I boarded early in the morning, watched the London suburbs fade beneath a blanket of cloud, and just over two hours later found myself landing in Latvia, greeted by crisp Baltic air and a surprisingly efficient passport queue.
From the airport, it’s easy to reach the city – local buses and taxis run frequently, and you can even take a Bolt ride straight to your accommodation for a reasonable fare. Stepping out into Riga, with its mix of medieval charm and modern energy, I couldn’t help but feel that the journey had been refreshingly smooth. For a short-haul hop that delivers so much culture, character and warmth, a flight to Riga is hard to beat – and at just over a hundred pounds return, it’s an easy choice for a European escape.
Inside the departure area of Riga International Airport
Where to stay
Riga is packed with charming hotels, but for our stay in the Latvian capital we checked into the Grand Palace Hotel Riga, a five-star property in the heart of the Old Town at Pils iela 12, Centra rajons, Rīga, LV-1050, Latvia. Just a short stroll from the river and the city’s main attractions, it’s an ideal base for exploring this compact and picturesque capital.
Technically, we paid €107 (about £93) for a night here, but in truth, our stay was a little sweeter than that — we were fortunate to have two nights complimentary, following a complaint from a previous year when a sister hotel in Tallinn failed to honour a booking. So, three nights in total, with only one paid night – a small redemption for a previous travel hiccup!
From the moment we arrived, service was polished and professional, the kind you’d expect from a member of the Schlössle Hotel Group. Our Deluxe King Room was spacious, elegantly decorated and exceptionally comfortable, offering everything from fast Wi-Fi to a well-stocked minibar. The bathroom was equally impressive, with plush towels and high-end toiletries.
Breakfast was served in the hotel’s restaurant, an Art Deco-inspired dining room that felt more like a private club than a hotel restaurant. The food didn’t disappoint: a generous spread of hot and cold options, from eggs to fresh pastries and fruit, all beautifully presented and replenished regularly.
The hotel’s location couldn’t be better — close to the Daugava River, Riga Castle and Dome Square, with cobbled streets and cosy cafés right on the doorstep. After a day exploring the city’s mix of Art Nouveau architecture and festive Christmas markets, returning to the warmth and calm of the Grand Palace felt like a treat.
Overall, the Grand Palace Hotel Riga offers a refined and comfortable stay in a superb location, with friendly service and a touch of old-world charm. It’s not cheap, but for those looking for luxury in Latvia’s capital, it’s well worth the splurge — or in our case, even better when two nights are free!
The rooms are spacious and comfortable
A branded coffee at the Grand Palace Hotel Riga
Getting around
During our trip to Riga, we landed at Riga International Airport, which sits just under 10km from the city centre. Getting into town is straightforward, and you have a few options depending on how you like to travel.
The most convenient choice is a taxi, which takes around 20 to 30 minutes to reach the centre and costs roughly €15 to 20 (about £13 to 17). If you prefer public transport, the airport bus (No. 22) runs regularly and drops passengers near the Old Town in about half an hour, with tickets costing just a few euros.
Once you’re in Riga itself, the city is best explored on foot.
The Old Town is compact and pedestrian-friendly, with cobbled streets, colourful façades, and a wealth of sights packed into a small area. Walking allows you to appreciate the details you’d miss from a taxi window.
Riga’s public transport system is reliable and inexpensive, with buses, trams, and trolleybuses connecting the Old Town to other districts. Tickets can be bought at kiosks, on trams, or via mobile apps, and most journeys cost just a few euros.
While you rarely need them for central sightseeing, they’re useful for visiting areas like the Art Nouveau district, the Central Market, or Riga’s parks along the Daugava. For those wanting a bit more flexibility, bikes and e-scooters are widely available to rent, offering a fun way to cover longer distances while still feeling the city’s pulse.
Riga is a pedestrian friendly city and easy to walk around
Top sites
A great way to start a trip to Riga is with a visit to the Latvian Academy of Sciences Observation deck. Located at Akadēmijas laukums 1, just across the river from the Central Market and within easy walking distance of the Old Town, this striking Soviet-era landmark is one of the city’s most recognisable buildings.
Often nicknamed “Stalin’s birthday cake” because of its grand, tiered design, it offers not only a glimpse into Riga’s history but also some of the best panoramic views in the city.
Tickets cost €8 (around £7) per adult, and children under 12 can visit for free. After purchasing our tickets at reception, we took the lift to the 15th floor before climbing a short set of stairs to reach the open-air terrace on the 17th floor, roughly 65m high. The climb was quick and easy, and the moment we stepped outside, we were greeted with sweeping 360-degree views of Riga in all its glory.
From the top, we could see the red rooftops and slender church spires of the Old Town, the Central Market’s distinctive pavilions, and the Daugava River glistening as it curved through the city. The modern silhouette of the National Library stood proudly on the opposite bank, and on a clear day, the view stretches far beyond the city centre. It’s the kind of place where you naturally slow down, take a deep breath, and appreciate Riga’s unique blend of old-world charm and modern development.
The open-air terrace can get a little breezy, so a jacket is recommended. There’s no time limit on your visit, so we stayed for a while, taking in the view from every angle before heading back down.
The Latvian Academy of Sciences which houses the observation deck
A view across the river and the city from the view point
Latvian Academy of Sciences Observation deck is one of the best points in the city to get a view from
As readers of this blog will know, I’m a big fan of escape rooms — so when we found ourselves in Riga, it was only natural that we booked a session at Escape Room Riga, located at Lāčplēša iela 43/45. We opted for the Old Captain’s Cabin experience, which promised a nautical twist on the classic escape room format, full of mystery, codes and hidden clues.
We booked in advance for two players to make sure we could secure our preferred time slot. The price was €25 per person (around £21.50), which felt very reasonable for an hour-long adventure that was both challenging and great fun.
The venue was easy to find, just a short walk from the city centre, and we received a warm welcome from the team on arrival. After a quick briefing, we were led to our room — a detailed ship’s cabin, complete with weathered wood, nautical instruments and a few atmospheric creaks that really set the scene.
The game itself was cleverly designed, with each puzzle naturally leading to the next. It required strong teamwork and communication to stay on course, and we loved the mix of logic-based challenges and hands-on tasks.
What really stood out was how smoothly the experience ran. The staff were friendly and gave clear instructions before the game started, and they were available via intercom if we got really stuck. The puzzles struck a good balance between challenging and achievable, keeping the game exciting right up to the final moments. When we finally escaped (just in time!), we couldn’t help but feel a little triumphant.
Visiting Riga is a delight for any traveller, and one of the best ways to get to know the city is by taking the Old Riga Free Walking Tour run by Riga Free Tours. The tour begins at the entrance to St Peter’s Church, right in the heart of the Old Town and runs several times a day, usually around 10am, 12pm, and 3pm, and lasts about one hour and forty-five minutes.
While the tour is free to join, it operates on a tip-based system, so at the end you can decide what the experience was worth. A typical tip might be €10 to (around £11.35 per person), depending on the size of the group and how much you enjoyed the guide’s storytelling.
The walk covers many of Riga’s key historic landmarks. You’ll start at St Peter’s Church and explore Town Hall Square, the House of the Blackheads, Dome Square with its impressive cathedral, the Powder Tower, and the Swedish Gate. Along the way, the guide will point out hidden corners of the Old Town that are easy to miss on a self-guided walk, offering fascinating insights into the city’s medieval past, its architecture, and how the area functions today for both locals and visitors.
It’s important to arrive a few minutes early, wear comfortable shoes, and dress for the weather, as the tour stays outdoors and the cobbled streets can be uneven. The tour is relaxed and interactive, giving you the chance to ask questions and really get a feel for the city.
By the end of the walk, you’ll not only have seen many of Riga’s most famous sights, but also gained a sense of the stories, history, and atmosphere that make the Old Town such a special place to explore.
The walking tour will take you around a lot of the Old Town
You’ll also see how the modern era is connecting the Old Town of the city to the new
One of the most memorable days of our trip to Latvia was the tour we took with Eat Riga, a small local company that offers a brilliant range of alternative tours around the city and beyond.
They’re known for their street art walks, Soviet history excursions and food experiences that give visitors a real taste of everyday life in Riga. When we booked, Eat Riga also ran a special combo tour to Skrunda and Kuldīga – an itinerary that’s no longer available today.
We arranged the trip directly with the team over email, who confirmed a price of €80 per person (around £68) including hotel pick-up and drop-off, a private guide, and all transport for the day. Our guide collected us from the Grand Palace Hotel in Riga at 9am for the journey west through the Latvian countryside.
The first stop was Skrunda, once home to a secret Soviet radar station and later an abandoned military town after the fall of the USSR. For years it stood frozen in time, its apartment blocks and control towers slowly crumbling amid birch trees and silence.
At the time of our visit it was still possible to explore the empty streets and buildings, offering a haunting glimpse into Latvia’s Soviet past. Since then, however, the entire area has been closed to the public and repurposed by the Latvian military, making access impossible.
What made Skrunda so unforgettable was the eerie sense of having an entire city to ourselves. Walking through empty streets lined with crumbling apartment blocks felt like stepping into a post-apocalyptic film set — silent, still, and strangely captivating. We could wander freely in and out of buildings, climbing staircases and peering and exploring rooms that once housed families, offices, and communal spaces.
Faded wallpaper, discarded furniture, old photos and children’s drawings on the walls gave haunting glimpses into the lives once lived there. It was both unsettling and fascinating, an experience unlike anywhere else — a moment suspended in time before the town was reclaimed by nature and, later, the military.
The deserted streets of the once thriving Skrunda
You could explore inside any building you wanted to at the time
The haunting images of some of the former inhabitants still lined the apartment’s walls
After leaving Skrunda, the tour continued to Kuldīga, one of Latvia’s prettiest small towns. It’s famous for its red-roofed old houses, cobbled streets and Europe’s widest waterfall, the Ventas Rumba, which stretches dramatically across the river in the centre of town. There’s also a charming old brick bridge and plenty of cosy cafés to stop in before the drive back to Riga.
Although Eat Riga no longer runs the Skrunda and Kuldīga combo, they still offer a fantastic selection of history-focused and off-beat tours. Whether it’s exploring forgotten corners of the capital or discovering Latvia’s rural heritage, their guides bring genuine enthusiasm and knowledge to every experience.
Taking a climb inside an abandoned tower in Skrunda
A look at how family life in Skrunda used to be
The tranquil scenery at Kuldīga
Where to avoid
Riga is a wonderfully walkable, welcoming city that feels safe and relaxed for visitors. Latvia’s capital has a relatively low rate of violent crime compared with many other European cities, and most travellers find exploring its cobbled streets and riverside neighbourhoods a worry-free experience.
That said, like anywhere popular with tourists, there are a few things to be aware of — mainly petty theft and small-scale scams around busy areas and transport hubs. Keeping an eye on your belongings, avoiding unlicensed taxis, and being cautious of overly friendly strangers offering unsolicited help are simple precautions that go a long way.
If you’re short on time during your trip, one spot that you can comfortably skip is Riga Central Market. The market is a vast complex of old Zeppelin hangars filled with food stalls, souvenir sellers, and everyday goods. It’s a huge part of local life and fascinating in theory, but, in my opinion, doesn’t quite live up to its promise.
While it’s interesting to see the scale of the place, much of what’s on offer is quite ordinary — fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and clothing stalls that you’ll find in most European cities. It lacks the atmosphere or curated feel that makes markets in other capitals real highlights.
There’s nothing wrong with Riga Central Market at all — it’s clean, functional, and an authentic slice of city life. But if your time in Riga is limited to just a day or two, you’ll get far more out of wandering through the Old Town or crossing the river to explore the Art Nouveau district. The market is best left for those with a slower itinerary who want to see Riga beyond the postcard sights.
Great places to eat
Riga has plenty of interesting restaurants to discover to cater to all budgets and tastes but when I went I made sure to carve out time to visit Singh’s, a lively and polished Indian restaurant located at Pulkveža Brieža iela 2, Centra rajons.
The restaurant sits right in the heart of the city, making it an easy stop after a day of exploring. I booked a table for two in advance and requested a spot on their second floor to ensure we could dine at our preferred time. The upstairs setting turned out to be a perfect choice – slightly quieter than the ground floor, with a relaxed atmosphere ideal for conversation.
Singh’s prides itself on serving authentic Indian cuisine made with high-quality ingredients. The menu offers a wide selection of starters, mains, sides, breads and desserts, all well presented and full of flavour.
The service was warm and attentive throughout our meal, with dishes arriving promptly and each course nicely paced. The food itself did not disappoint – rich curries, tender meats and fragrant spices that felt genuinely authentic, yet not overpowering.
In terms of price, Singh’s offers good value for the quality and portion sizes. Starters range from around €6–10 (approximately £5–8), while mains are typically between €12–15 (around £10–13).
For something more substantial, the “Singh’s Mixed Grill Deluxe for Two” is €23 (about £20–21), and cocktails such as the “Singh’s Chilli Martini” are around €8.50 (roughly £7–8). The overall cost for a meal for two, including drinks, felt very reasonable given the standard of food and service.
Singh’s is both central and popular, so booking ahead is definitely recommended. Whether you’re after a laid-back dinner after sightseeing or a more polished evening out, this spot offers a memorable taste of India right in the middle of Riga.
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The Faroe Islands, a remote North Atlantic archipelago, have long fascinated me with their rugged landscapes, dramatic cliffs, and the ever-changing weather that sweeps across the 18 islands.
Nestled between Scotland, Iceland, and Norway, this self-governing territory of Denmark has a rich history shaped by Viking settlers, fishermen, and the elements themselves.
Its capital, Tórshavn, is one of the smallest in the world, yet it has played a crucial role in the islands’ story for centuries. Named after Thor, the Norse god of thunder, Tórshavn has been a trading hub since the Viking Age, and today, it’s a charming blend of old-world traditions and modern Nordic life.
This trip was particularly special for me, as it marked my first adventure as a solo traveller – something I’d always wanted to try.
Exploring the Faroe Islands alone felt like the perfect challenge, a mix of freedom and self-discovery set against some of the most breathtaking natural scenery.
A traditional Faroese building set against the stunning background found across all of the islands
So what should first-time visitors to the Faroe Islands consider before departing to this rugged, wild and unpredictable destination.
The first and most important thing to prepare for, some may argue, is the weather. Even in June, the Faroe Islands don’t offer the kind of summer warmth you might expect elsewhere in Europe.
Average highs reach around 11°C (52°F), while lows can drop to a chilly 7°C (45°F). Rain is frequent, and the sky changes mood by the minute – one moment drenched in mist, the next bathed in golden sunlight. Waterproof gear and warm layers are essential for any visitor.
The Faroe Islands on Google Maps
This ever-changing climate has earned the Faroe Islands the nickname “The Land of Maybe”, a phrase that perfectly captures the unpredictability of life here. The weather can shift dramatically within minutes – what starts as a clear, sunny morning can quickly become a misty, windswept afternoon, only for the skies to clear again just as suddenly.
Locals have learned to embrace this uncertainty, often giving plans a flexible “maybe” rather than a definite yes or no, knowing that nature ultimately decides what’s possible. For visitors, this means packing for all conditions, expecting the unexpected, and learning to appreciate the beauty of the moment – whether it’s watching the fog roll over a mountain ridge or catching a fleeting glimpse of the sun glistening on the sea.
Another practical consideration is currency. The official currency is the Danish Krone (DKK), with an exchange rate of approximately 9 DKK to £1 GBP at the time of writing. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted, but it’s always handy to have a small amount of cash, especially when visiting remote villages or taking the ferry to smaller islands.
Also, tipping in the Faroe Islands isn’t a common practice, as service charges are typically included in restaurant bills, and wages for hospitality staff are generally fair. Locals don’t expect tips, but rounding up the bill or leaving small change as a token of appreciation for exceptional service is always welcomed.
In cafes and bars, tipping is rare, though a small gratuity won’t be refused. Hotel staff and taxi drivers also don’t anticipate tips, but rounding up the fare or leaving a few extra krone for helpful service is a kind gesture.
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in the Faroes is refreshingly easy. There’s no time difference between the UK and the Faroe Islands, so there’s no jet lag to contend with.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to pack a power plug adapter.
On the Faroe Islands, power plugs and sockets (outlets) of type F and type K are used. The standard voltage is 230 V at a frequency of 50 Hz. Yes, you need a power plug travel adapter for sockets type F and K on the Faroe Islands.
While the dramatic landscapes might make the islands feel remote, communication is rarely an issue. The national language is Faroese, a North Germanic language that shares grammatical similarities with Icelandic and Old Norse but has a pronunciation closer to Norwegian.
Danish is also an official language, and thanks to the islands’ connection to the UK and tourism growth, English is widely understood.
All that being said, learning a few local phrases is always appreciated. “Hello” in Faroese is Hallo, and “goodbye” is Farvæl. In Danish, you’d say Hej for hello and Farvel for goodbye. If you want to be polite, “please” in Faroese is Vinarliga, and “thank you” is Takk. In Danish, you’d say Vær så venlig for please and Tak for thank you.
One final to consider is how to keep remain in communication with the rest of the world during your stay. Staying connected can be tricky, as roaming charges can be expensive, and local SIM cards aren’t always convenient for short-term visitors. That’s why I highly recommend buying an eSIM before you go, ensuring seamless communication and internet access throughout your trip.
Services like Airalo make it incredibly easy – you just download their app, purchase a data plan for the Faroe Islands, and activate the eSIM on your phone before departure. Once you land, your phone will automatically connect to a local network, saving you the hassle of hunting for wi-fi or dealing with SIM swaps. This way, you can navigate remote roads, check the weather, and share your stunning photos without a hitch!
With these essentials in mind, I was ready to embark on my journey – one that would push me beyond my comfort zone, introduce me to new ways of travelling, and immerse me in the breath-taking beauty of the Faroe Islands.
Getting there
The Faroe Islands had long been on my travel wish list – that cluster of remote, weather-swept islands in the North Atlantic where dramatic cliffs plunge into the sea, tiny turf-roofed houses cling to hillsides, and sheep outnumber people.
Add to that, a visit to this wonderfully windy group of islands gave me the opportunity to add another sticker to my European Langford Water Bottle!
It’s the kind of destination that promises solitude, raw nature, and a sense of stepping far off the beaten track. But before I could experience any of that, I had to figure out how to actually get there! Because, as it turns out, reaching the Faroe Islands from the UK isn’t quite as simple as hopping on a direct flight.
While cruise ships occasionally call in at the Faroes, particularly during the summer months, I knew I wanted to spend proper time exploring the islands at my own pace. For that, flying is definitely the best option. However, there are very few direct flights from the UK – and most are seasonal, with limited availability.
My journey began very early in the morning at London Stansted, boarding a Ryanair flight to Copenhagen. This leg took around 1 hour and 45 minutes and, in true Ryanair fashion, was very much a no-frills experience.
The budget airline is famous for its strict baggage policies, bare-bones service and speedy boarding process. That said, my flight was on time, the check-in was straightforward, and at that point I was just excited to be on my way. For a short hop like this, Ryanair does the trick – just don’t expect luxury.
After a brief stopover in Copenhagen – one of Europe’s most efficient and pleasant airports (albeit lacking in phyical seating) – I boarded my second flight, this time with Atlantic Airways, the national airline of the Faroe Islands.
This leg took approximately 1 hours and 55 minutes. From the moment I stepped onto the plane, it felt like the tone of the trip had shifted. Atlantic Airways had a much more relaxed, welcoming vibe, with friendly cabin crew and a calm, efficient boarding process.
And then there were the views. Green cliffs, tiny villages, and glimmering sea in every direction – it was honestly one of the most memorable landings I’ve ever experienced.
We touched down at Vágar International Airport, the Faroes’ one and only commercial airport. It’s small – you won’t find dozens of gates or a shopping mall here – but it’s perfectly equipped for the number of flights it handles each day.
Around 400,000 passengers pass through Vágar every year, and the airport has a laid-back, unhurried charm that matches the rhythm of island life. Situated just 1.9km (about 1.2 miles) east of the village of Sørvágur on the island of Vágar, and about 46km (29 miles) west of the capital, Tórshavn, it’s well positioned for easy onward travel across the islands.
My return journey took a different route, offering a new perspective on travel to and from this incredible archipelago. I flew from Vágar to Edinburgh with Atlantic Airways – a short and smooth flight of about 1 hour and 25 minutes.
It’s amazing how quickly you can go from windswept cliffs and winding fjords back to the urban bustle of a UK airport. After a long wait in Edinburgh Airport (definitely bring snacks and a book), I boarded a final Ryanair flight back to London Stansted. This last leg took just 1 hour and 15 minutes.
In total, my flights for the trip – four in all – came to £439.48. For a solo adventure to such a remote destination, I thought it was a fair price. With a bit of flexibility, you might be able to shave some money off by shopping around or tweaking your travel dates, but it’s worth budgeting a little more for the convenience of well-timed connections.
Flying into the Faroe Islands on Atlantic Airways
First glimpses of the rugged Faroe Islands landscape while approach the airport
The small, yet efficient, Vágar International Airport on the Faroe Islands as seen from the plane window
Where to stay
When I was planning my trip to the Faroe Islands, the next question that followed how I was going to get there was where I was going to stay.
While the islands are scattered across dramatic fjords and cliffs, most visitors base themselves in Tórshavn, the capital and by far the largest “city” in the Faroes. I say “city” because, with a population of just over 20,000, it’s more of a charming coastal town than a buzzing metropolis – but it’s the beating heart of the islands nonetheless.
Tórshavn is located on the southeast coast of Streymoy, the largest of the Faroe Islands. It’s a natural hub for travellers, with a good range of shops and restaurants.
For most people visiting the islands – especially if, like me, it’s your first time – staying in or around Tórshavn makes perfect sense. From here, you can easily venture out to other islands in your car while still enjoying a cosy base to return to at the end of the day.
There are several central hotels in Tórshavn, including well-rated options like Hotel Hafnia, Hotel Brandan, and the Hilton Garden Inn. But I decided to go for something a little more personal and homely, booking this lovely AirBnB just outside the centre.
Located on Jóannesar Paturssonar Gøta, the apartment is set in a quiet residential area, around a 10-minute walk to the centre of Tórshavn. It’s a peaceful, well-kept neighbourhood – close enough to reach everything on foot, but far enough to feel like you’re living more like a local than a tourist.
One of the biggest perks was the easy parking available at the rear of the property, which made it super convenient for me to explore the rest of the islands by rental car without worrying about where to leave it overnight.
The apartment itself was clean, and well-equipped. It’s a one-bedroom space with a comfortable set of single beds, a functional bathroom with a good shower, a cosy living area, and a small but practical kitchen – perfect for preparing breakfast or a simple dinner after a long day of hiking or road-tripping, while the wi-fi was fast and reliable (useful for planning the next excursion).
I paid a total of £572.76 for four nights, which worked out to £143.19 per night. Given the location, amenities and overall comfort, I felt it was good value for money – especially compared to hotel prices during peak travel season in the Faroes.
One thing to be aware of if you’re travelling in June or the summer months is the near-constant daylight. The sun barely sets at this time of year, and even in the early hours of the morning, there’s often a soft glow outside – a version of the midnight sun.
I’ll admit, it threw me off a little at first. I found myself wide awake at 11pm thinking it was still early evening! It’s something you quickly get used to (the blackout blinds help), but it’s definitely worth knowing ahead of time if, like me, your body clock is a little sensitive to light.
A view of the comfortable bedroom area
The bathroom was small but functional
The spacious living and kitchen area
Getting around
Getting around the Faroe Islands is part of what makes travelling there such a unique experience. With rugged terrain, dramatic coastlines and small, scattered communities spread across 18 islands, having the freedom to explore at your own pace is a real advantage. Without a doubt, the best way to do that is by hiring a car.
At Vágar International Airport, just a short walk outside the main terminal, you’ll find a small building that houses several car hire companies. It’s easy to navigate and well signposted, with friendly staff and a range of vehicles available depending on your needs.
The car hire building at the airport is easy to locate
For my trip, I booked through RentYourCar.fo, a local provider with good reviews and clear options. I initially reserved a mini manual car, but on arrival I was given an automatic – which turned out to be completely fine for the driving conditions.
As part of my booking, I opted for a package that included premium insurance, portable wi-fi internet (super handy for navigation and staying online on the go), and a Sub-Sea Tunnel Pass, which covered tolls for two of the four undersea tunnels – Vágatunnilin and Norðoyatunnilin.
I hired the car for three days, and the full package came to 5,107 Danish Krone, which worked out at around £586. Not the cheapest rental I’ve ever had, but well worth it for the peace of mind and freedom to explore.
A car will take you across the main connected islands with ease, thanks to a network of bridges, tunnels and causeways. However, some of the more remote islands (which I didn’t visit this time) can only be reached by boat or ferry, so if you’re planning to go further afield, it’s worth factoring that in.
In the Faroe Islands, you drive on the right-hand side of the road, which is important to remember if you’re coming from the UK. Fortunately, the roads are generally very quiet, even in Tórshavn, and the driving experience is a calm one overall.
Speed limits are fairly clearly marked and easy to follow. However, the rule of thumb is that it’s 50 km/h (31 mph) in built-up areas, and 80 km/h (50 mph) on main roads and in tunnels. In some spots, the limit drops to 60 km/h (37 mph), so it’s worth keeping an eye on the signs as you go.
Most roads are well maintained, even in more remote areas, but they can become windy and narrow, especially when climbing through mountain passes or hugging the coastline.
Passing oncoming vehicles can require a little caution and cooperation, particularly on single-lane roads with passing places.
The only real hazard to watch for is the sheep – and there are plenty of them. They roam freely and sometimes decide the middle of the road is the perfect place for a rest, so a bit of patience and a gentle brake foot go a long way.
Parking on the Faroe Islands is generally straightforward and stress-free, especially when compared to busier European destinations. In most towns and villages, including Tórshavn, you’ll find free public parking spaces available, though some areas in the centre may require a parking disc (usually provided with your hire car) to show your arrival time, as time restrictions can apply.
Outside of the capital, parking is even easier, with many viewpoints, hiking spots, and attractions offering ample space to leave your vehicle. During my trip, I never struggled to find a spot, and having free and convenient parking at my Airbnb made exploring by car all the more enjoyable.
One of the engineering marvels of the Faroe Islands is the series of Sub-Sea Tunnels that connect various islands beneath the ocean floor. These are vital links in the road network and can save you a huge amount of time and effort compared to relying on ferries.
Map showing the four Sub-Sea Tunnels connecting parts of the Faroe Islands. Credit for map from http://www.cryopolitics.com
There are four main Sub-Sea Tunnels in the Faroe Islands. The Vágatunnilin connects Vágar – where the airport is located – to Streymoy, the island that’s home to the capital, Tórshavn. A round trip through this tunnel costs 100 Danish Krone, which is about £11.50. The Norðoyatunnilin links the islands of Eysturoy and Borðoy and is priced similarly, also costing 100 DKK for a round trip.
The Eysturoyartunnilin is a particularly impressive feat of engineering, connecting Streymoy and Eysturoy via a tunnel that features the world’s only undersea roundabout – a slightly surreal and futuristic experience when you first drive through it. The toll here depends on which part of the route you use: a journey from Streymoy to Eysturoy (including Tórshavn) costs 175 DKK one way or 350 DKK for a return, while the shorter Saltnes to Strendur route is 125 DKK for a round trip (about £14).
Approaching the world’s only Sub-Sea roundabout in Eysturoyartunnilin
Driving to – and part of the way around – the world’s only Sub-Sea roadabout
Lastly, the Sandoyartunnilin – the newest addition to the network – connects Streymoy to the island of Sandoy. A return journey through this tunnel will set you back 350 DKK, roughly £40.
These tolls can add up, so if you’re planning to use multiple tunnels, it’s worth seeing whether your car hire company offers a tunnel pass or a prepayment option as part of the rental – as mine did.
All in all, having a car made exploring the Faroe Islands not just easier, but one of the highlights of the trip.
A standard small car like this is perfectible suitable for a drive around the Faroe Islands
The scenery that you see while driving makes the journey just as enjoyable as the destinations
Parking is never a problem and there are always plenty of spaces either in car parks or by the side of the road
Top sites
Tórshavn
This part of the blog takes a look at some of the great places I visited during my time in the Faroe Islands. To make things easier to follow, I’ve broken it up by the main islands I travelled around during my stay. But before we get into those, the capital city itself definitely deserves its own section.
Tórshavn is home to just over 20,000 people, making it not only the capital but also the largest and busiest place in the country. It sits on the southeast coast of Streymoy and acts as the administrative and cultural heart of the islands.
While it’s small by most standards, it’s where most visitors – including myself – choose to stay, thanks to its convenience, comfort and laid-back charm.
It’s a great place to return to each evening, and a perfect starting point for discovering everything else the Faroe Islands have to offer.
Looking up at the city of Tórshavn from beside the harbour
One of the first stops for most people – and indeed one of the most picturesque and historic corners of Tórshavn – is Tinganes, a narrow peninsula that juts out into the harbour and feels like stepping back in time.
This is one of the oldest parts of the city – and one of the oldest parliamentary meeting places in the world, with a history dating back over a thousand years.
Wandering around Tinganes is a real highlight. The area is full of turf-roofed wooden buildings, painted in deep reds and blacks, that line narrow cobbled lanes and lean into each other like something from a storybook.
These days, the buildings are home to parts of the Faroese government, but you’re free to stroll through the area at your own pace. It’s incredibly quiet, peaceful and atmospheric, with little to break the silence beyond the occasional seabird or flapping flag.
It’s not a big area—you can walk around Tinganes in fifteen minutes if you’re not stopping—but it’s well worth taking your time to soak it all in.
The traditional buildings making up the Tinganes
Proudly flying the Faroese flag from the end of the Tinganes
The next stop is the nearby fortress of Skansin which is perched on a small hill just a short walk from the harbour in Tórshavn, and it’s one of the most striking landmarks in the city.
Built in the 16th century to defend against pirate attacks, the fort has been rebuilt and expanded over the years, and even served as a British military base during the Second World War.
Today, Skansin is a peaceful spot that’s open to the public, free of charge. It offers brilliant views across the harbour and out to sea, as well as back over the city itself. The walk up is easy and only takes a few minutes from the town centre, making it a perfect quick stop when exploring the capital.
On the grounds you’ll find remnants of the old defensive walls, a few rusting cannons, and a striking white lighthouse that still operates today.
While there isn’t a museum or much in the way of signage, the site has a quiet charm and a sense of history that’s easy to appreciate.
The fortress is free to enter and easy to access at all times of day
The lighthouse is the focal point of the fortress
The next stop is Tjóðsavnið (Faroe Islands National Museum), which sits on Brekkutún 6 in the Hoyvík suburb of Tórshavn – just a short drive or pleasant walk from the city centre.
It’s a small but thoughtfully curated museum made up of three distinct parts: the main Permanent Exhibition, the Open-Air Museum at Hoyvíksgarður, and the historic whaling station at Við Áir (the latter is only open on summer weekends and located a short distance outside the city).
The Permanent Exhibition offers a fascinating overview of the islands’ natural and cultural history – from ancient geological formations and native wildlife to Viking artefacts and medieval wooden pews rescued from the Kirkjubøur church. It’s not overly large, but it’s well presented and brought to life with helpful displays and an audio guide that ties together the Faroese story with warmth and detail.
Just down the hill from the main museum building is Hoyvíksgarður, a reconstructed early 20th-century farmstead designed to show what rural Faroese life was like in generations past.
While I did visit both the Permanent Exhibition and the open-air site, I skipped the whaling station entirely and, truth be told, I wasn’t that fussed by the open-air museum. It was quaint enough, but perhaps best appreciated if you’ve not already seen much of the real Faroese countryside.
Entry to the museum costs 80 Danish Krone for adults (around £9.20), or 50 Danish Krone for students and seniors (about £5.75). The ticket is valid for a week and includes entry to all three parts of the museum, should you wish to visit them across different days.
The low-key entrance to Tjóðsavnið
The exhibitions inside are interesting and a good way to spend an hour or so
For those seeking a little touch of luxury should check themselves in for a Faroese massage experience.
Nestled beneath the striking turf-roofed Ress Spa at Hotel Føroyar, is one of the most luxurious wellness experiences you can enjoy in the Faroe Islands.
Set high in the hills just above Tórshavn, it offers sweeping views of the city below and the surrounding wild landscape – views that alone are worth the trip. It feels a world away from the wind and sea spray, a peaceful and beautifully designed retreat where everything slows down the moment you step inside.
I decided to treat myself to a one-hour full-body massage as a bit of a post-hike indulgence and, at 950 Danish Krone (around £111), it was definitely a splurge – but one I don’t regret.
The massage was expertly delivered, tailored to my preferences, and incredibly relaxing. The treatment rooms are serene and warmly lit, with calming music and just the right amount of Faroese minimalist charm. It was a full hour of pure bliss and the perfect way to recover from a few days of brisk sea air and exploring mountain roads.
Ress Spa offers a full menu of treatments, from facials and body scrubs to hot stone therapies and spa rituals, and also has thermal experiences such as saunas, plunge pools, and a relaxation area. I didn’t book any of these extras but, had I had the time, they did sound extremley inviting.
What I did enjoy, however, was the stylish spa lounge before and after my treatment. It’s a quiet, cocoon-like space with soft lighting, ceiling-suspended chairs, herbal teas, fruit-infused water, and a selection of healthy snacks – ideal for easing into or out of a treatment.
There’s a real sense of calm here, which makes it feel like time briefly stops. If you’re looking for a restorative moment during your trip, Ress Spa is a wonderful place to slow down and soak up a different side of the Faroe Islands.
Inside one of the extremley comfortable massage rooms
The lounge area has these hanging chairs which are comfortable if a little difficult to get in and out of
Streymoy
One of the unforgettable experiences on the Faroe Islands is a puffin watching boat trip, and for this I highly recommend booking with Puffin.fo. You can easily reserve your place online before you go, with tickets costing 398 Danish Krone (about £45).
The boats depart from Vestmanna harbour, a charming small port town on the west coast of Streymoy. From there, the tour lasts around two hours, cruising along the dramatic cliffs and rugged coastline that the Faroe Islands are famous for.
During the trip, you’ll get up close to nesting puffins — those iconic, colourful seabirds — as well as other birdlife that populate the cliffs.
The boat also takes you past spectacular sea caves and towering rock formations, offering breathtaking views from the water. It’s a fantastic way to see the islands from a different perspective, combining wildlife spotting with some stunning natural scenery.
The guide and the ship’s captain are knowledgeable and passionate, sharing interesting facts about the puffins and the local environment as you sail.
Whether you’re a keen bird watcher or simply someone who appreciates raw natural beauty, the boat trip offers a unique and memorable experience.
The boat arriving to take the group on the bird watching trip
Looking up at the rugged Faroe Island coastline
One of the many birds you get to see on the two-hour boat trip
The coastline is stunning to see up close from the boat
Fossá is the largest waterfall in the Faroe Islands – plunging approximately 140 metres (around 460 feet) down the cliffs – and is truly a sight to behold.
Located near the village of Haldarsvík on Streymoy, this impressive cascade tumbles dramatically down the cliffs into the fjord below.
One of the best things about Fossá (apart from it being free to visit) is that you can actually climb up the rocks beside the waterfall to get really close to the rushing water. I took this opportunity myself and found it exhilarating — the roar of the water and the incredible power of nature right in front of you is an unforgettable experience.
From this vantage point, you also get stunning views back out across the nearby water and surrounding rugged landscape, making it a fantastic spot for photos or just soaking in the wild Faroese beauty. Just be cautious on the rocks as they can be slippery, especially after rain.
Standing in front of the impressive Fossa waterfall
Looking up at the sheer height of the waterfall
Fossa is the Faroe Islands largest waterfall
You can climb right up to near the waterfall, but be carefull as the rocks are slippery and loose
Not far from the village of Kvívík, you’ll find the Kvívík Viewpoint — a fantastic spot to take in some truly breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding fjords and mountains.
It’s a relatively easy drive from Tórshavn, making it a convenient stop if you’re exploring the western part of Streymoy.
The viewpoint sits perched above the village itself, offering sweeping vistas across the lush green valleys, rugged coastline, and the small settlements scattered below.
There’s a simple gravel car park near the viewpoint (which is free to use), so it’s easy to pull up, take some photos, and enjoy the fresh sea air without a long trek. It’s an ideal spot to pause and appreciate the raw natural beauty that the Faroes are famous for.
The Kvívík Viewpoint gives great views of the village the the surrounding scenery
Heading north on Streymoy, Tjørnuvík is a charming and picturesque village. It’s the northernmost village on Streymoy’s coast and one of the Faroe Islands’ oldest settlements.
Getting there involves a scenic drive from Tórshavn, usually via the Eysturoyartunnilin tunnel to Streymoy and then along the coastal roads – a journey that reveals some of the islands’ stunning natural landscapes along the way.
The approach to Tjørnuvík involves a memorable stop at what feels like the world’s longest set of traffic lights. The narrow road down the mountainside is only wide enough for one car at a time with no passing points, so if you arrive at the wrong moment, you might face a lengthy wait. Thankfully, the wait time is clearly shown on a visible countdown timer on the traffic lights, helping to manage expectations as you wait your turn.
Tjørnuvík is famous for its dramatic setting, nestled between steep, towering mountains and a black sand beach facing the open Atlantic. The contrast between the rugged cliffs and the tranquil sea is striking, making it a favourite spot for photographers and nature lovers. The village itself is small, with a handful of traditional grass-roofed houses and a quiet, peaceful atmosphere that’s a welcome escape from busier towns.
One of the highlights here is the view of the iconic sea stacks, Risin and Kellingin, which legend says are trolls turned to stone by the sunlight. The village also has a quaint café where you can enjoy a coffee or light snack while soaking in the spectacular views.
Traditional houses in the village of Tjørnuvík
Looking back at the village of Tjørnuvík from the beach
Vágar
If you’re looking for a stunning first or last stop on your Faroe Islands itinerary, Trøllkonufingur – which translates to “Witch’s Finger” – is an ideal choice. It’s located on the island of Vágar, not far from the airport, and makes for a brilliant short excursion either just after you land or just before you leave.
The location is easy to reach by car, taking around 10 minutes from Vágar Airport. You’ll find a small layby near the village of Sandavágur, where a marked path leads you up towards the viewpoint.
The walk itself is fairly easy and takes about 15 to 20 minutes each way, depending on the weather and your pace. It’s not a strenuous climb, but the trail can be uneven and exposed in places, so sturdy footwear is a good idea. That said, I did it in trainers!
The reward at the top is a sweeping view across the ocean and a dramatic sight of Trøllkonufingur rising like a crooked finger out of the cliffs below. According to local legend, the formation is said to be the finger of a witch who tried to cast a spell on the islands, only to be turned to stone – just one of many myths that add to the Faroes’ atmospheric appeal.
I’d recommend visiting when the sky is clear (or at least dry), as the viewpoint really comes alive in good visibility. There’s no cost to visit, no facilities, and very few people – just a peaceful moment in nature, right at the edge of the North Atlantic.
Trøllkonufingur is known as the Witches Finger
The dramatic coastline where Trøllkonufingur is located
Sørvágsvatn– often referred to as the Lake Above the Ocean – is one of the Faroe Islands’ most iconic natural sights.
Located on the island of Vágar, just a short drive from the airport, it’s a popular spot for visitors hoping to see the famous optical illusion where the lake appears to hover hundreds of metres above the sea.
The walk to reach the main viewpoint, which also includes the impressive Bøsdalafossur waterfall cascading directly into the Atlantic Ocean, is a paid hike that starts near the village of Miðvágur. Entry costs 200 Danish Krone (around £23.50) and the roundtrip takes about two hours.
I decided to make this my final stop before flying home – a last adventure before heading to the nearby airport. In theory, this seemed like a great plan. In reality, however, it was somewhat derailed by a sudden change in the weather. It rained for the entirety of my visit and, regrettably, I hadn’t dressed for the occasion – a light rain jacket, jeans, and trainers with next to no grip turned out to be a poor choice.
For the first part of the trail, the conditions were manageable – the path was mostly flat, though my feet got increasingly wet from little streams that criss-cross the hillside.
But things took a turn as I neared the end. The incline became steeper, the rocks slick, and the lack of a clear trail made things genuinely perilous. You’re completely exposed to the elements out here, and the strong wind near the cliff edges made standing close to the edge a nerve-wracking experience.
Unfortunately, visibility was poor so the panoramic views of the lake and waterfall weren’t at their best – although still atmospheric in their own misty, windswept way.
The return leg wasn’t much easier – I lost track of the path and had to scramble over several large boulders before finding my way back. Still, despite finishing the hike completely soaked and slightly bruised, I was glad I’d made the effort. On a clear day, this would be a highlight of any Faroe Islands trip – just make sure you come prepared.
The hike along Sørvágsvatn is fairly long – around 3km each way
Reaching the end but struggling with the wind and rain
Sørvágsvatn is known for the Lake Above the Ocean
Sandoy
Heading south via the Sandoyartunnilin to Sandoy, you’ll find the peaceful village of Húsavík nestled on the island’s northern coast.
The Sandoyartunnilin is the newest of the Faroes’ sub-sea tunnels, connecting the larger island of Streymoy with Sandoy, and the drive through it feels like a journey into somewhere more remote and untouched. Once you emerge on the other side, things immediately feel quieter – slower – and Húsavík is a perfect example of that calm.
The village is small and still, with colourful houses scattered along a hillside overlooking the sea. It has a quiet beauty, surrounded by farmland and ocean views, and offers a lovely contrast to the busier streets of Tórshavn. There’s not much in the way of shops or cafés – in fact, it felt like I had the place to myself – but that’s part of its charm.
There’s a small church and some other classic Faroese buildings to admire, and while it won’t demand hours of your time, it’s a lovely stop if you’re exploring Sandoy or simply want to soak up some unspoilt scenery.
This church is the main focal point of the tiny village of Húsavík
Continuing your journey through Sandoy, heading southeast from Húsavík, you’ll eventually reach Dalur – a tiny village at the end of the road; quite literally.
The drive there is dramatic and steep at times, winding past rolling hills and cliffs before suddenly dropping into a lush green valley that feels entirely hidden from the rest of the island.
Dalur, which means “valley” in Faroese, is perfectly named. It’s surrounded by towering slopes on three sides, with the fourth opening out onto the North Atlantic. The village itself is made up of just a few houses, a simple church, and a small stream running through the grass. It’s one of the most remote-feeling places I visited during my stay – quiet, isolated, and utterly peaceful.
I wandered down to the shoreline out as far as I could along the harbour where black-sand meets jagged rocks. It feels like the end of the world in the best possible way – simple, beautiful, and memorably remote.
Dalur was the most southernly point I made to while driving around the Faroe Islands
Eysturoy
To reach the island of Eysturoy, you’ll need to travel through the Eysturoyartunnilin; the tunnel that connects Streymoy, the island with the capital, Tórshavn with the western edge of Eysturoy (making use of the aforementioned Sub-Sea roundabout.
The tunnel is just under 12km long and takes you deep beneath the fjord, emerging on the other side with access to a wide range of towns and villages, including the likes of Runavík, Fuglafjørður and, of course, the picturesque village of Eiði further north.
Surrounded by mountains and perched on a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic, Eiði is small and quiet, with a population of just a few hundred people – but its setting is spectacular.
The drive in is worth the visit alone, with twisting roads that reveal panoramic views of the famous sea stacks Risin og Kellingin in the distance. Although you can’t walk directly to them from Eiði, you do get an excellent vantage point on a clear day – just pull over by the football pitch and admire the view from there.
During my visit, I took a gentle walk through the village, watched the waves crash against the rocks below, and simply enjoyed the peace.
The picturesque village of Eiði
Bordoy and Viðoy
From Eysturoy, reaching the Viðareiði – the northernmost settlement in the Faroe Islands – is a scenic and memorable drive that takes you through yet another of the country’s incredible sub-sea tunnels.
To get there, you’ll need to head north-east towards Leirvík, from where you’ll drive through the Norðoyatunnilin. This tunnel connects Eysturoy to the island of Borðoy and brings you out near the town of Klaksvík, the second-largest town in the Faroes.
From Klaksvík, the journey continues northwards, across winding mountain roads. As you cross a short causeway onto the island of Viðoy, you’ll follow the single road all the way to its end – where you’ll find the peaceful village of Viðareiði nestled between towering mountains and the North Atlantic.
Viðareiði itself is small and quiet, but striking in its isolation. It’s surrounded by dramatic cliffs, with the mountain of Villingadalsfjall rising steeply behind it. The church in the village – beautifully situated right by the water – is well worth a look, and on a clear day you can see over to the islands of Fugloy and Svínoy from the shoreline.
For more adventurous travellers, there’s an opportunity to hike to the summit of Villingardalsfjall, the mountain that towers above the village. This trek typically takes around three to four hours round trip, covers roughly 4.5 km (2.8 miles) and ascends some 840 m in elevation – something I sadly didn’t have time to do on this visit. However, be aware that access to the trail requires paying a 200 Danish Krone fee (about £22) in cash at a box by the trailhead.
For those like me though who want to get a glimpse of the top of the mountain, the nearby Viðareiði Viewpoint just before you reach the village offers a spectacular panorama across the neighbouring islands and open sea. The viewpoint provides a perfect place to stop and take in the sheer scale of the Faroese landscape.
Looking towards Viðareiði from the Viðareiði Viewpoint
There are a number of great views when you reach Viðareiði
Looking out over the water from Viðareiði
Faroe Islands football grounds roadtrip
This part of my Faroe Islands adventure was a little different. Rather than chasing waterfalls or puffins, I set out to see another of the islands’ major passions – football. Scattered across these dramatic landscapes are some of the most scenic football grounds in the world, each home to a team that played in the Faroe Islands Premier League in the 2024 season.
While I didn’t complete the route in one continuous journey – and the map I’m sharing shows it as one complete loop for reference – I did manage to visit every single Premier League ground (from the previous season) across my trip, including the Tórsvøllur national stadium in Tórshavn.
Each visit offered a unique glimpse into how deeply embedded the sport is within Faroese culture, even in the smallest and most remote of communities.
It’s worth noting that my list includes the stadiums for Skála ÍF and ÍF Fuglafjørður – both of whom were relegated at the end of the 2024 season. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to make it to either of the two promoted teams for 2025 – Tvøroyrar Bóltfelag and FC Suðuroy – as both are based on the southern island of Suðuroy, which can only be reached by ferry. That will have to wait for another visit.
Nevertheless, what follows is a whistle-stop tour of Faroese football, told through winding roads, seaside stadiums, and some of the most visually striking sporting venues you’re ever likely to see. Whether you’re a groundhopper, football fan, or just curious about what the beautiful game looks like in one of Europe’s most remote outposts – this journey is for you.
A potential roadtrip if you were to do it all in one go of 10 football stadiums (most being home to teams in the Faroes Premier League) as shown on Google Maps
Tucked away on the island of Vágar in the village of Sørvágur – just a short drive from the airport – á Dungasandi – home of 07 Vestur – one of the westernmost clubs in the Faroe Islands Premier League.
Formed in 2007 from the merger of FS Vágar and SÍF Sandavágur, the club represents the western part of the island and plays its home matches at the compact but neatly maintained á Dungasandi stadium.
The setting is instantly dramatic, with the pitch nestled beside steep cliffs and sweeping views out towards the North Atlantic.
The stadium itself is small but neat, with a couple of stands and a clubhouse on one side, and open views on the other. There’s something quite special about watching football here – the wind whipping in off the sea, the odd seagull swooping past, and a crowd that’s as passionate as it is intimate.
Standing pitch-side offered a good sense of the atmosphere – a quiet intensity in an otherwise remote landscape.
It’s also one of the easiest grounds to visit if you’re flying into the Faroe Islands. From Vágar Airport, you can be parked outside in around 10 minutes – making it an ideal first or last stop on a football-themed tour.
Near the airport lies the home of 07 Vestur
The stadium is set to the backdrop of beautiful hills
Leaving the west coast behind after visiting á Dungasandi – the strikingly located home of 07 Vestur – the drive to Tórshavn takes you east across Vágar, through the Vágatunnilin and onto the island of Streymoy. The journey is under an hour, but like much of the Faroe Islands, it’s packed with scenic drama: dramatic sea views, green mountainsides and the occasional sheep slowing you down along the winding roads.
As you reach the capital, it’s just a short drive up into the centre of town to find Gundadalur, home to two of the Faroe Islands’ biggest clubs: B36 Tórshavn and HB (Havnar Bóltfelag). HB, founded in 1904, is the oldest and most decorated club in the Faroes, while B36, established in 1936, has also enjoyed domestic success, particularly in more recent decades.
Rather than two separate stadiums, Gundadalur is a shared football complex with two main pitches and a scattering of club buildings and training areas nestled between them.
B36 and HB both compete in the top flight and, while fierce rivals on the pitch, they coexist in this shared space in an arrangement that’s surprisingly harmonious.
On matchdays, each side of Gundadalur takes on its own character – but even on quieter days, there’s something charming about strolling through the complex, surrounded by local houses and backed by the green hills that rise behind the city.
The stadium is situated right next to the national team’s stadium in the heart of Tórshavn
Gundadalur is shared by both B36 Tórshavn and Havnar Bóltfelag
Leaving Gundadalur behind, it’s just a couple of minutes’ walk across the football complex to Tórsvøllur , the modern home of the Faroe Islands National Football Team.
Nestled at the edge of Tórshavn, near the national swimming pool and sports complex, this compact but impressive stadium feels like a proper international ground – just on a much more intimate scale.
Unlike the other stops on my tour, this was the only ground where I actually saw a match. By sheer good fortune, my visit coincided with a 2026 FIFA World Cup qualification fixture, and I was lucky enough to join the local fans in watching the Faroe Islands beat Gibraltar 2–1 under the floodlights. The atmosphere was brilliant – passionate but friendly, and very much a community affair.
One of the more amusing quirks of the evening came from the home support behind the goal, who seemed to be working their way through a nostalgic playlist of late 1990s and early 2000s pop hits. With real enthusiasm, they belted out the likes of Backstreet’s Back by the Backstreet Boys – all while the game was in full flow. It gave the match a slightly surreal but thoroughly enjoyable edge.
Tórsvøllur itself is smart and well-kept, with a synthetic pitch with three sides of stands housing the fans. You can walk around part of the perimeter for other views, and the setting – like most stadiums in the Faroes – features dramatic hills in the background. There’s a small shop and refreshments area too where I grabbed a hot dog and a couple of bottles of beer, and it’s also only a short walk back into the centre of Tórshavn.
Tórsvøllur, the National Team home stadium is the largest capacity stadium in the Faroe Islands
Inside the national stadium as the Faroe Islands take to the pitch for their FIFA World Cup Qualifying match against Gibraltar
Leaving the capital behind, you can head east across the Eysturoyartunnilin – the impressive undersea tunnel complete with a glowing roundabout beneath the Atlantic – and make your way to Toftir, home of B68 Toftir.
Founded in 1962, B68 has enjoyed spells in the Premier League and even claimed league titles in the 1980s, forging a strong local identity and loyal fanbase.
The journey to the stadium takes around 40 minutes from Tórshavn and offers sweeping views of fjords and mountains as you climb up and over the spine of the island.
B68’s home ground, Svangaskarð, sits high above the village, and its elevated position means it offers some of the most dramatic views of any football pitch I’ve ever visited. The stadium has hosted the Faroe Islands national team in the past and was once the main ground for international matches before Tórsvøllur was built.
Unfortunately, during my visit the pitch was fully covered, so there was no grass in sight – just protective sheeting stretched across the surface. It was hard to tell whether it was due to maintenance, reseeding, or simply shielding it from the unpredictable weather, but it meant the ground felt a little less alive than it might have.
That said, the location itself is undeniably striking – perched on a plateau above the fjord, with the ocean visible in the distance and steep cliffs rising around it.
Even without a match on, it’s easy to imagine the kind of atmosphere a game here could generate on a windy afternoon (fun fact a unique rule allows a second player to hold the ball during set-pieces to counteract the strong winds prevalent in the islands; the only place in the world this rule is in place) with the local fans cheering from the stands.
The small Svangaskarð stadium has only a few seats
At the time of my visit the pitch was covered over to protect the grass
From Toftir, it’s a short and scenic drive to Runavík, where you’ll find Við Løkin, the home of NSÍ Runavík.
Founded in 1957, NSÍ has grown into a respected Faroe Islands Premier League side, regularly competing at the top level and nurturing local talent, all while maintaining close community ties.
The journey to the ground takes just 10 to 15 minutes along the coastline of Eysturoy, with views across the fjord and rolling green hills that make the Faroe Islands such a pleasure to explore by car.
The ground itself is tucked in beside the water, with a picturesque setting that’s typical of Faroese football. While relatively modest in size, Við Løkin has a strong sense of character – a close-knit local ground where you can imagine the stands filling quickly on match days as the community turns out to support their team.
One of the charming quirks of Við Løkin is the rather makeshift appearance of the dugouts. Constructed with what looks like simple plywood and timber, they sit awkwardly beside the pitch like an afterthought – but add to the no-frills, grassroots charm of the place. It’s a reminder that while the football here is competitive, the infrastructure often reflects the island’s scale and simplicity.
You don’t need to spend long here to appreciate the peaceful surroundings and how the stadium blends into the rugged beauty of the landscape. The ground is easy to access, just off the main road through town, and parking is straightforward.
The view from behind the goal at the quaint Við Løkin stadium; home of NSÍ Runavík
The dug-outs appeared to be not the best constructed that you’d ever see
From Við Løkin, you can carry on towards Sarpugerði, the home ground of Víkingur Gøta. This ground stands out for its openness and accessibility — unlike some stadiums where the pitch feels distant, here you can easily stroll right onto the grass.
During my visit, I spotted a few footballs casually left near the side-lines and couldn’t resist taking a few pot shots at goal myself. It was a surprisingly fun and laid-back way to connect with the local football culture, something that’s a hallmark of Faroese football grounds.
Víkingur Gøta is a club with an interesting history despite being quite young. Formed in 2008 by the merger of two clubs, Gøtu Ítróttarfelag and Leirvík ÍF, it quickly established itself as a major force in Faroese football. Since then, Víkingur Gøta has regularly challenged for top honours in the Premier League, winning several league titles (including the 2024 league) and cup competitions.
The club is well supported locally and prides itself on developing talent and maintaining strong ties to its community. Visiting Sarpugerði offers a real sense of that club identity — a place where football feels very much grounded in local pride and passion.
A view from the side of the road of Víkingur Gøta’s home stadium, Sarpugerði
A view down the centre line at the ground’s main stand
With the stadium so open, you can easily get onto the pitch to have a closer look around
With a few footballs left on the pitch, I took the opportunity to score a couple of goals
From Sarpugerði, your road trip takes you northeast to Við Djúpumýrar, the home of KÍ Klaksvík — the second-largest town in the Faroes and a true footballing hotbed.
This stadium is the northern-most football stadium I was visiting and it has a charming, traditional feel about it but with well-maintained facilities. During my visit, I was able to step straight onto the grass and even have a seat in the dugouts — which are practical and sturdy, giving you a real sense of what it’s like to be part of the action on match day.
KÍ Klaksvík is steeped in history and success, being one of the oldest and most decorated clubs in Faroese football.
Looking over the lovely Við Djúpumýrar arena, home of KÍ Klaksvík
The ground has a good seating area around most sides
The view of the game would be good, but the backdrop would make it special
From Við Djúpumýrar, your roadtrip takes you south to Í Fløtugerði, the home stadium of ÍF Fuglafjørður.
Nestled in the town of Fuglafjørður on Eysturoy island, this ground might be one of the smaller and less flashy venues compared to some of the others you’ve visited, but it carries a deep sense of local pride and history and from the top of the hill is one of the most pictureesque in the country.
Despite being one of the two clubs relegated from the Faroe Islands Premier League at the end of the 2024 season I still decided to stop by and see what it had to offer.
The stadium itself offers a very intimate experience. The ground is modest, and the facilities straightforward, but the closeness of the pitch to the spectators makes for a real connection between players and fans. You can almost feel the community’s passion radiating from every corner of the ground. It’s clear that football here is as much about bringing people together as it is about the sport itself.
Fuglafjørður is a relatively small town, and the club serves as a focal point for local identity and pride. Visiting Í Fløtugerði gives you a genuine insight into grassroots Faroese football — the kind of place where generations of families have cheered on their local heroes, rain or shine (mostly rain I would guess). This close-knit support is a stark but beautiful contrast to the more commercialised football experiences found elsewhere in the world.
It’s a shame that the stunning home of IF – Í Fløtugerði – no longer plays host to Faroe Island Premier League games following the side’s relegation in 2024
Leaving Í Fløtugerði behind, the road leads you to Í Hólmanum, the new home of EB/Streymur, located in the charming village of Eiði on the island of Eysturoy.
Í Hólmanum sits nestled against a dramatic natural backdrop, with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and sea, giving it a uniquely scenic atmosphere. The pitch itself is well maintained and the stadium offers a comfortable space for spectators, with some covered seating and good amenities. It’s easy to see that EB/Streymur take pride in their home ground and the experience they offer to both fans and visiting teams.
The club itself is an interesting one, formed from the merger of two local teams in 1993 — Eiðis Bóltfelag and Streymur. This union has helped solidify their position in the Faroese football scene, and the new stadium is a symbol of their progress and unity. EB/Streymur have often been competitive in the Premier League, and their modern facilities match that level of ambition.
The stadium’s accessibility means you can easily wander around the pitch and it feels like a club deeply connected to its community but also looking ahead, balancing tradition with modernity.
í Hólmanum stadium in Eiði is the new home of EB/Streymur
The í Hólmanum stadium only has one main stand for supporters
From Í Hólmanum, your journey continues north along Eysturoy’s winding roads to Undir Mýruhjalla – the home of Skála ÍF. Located in the quiet village of Skála, this stadium marks the final stop on the tour of the 2024 Faroe Islands Premier League grounds – and the second home of a team that was relegated at the end of the season, alongside ÍF.
Undir Mýruhjalla is a modest but endearing ground. With a small main stand and a well-kept pitch. There are few frills here – no big screens, no elaborate facilities – but it’s this simplicity that makes it feel so authentic. You’re not just watching football here – you’re standing right in the heart of a small, passionate community.
The stadium sits in a beautiful location, framed by green hills and with views stretching out across Skálafjørður. It’s the kind of place that feels peaceful, yet still retains a quiet intensity.
Stopping here feels like closing a loop – from the national stadium in Tórshavn to this intimate local ground on Eysturoy. It’s a perfect reminder of how deeply embedded football is across even the smallest and most remote corners of the Faroe Islands.
The small Undir Mýruhjalla is home to Skála ÍF
Where to avoid
One of the great things about the Faroe Islands is how safe and welcoming they are. As a solo traveller, I never once felt uneasy or out of place, even when wandering remote villages or empty roads late into the bright evenings.
That said, while almost every corner of the islands has a rugged charm, there are a few places that, although pleasant enough, probably don’t warrant going out of your way to visit—especially if your time is limited.
One such place is The Nordic House in Tórshavn. This striking modern building, with its sloping grass roof and Scandi architecture, is a cultural centre that hosts exhibitions, performances and other events celebrating Nordic culture.
On paper, it sounds like a must-see — but unless there’s something actually happening there, which there wasn’t during my visit, there’s very little to do. With a lack of exhibitions the atmosphere was more like a quiet library than a buzzing hub of culture.
The on-site café, while pleasant and clean, didn’t do much to liven things up either.
The breakfast offering was modest — think boiled eggs and a coffee — hardly worth the walk unless you’re staying nearby and desperate for something simple to start the day.
It might be worth checking the events calendar in advance, but if there’s nothing on, I’d suggest prioritising your time elsewhere.
The outside of The Nordic House blends the old-fashioned building design found in the Faroe Islands with a modern stylish and airy twist
Inside The Nordic House shows it’s a fairly empty space when there are no exhibitions or shows on
The next one is Svartafoss Waterfall, also known as the “Black Waterfall,” which sits just a couple of kilometres north of central Tórshavn in the Hoydalsá valley.
It sounds appealing — a peaceful waterfall not far from the capital — but in reality, it didn’t quite live up to expectations during my visit.
The area itself is calm and pleasant enough for a short walk, with a small path leading to the waterfall and a few sheepfolds dotted about, but it felt more like a casual city park than one of the Faroe Islands’ striking natural landmarks.
If you happen to be nearby or are keen for a gentle stroll, it’s a fine spot to pass through, but I wouldn’t go out of your way to visit.
Svartafoss Waterfall is attractive but only worth seeing if you’re nearby
The Saga Museum offers a glimpse into Faroese history and features 17 lifelike wax figures set in intricately recreated scenes — from the arrival of the first Norse settlers and tales of Irish monks right up to more recent centuries — and includes an audio guide in English to help you understand the context.
It sounds interesting when you first arrive yet, in reality, you may find it feels a little staged and confined. The dioramas, while impressive in detail, present events like Viking conflicts and dramatic punishments in almost cinematic fashion, which can feel campy and over‑the‑top rather than evocative.
It was enjoyable enough, but not one I felt compelled to linger at. I’d suggest only doing this if you’ve already got it as part of a paired ticket with the boat tour from Vestmanna (the combined ticket does offer a small discount).
On it’s own entry costs 80 Danish Krone (around £9) , and while the gift shop and on‑site restaurant are handy if you’re already at the centre, I wouldn’t recommend making a special trip just to visit the museum. If you’re stopping for the boat tour – and have time to kill – then by all means pop in. Otherwise, there are far more memorable experiences awaiting you elsewhere on the islands.
A close up of one of the more graphic scenes on display in the museum
While the museum offers a glimpse of the Faroes history it’s little more than somewhere to kill time
Great places to eat
Tórshavn has a number of good places to eat covering most budgets. During my trip I ate in the city three times, once a quick burger, another time a mid-range café and finally a fine-dining establishment. Each was delightful in it’s own way and provides an enjoyable experience.
The first of these I’ll cover is the burger joint.
Tucked away above the harbour on Tinghúsvegur 8 in Tórshavn, Haps Burgarar & Steaks is a stylish yet cosy burger bar that’s become a local favourite. You’ll find it perched in the same building as the cinema — just head up to the top floor (no lift), and you’ll step into a warm, inviting space that feels more like a friendly neighbourhood hangout than a tourist spot.
To reach Haps, simply stroll from the centre of Tórshavn along the harbour front and head up a few flights of stairs — it’s part of the joy of discovering small-town gems like this.
On my visit, I treated myself to the Twin Burger, served with deliciously crisp sweet potato fries and a large beer. To cap it all off, I enjoyed a pistachio milkshake. My bill came to around 400 Danish Krone, which is about £45, a fair price for such a satisfying and hearty meal.
The burger was excellent — juicy patties with fresh buns and crisp salad. The fries weren’t just a side — they were a real highlight, perfectly golden and seasoned. The pistachio milkshake was smooth and nutty, a lovely twist to finish on. The staff were friendly and attentive, contributing to the relaxed, upbeat vibe of the place.
So, if you’re looking for a casual meal in Tórshavn, Haps is well worth seeking out.
The menu at Haps Burgarar & Steaks
Tucked away at Vaglið 4, just by the old parliament square in Tórshavn, Paname Café offers a wonderfully cosy, Paris‑inspired atmosphere nestled inside a historic turf‑roofed building.
To reach it, simply stroll through the charming pedestrian lanes of the old town—alongside quaint wooden houses and little shops — and you’ll find Paname in a lively spot that’s impossible to miss.
When I arrived, they were unfortunately already running a reduced menu, having sold most of their dishes earlier in the day. That didn’t matter too much, as I was still able to enjoy a large meat and cheese platter, beautifully curated with local and French-inspired flavours.
A local IPA accompanied the platter so well that I couldn’t resist ordering a second one — it was crisp, refreshing, and perfectly matched the creamy cheeses and cured meats.
Despite the limited menu, the meal was genuinely satisfying and very good value, though I can’t recall the exact cost. What I do remember is that the staff were friendly, helpful, and spoke great English, which made the experience all the more enjoyable.
To see me off, I ordered a small coffee to go, which was perfect for sipping on my walk back to the Airbnb.
Paname Café produced a lovely board of food to enjoy
And this local IPA is a must try
Tucked away in the old part of Tórshavn, within the charming little harbour enclave of Gongin, is the Barbara Fish House – a wonderfully atmospheric seafood restaurant that was one of the culinary highlights of my trip to the Faroe Islands.
Built into one of the traditional turf-roofed houses that give the capital so much of its character, Barbara offers a warm, cosy and intimate setting that feels a bit like stepping into a Faroese fisherman’s cottage – albeit one with exceptionally good food and wine.
The menu focuses heavily on the fresh catch from the surrounding North Atlantic waters, and there are plenty of options to choose from à la carte. But if you’re after a real treat, they offer a four- and seven-course tasting menu, both of which can be paired with wine.
I went all in with the seven-course option and wine pairing – and it was absolutely worth it. Each course was a beautifully presented snapshot of Faroese seafood, prepared with great care and flair.
From the delicate Spanish chili, toast dill pesto, garlic aioli starter to the rich and flavourful muscle and fish courses, everything tasted incredibly fresh and expertly seasoned. The wines, too, were paired with real thought – nothing too bold or overpowering, just excellent choices that brought out the best in each dish.
The staff were fantastic: friendly, professional and keen to explain each dish and wine as it arrived. Their English was flawless, and they struck that perfect balance between being attentive and giving you space to enjoy your meal. It’s a relaxed, unhurried experience – just the way a long dinner should be.
All in, the seven-course menu with wine pairing came to 1,500 Danish Krone (around £172), which I rounded up to 1,700 Krone with a tip (roughly £200). It’s certainly a splurge, but for a special evening of excellent food in a beautifully unique setting, Barbara Fish House absolutely delivers.
The entrance to Barbara Fish House in one of the traditional Faroese buildings in Tórshavn
The menu offers lots of lovely local options to try
The muscles were perhaps my favourite dish of the experience
The main dish was this perch which was paired beautifully with a lovely red wine
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Monaco, the glittering jewel of the French Riviera, is a place where history, luxury, and breath-taking coastal views collide. Despite being one of the smallest countries in the world – spanning just over two square kilometres – its reputation far outweighs its size.
This tiny principality has been ruled by the Grimaldi family for more than 700 years, with its legacy woven into the fabric of Monte Carlo’s iconic casinos, the world-famous Monaco Grand Prix, and the shimmering superyachts that line Port Hercules.
It’s a playground for the rich and famous, yet beyond the glamour, there’s a fascinating history and culture waiting to be explored.
For our latest adventure, my wife Holly and I, along with our two-year-old son Jacob, decided to experience Monaco firsthand discovering whether this high-rolling destination could cater to family travel as well as it does to billionaires.
The Principality of Monaco is the second-smallest country by area in the world; only Vatican City is smaller
However, before setting foot in this sun-soaked city-state, there are a few things every first-time visitor should know.
The first thing is the weather. May is an ideal time to visit – the month we arrived in – with warm but comfortable temperatures averaging around 20°C during the day and dipping to a pleasant 14°C at night.
While the Riviera is known for its endless sunshine, a light rain shower isn’t out of the question, so it’s always worth packing a compact umbrella – especially if you’re planning a scenic stroll around the old town or along the Formula 1 circuit.
When it comes to money, Monaco runs on the Euro, and at the time of writing, the exchange rate sits at approximately €1.20 to the British Pound.
Also, it’s worth noting that tipping in Monaco isn’t as rigidly expected as in some other countries, but it’s still appreciated for good service. Most restaurants automatically include a service charge in the bill, typically around 15%, so additional tipping isn’t necessary, though rounding up or leaving a few extra euros for excellent service is common.
In cafes and bars, locals often leave small change, while hotel staff, such as porters and housekeeping, generally receive a few euros for their efforts. Taxi drivers don’t expect a tip but rounding up to the nearest euro is a polite gesture. Overall, tipping is a matter of discretion rather than obligation.
Another small but notable adjustment for UK travellers is the one-hour time difference – meaning you’ll lose an hour on the journey over but gain it back when you return home.
Monaco on Google Maps
Packing for Monaco – or neighbouring France – also means considering electrical compatibility. The principality uses three plug types: C, E, and F. Type C features two round pins, type E has two round pins plus a hole for the socket’s male earthing pin, and type F has two round pins with two earth clips on the side.
It’s worth bringing a universal adapter to ensure your devices stay charged for all the inevitable photo opportunities.
Language-wise, French is the official tongue, while Monégasque – a unique Ligurian dialect – is recognised as the national language but spoken by very few. Italian and English are also widely understood, making it easy for visitors to navigate menus, attractions, and the occasional conversation with a friendly local.
One final to consider is how to keep remain in communication with the rest of the world during your stay. Staying connected can be tricky, as roaming charges can be expensive, and local SIM cards aren’t always convenient for short-term visitors. That’s why I highly recommend buying an eSIM before you go, ensuring seamless communication and internet access throughout your trip.
Services like Airalo make it incredibly easy – you just download their app, purchase a data plan for the Faroe Islands, and activate the eSIM on your phone before departure. Once you land, your phone will automatically connect to a local network, saving you the hassle of hunting for wi-fi or dealing with SIM swaps. This way, you can navigate remote roads, check the weather, and share your stunning photos without a hitch!
With these essentials covered, we were ready to dive into all that Monaco had to offer us as a family and to look what it has on offer beneath the glitz and glamour.
Getting there
Getting to Monaco is easier than many people realise—though one important thing to note is that Monaco doesn’t have its own airport. The closest international airport is Nice Côte d’Azur, located just across the French border in the south of France, and it’s the go-to arrival point for almost everyone heading to the principality.
Nice is very well connected to the UK, with direct flights available from a number of major airports including London Heathrow, Gatwick, Luton, Stansted, Bristol, Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds Bradford, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Belfast.
A variety of airlines operate these routes, so depending on your preferences or loyalty programmes, you can choose between British Airways, easyJet, Jet2, Ryanair and Wizz Air. Flight times are short and manageable – around two hours from London, and usually no more than two and a half hours from further afield.
When we visited in May, Holly, Jacob and I flew out from London Gatwick with British Airways. We managed to get an incredible deal: just £55 return per person.
It felt like an absolute steal, especially considering the destination. We’d been collecting Avios points as a family and had also earned two companion vouchers through our American Express Credit Cards. By combining our points and vouchers, we were able to significantly reduce the cost of our flights, which made the trip feel all the more rewarding.
Nice Côte d’Azur Airport itself is France’s third busiest, after Charles de Gaulle and Orly in Paris. It handles more than 14 million passengers a year and offers a smooth and modern experience for travellers. The airport has two terminals: Terminal 1 (the terminal we used for our British Airways flights) and Terminal 2, which is a larger and newer terminal and serves most major airlines.
On arrival, we found everything well signposted and efficient – passport control was straightforward, and we were through to baggage claim in no time.
From Nice Airport, Monaco is about 30km away, roughly an hour’s journey depending on how you choose to travel. There are several easy options for getting there. You can take a taxi or private transfer directly from the airport, which offers the simplest and most comfortable route. If you’re happy to go by public transport, you can walk to Nice Saint-Augustin station (about 15 minutes from the airport) and take a regional train along the stunning coastal route straight to Monaco. Alternatively, there are buses that serve the route, with connections into Nice city where you can pick up a local service to the principality.
On arrival we opted for using public transport to get to our hotel which was more cost effective while we chose to use a taxi on our return (mainly due to our early start in the morning). This was fairly costly at €100 (about £83) and would be even more costly if you were travelling from Monaco itself.
No matter which route you choose, the journey from Nice to Monaco is incredibly scenic. The coastline curves dramatically between rocky cliffs and sparkling sea, with picturesque villages and elegant villas perched above the turquoise water.
Flying into Nice Côte d’Azur International Airport
You get a nice warm welcome upon leaving the airport
Train stations are fairly basic but the trains into Nice and Monaco are frequent
Where to stay
While Monaco boasts a variety of glamorous hotels—a lot of which are expensive—we decided to base ourselves just outside the principality, at Hôtel Vacances Bleues Delcloy in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, France.
We booked our four-night stay via Expedia for £651.15, which included breakfast, and strategically chose the location for its convenience to both Nice and Monaco, offering us the best of both worlds without the price tag.
The hotel itself is set in sprawling grounds and offers a decent range of facilities, including a good-sized – and very deep – outdoor pool, mini golf course, fitness area, and sweeping terraces that take full advantage of the stunning sea views. It also has a buffet restaurant, a few bar areas, and access to coastal walking paths that make exploring the peninsula a breeze.
That said, the accommodation is undeniably dated and living in the 1960s. While the location is prime, the rooms are in need of some serious love and attention. Our bathroom was poorly maintained, with tired fittings and door handles literally falling off, while our balcony felt unloved, with peeling paint and an area for plants that was left for the weeds long ago. The mini golf course, though hilariously wonky, offered more laughs than actual playability— its broken obstacles and crumbling concreate made for a very DIY-style round of golf.
Dinner was a particular oddity. Rather than being able to simply walk in and sit down, you have to collect a paper card from reception to be allowed entry to the buffet. And once you’re in, ordering drinks becomes a scavenger hunt— you’re unable to get certain beverages at your table and instead have to venture to different bars across the hotel to retrieve them. It’s a strange and slightly frustrating system, especially after a long day out.
Despite its quirks, the hotel does have some redeeming features. The staff were generally helpful, with receptionists happy to help and order us an early morning taxi.
Breakfast was both plentiful and appitsing with hot and cold options on offer each morning while the pool area was a major hit, especially with Jacob, who loved every second in the water.
Perhaps most importantly, the views over the Mediterranean are genuinely spectacular. Watching the sun glint off the sea each morning added a certain charm and made up for many of the hotel’s shortcomings.
In short, Hôtel Vacances Bleues Delcloy is not the height of Riviera luxury – but if you’re after a budget-friendly base with unbeatable views and access to the French Riviera’s hotspots, it just about does the job.
The hotel’s swimming pool is probably its best feature
Jacob settling into our room which was basic but functional
The hotel’s crazy golf course needs a lot of love and care
The views around the hotel are well worth seeing
Getting around
During our trip to the French Riviera, we stayed just outside of Nice in an area called Beaulieu-sur-Mer. So, while Monaco was one of the main focuses on our itinerary, we didn’t actually stay there overnight – instead, we opted for a day trip into the principality. And having now done it ourselves, I can safely say that the best way to travel to Monaco from the surrounding area is by train.
You can drive, of course, but we found that the hassle of parking and the often heavy traffic around Monaco just wasn’t worth it. Like many small, popular destinations, space is at a premium in Monaco, and that applies to the roads and car parks too.
Between the winding cliffside drive and the pricey parking fees, driving felt like an unnecessary complication. The train, on the other hand, was not only cheaper (around €26 – about £22 – for two adult return tickets with an infant travelling for free) but also far more relaxing – and it gave us some stunning views along the way.
We picked up the train early in the morning from Beaulieu-sur-Mer towards Monaco Monte Carlo station; a journey that takes around 15 minutes. It’s a short, scenic journey that hugs the coastline, offering glimpses of the Mediterranean at almost every turn.
Trains run regularly throughout the day, so there was no need to rush or plan too far in advance as even if you miss one, another will be along fairly quickly.
When we arrived at Monaco Monte Carlo station, we found ourselves right in the heart of the principality – albeit at the very top of it.
The station itself is built into the rock, a modern underground complex that’s surprisingly spacious and very clean. As you emerge, you’re already close to many of Monaco’s top attractions. It’s a short walk to the the yacht-filled Port Hercules or the historic old town perched on the hill.
One thing to note is that if you do leave the station at the top then look for the numerous lifts and elevators that are on the street to take up up and down the many levels of Monaco with ease. If, like us, you’re visiting with a small child, this is a godsend and makes walking around a lot easier.
Once you’re in Monaco, the best way to get around is definitely on foot. Despite its glamorous reputation, Monaco is actually very compact – just a couple of square kilometres in size – which means you can easily explore it without needing taxis or buses.
While it is small, some of it’s streets are a bit of a maze, so keep your phone handy and your map open as this is the easiest way to work out where you need to go.
There are a few steep hills, but – as mentioned earlier – the principality is well equipped with public elevators and escalators that help you move between different levels of the city without breaking a sweat. It’s surprisingly pedestrian-friendly, and walking lets you stumble upon breath-taking viewpoints that you’d likely miss in a car.
The main entrance to Monaco-Monte-Carlo train station
Monaco is built up the side of the cliffs and can be very steep to walk. However, there are a number of lifts in the city to get you between levels. You just need to find them
Top sites
So where should you visit during a trip to Monaco?
Perched dramatically on the edge of a cliff overlooking the sparkling Mediterranean, the museum is as impressive on the outside as it is fascinating on the inside. It almost looks like it’s been carved out of the rock itself, standing tall above the sea.
We booked our tickets online in advance, which cost €22.50 each for two adults (around £20.07), and the best bit was that children under four go free – so Jacob could enjoy the whole experience without us needing to buy him a ticket.
From the moment we stepped inside, we could tell this was going to be more than just a typical museum visit. The aquariums are the real showstoppers – vast tanks teeming with colourful fish, curious sea creatures and a few sharks. Jacob was completely mesmerised by the jellyfish and couldn’t get enough of each tank he walked to.
But there’s much more to the Oceanographic Museum than the aquariums. The building itself is steeped in history – it was founded by Prince Albert I in 1910, and you really feel the grandeur as you explore its marble halls and sweeping staircases.
One of the most memorable parts of our visit was walking beneath the enormous whale skeleton suspended above the grand exhibition space. There’s also a fascinating cabinet of curiosities filled with ocean-themed artefacts, from vintage diving suits to preserved sea creatures and centuries-old marine maps – it’s quirky yet beautifully presented.
We were really impressed by how family-friendly everything was. For older kids and grown-ups, there is an escape room and even a virtual reality diving experience. Jacob was a bit too young for those, but he absolutely loved the rooftop terrace where we also stopped for a bite to eat. It’s not just a spot for a breather and some food though as there are also stunning views of Monaco to enjoy and a small play area and a tortoise enclosure to visit.
One of the things that really stood out to us was how well the museum balances fun with a strong environmental message. There are lots of exhibits that talk about the importance of ocean conservation and protecting marine biodiversity, but it never feels heavy or preachy – just thought-provoking in the best way. You come away feeling like you’ve not only had a great day out, but learned something too.
The building hosting the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco is very impressive
There are a number of sharks within the aquarium
And some sea turtles as well
From the roof of the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco you can get good views across the whole city
The next place to visit in Monaco is the Palais Princier de Monaco – the Prince’s Palace – which sits right at the top of the old town, Monaco-Ville, on what’s known as “the Rock” or Le Rocher.
It’s hard to miss, with its elegant façade and commanding position overlooking the harbour and the glittering Mediterranean beyond. We didn’t go inside on this occasion, but it’s good to know that the palace is open to the public from April to mid-October, every day between 10AM and 5:30PM, and if you’re visiting in July or August, you get a bit more time as it stays open until 6:30PM.
Even just seeing it from the outside is worth the walk up. The setting is beautiful, with wide open squares, elegant lampposts, and sweeping views in every direction. The palace itself has a real sense of history about it – it’s been the official residence of the Grimaldi family for centuries, and you can just imagine the grandeur that lies behind those big wooden doors.
It’s still a working royal home too, which adds to the atmosphere. We arrived just after the Changing of the Guard, which takes place every day at 11:55AM, but it’s definitely something worth catching if you time it right.
The area around the palace is lovely to wander through, with narrow old streets, souvenir shops, cafés and a peaceful, relaxed vibe that feels quite different from the buzz of Monte Carlo below.
Even without going inside, it was a really enjoyable stop and made us feel like we were seeing a different side of Monaco – more traditional, more historic, and with some of the best views of the whole trip.
The impressive Palais Princier de Monaco
Nearby the Palais Princier de Monaco you can get good views across the harbour
If you’re exploring Monaco, one place you really shouldn’t miss is the Cathédrale de Monaco, also known as Saint Nicholas Cathedral. It’s tucked away in the heart of Monaco-Ville, just a few minutes’ walk from the Prince’s Palace, and makes for a peaceful and moving visit.
The cathedral is open to the public and completely free to enter, which makes it an easy addition to your itinerary, whether you’re sightseeing with kids or enjoying a quieter moment in the old town.
The cathedral is perhaps most famous as the final resting place of Princess Grace of Monaco – the Hollywood star Grace Kelly – and her husband, Prince Rainier III.
Their tombstones lie side-by-side inside the cathedral, simply marked and always surrounded by fresh flowers. It’s a beautifully kept space and very respectful, but there’s something incredibly touching about standing there and reflecting on their story.
Architecturally, the cathedral is striking, built from white stone from nearby La Turbie, with a mix of Romanesque and Byzantine styles that give it a distinctive, elegant feel.
Inside, it’s calm and cool, with high vaulted ceilings, lovely stained glass windows, and an impressive altar.
Even if you only stop by for a short while, the cathedral offers a different side to Monaco – one that’s steeped in history, full of quiet beauty, and free from the glitz of the casinos and yachts.
The entrance to the Cathédrale de Monaco
Inside, the Cathédrale de Monaco is beautifully presented
The final resting place of Grace Kelly within the Cathédrale de Monaco
A fun and slightly unexpected place to pop into while exploring Monaco is the Monaco Town Hall, or Mairie de Monaco, especially if you’re after a quirky little souvenir from your trip.
Tucked away just off the main square in Monaco-Ville, the building itself is elegant but understated – and you might easily walk past it without realising there’s something special inside for visitors.
If you head inside during opening hours and ask at the front desk, you can get a special passport stamp featuring the official coat of arms of Monaco. It’s completely free, and such a unique memento to take home – especially if you’re someone – like me – who enjoys collecting travel stamps or is travelling with children who’ll find it exciting to have a “Monaco stamp” in their passport.
Sadly for us, our visit coincided with a public holiday and the town hall was closed, which was a real shame as we’d been looking forward to picking up our stamp! But under normal circumstances, it’s open from Monday to Friday between 8:30am and 4pm, so it’s worth planning your visit around that if you’re keen to add something a little different to your Monaco experience.
It’s a small and simple thing to do, but getting your passport stamped at the town hall adds a lovely personal touch to your time in the principality.
The entrance to Monaco Town Hall which was sadly shut during our visit but, when open, you can get your passport stamped here
A walk around Port Hercules is a must when visiting Monaco. This is the city-state’s main harbour – the one you always see in postcards and Grand Prix footage – and it’s every bit as glamorous as you’d imagine.
Framed by the steep cliffs of Monaco on one side and the open sea on the other, the port is a hive of activity and a great place to soak up the atmosphere, whether you’re stopping for a drink, spotting superyachts, or simply taking in the views.
It’s a working harbour, but also a showpiece – the kind of place where multi-million-pound yachts are lined up like parked cars and the reflections of luxury boats shimmer on the water. Even if you’re not usually into boats, there’s something captivating about the scale and style of it all. We spent a good while strolling along the promenade, pointing out the names and flags of different vessels and wondering who might be on board.
There are cafés, restaurants, and plenty of benches along the waterfront, so it’s also a perfect spot to pause for an ice cream or a coffee and watch the world go by. Jacob loved seeing the big boats up close and waving at the smaller ones coming and going.
Port Hercules is particularly lively in the lead-up to the Monaco Grand Prix in May (which took place a week before we visited), when parts of it are transformed into sections of the racetrack – you can still see the markings and barriers even when the race isn’t on, which adds a fun twist to your walk. And if you visit in the evening, the whole place takes on a golden glow as the sun sets behind the hills and the lights of the city start to sparkle.
It’s free to wander around, and because it sits right between Monte Carlo and Monaco-Ville, it’s easy to work into your day without going out of your way.
You can get up close to some of the super yachts docked in Port Hercules
The size of the yachts in Port Hercules is impressive
For fans of F1, one place you absolutely shouldn’t miss in Monaco is the Fairmont Hairpin.
It’s the most iconic corner on the entire Formula 1 calendar – the famous near-180-degree bend that’s instantly recognisable to motorsport lovers around the world. Located right outside the Fairmont Monte Carlo hotel in the heart of Monte Carlo, this tight, winding corner is the slowest on the circuit, and seeing it in person really makes you appreciate just how narrow and technical the Monaco Grand Prix truly is.
Even when it’s not race weekend, the hairpin is still in use as a public road, so you can stand just steps away from where the F1 cars twist and turn during the race, and watch everyday traffic navigate the same line – albeit much, much slower. There’s something thrilling about being able to walk right up to a piece of sporting history like that, especially if you’ve grown up watching Monaco on TV.
If you’re visiting during the Grand Prix in May, this spot becomes one of the hottest places to watch the action, with the hotel’s balconies offering a prime view of the drivers battling through the bend. But even at quieter times, the Fairmont Hairpin has a buzz to it – it’s a photo stop, a conversation starter, and a bucket-list tick for any Formula 1 fan visiting the principality.
Looking down at the Fairmont Hairpin
F1 fans won’t want to miss seeing this iconic Monaco GP corner up close and personal
Where to avoid
Given Monaco’s tiny size and polished reputation, you might assume there’s nothing to be wary of. And to be fair, we didn’t encounter any issues while actually in Monaco — it felt clean, orderly, and very safe. However, if you’re travelling into the principality by train (as most visitors do), it’s worth staying on your guard, especially around Gare de Nice-Ville, which is the main station people pass through en-route to Monaco.
On our very first train journey, as we made our way from the airport to our hotel ust we witnessed a woman loitering on the platform and tailing passengers as they stepped onto the train. She moved quickly and quietly, slipping her hands into jacket pockets and open bags with worrying ease.
Fortunately, we clocked what she was doing — and after I shouted to alert those around us, she immediately leapt off the train and sprinted away like a coward. It was shocking to see such blatant theft in action, and a stark reminder that crowded train stations can be hotspots for opportunistic crime.
So while Monaco itself felt very safe, we’d strongly recommend keeping your belongings close when using public transport in the area — especially in and around Nice. Zip up your bags, avoid keeping valuables in outer pockets, and stay aware of your surroundings. A few small precautions can go a long way.
Be extra careful when in and around the stations in Nice and Monaco as pickpockets do tail people boarding trains
As for places within Monaco to avoid, the truth is there aren’t really any – it’s a small, walkable place where you can see most of the sights in a day. That said, if time is tight and you’re deciding what to prioritise, the Casino de Monte-Carlo may not be worth going out of your way for.
Despite the glamour attached to its name, the building itself isn’t particularly striking from the outside. Aside from a few luxury cars parked out front (which you’ll see all over Monaco anyway), there’s not much to take in.
While you can pay to go inside and explore, we opted not to, and didn’t feel like we missed out. Unless you’re planning to gamble or are especially keen to see the interior, the experience doesn’t quite justify the cost or the hype. There are plenty of other spots in Monaco where you can enjoy the same elegance – for free.
The outside of the Casino de Monte-Carlo is not that impressive
A few of the cars parked outside the Casino de Monte-Carlo
Great places to eat
The tiny principality is packed with a fair few nice looking restaurants. But during our visit, we made the decision not to eat in Monaco itself (aside from a quick sandwich and drink on the rooftop café of the Oceanographic Museum – perfect for the view, if not the budget!).
From what we saw, most of Monaco’s dining options tend to lean towards the pricey end of the spectrum. So unless you’re keen to splash out, our advice is to enjoy the sights by day, then head out of the city for dinner. That’s exactly what we did – and it turned out to be one of the culinary highlights of our trip.
Just a short drive away, tucked in the hills above Nice, we booked a table at the fabulous La Maison De La Sauce – a hidden gem in Beaulieu-sur-Mer.
We reserved in advance and were seated in their lovely outdoor terrace, basking in the evening sun.
We opted for the three-course tasting menu, priced at a very reasonable €49 per person (around £41). Starters included deliciously rich foie gras and traditional escargots. For mains, we tried both the melt-in-the-mouth beef and the beautifully prepared fish ceviche dish. Dessert was a perfectly crisp and subtly tangy apple tart that rounded off the meal beautifully.
The whole experience, including drinks, came to just €133 (around £112) – incredible value given the quality of the food and the setting.
What really stood out, though, was the service. The owners, who also run the restaurant day-to-day, were clearly passionate about their craft. Their warm welcome, thoughtful recommendations, and attention to detail made the evening feel truly special.
La Maison de la Sauce offers charm, flavour, and genuine hospitality – proof that sometimes the best meals are found just a little off the beaten track.
One of the starters we enjoyed were the snails
The fish dish for the main was delicious
The apple tart dessert finished the meal of superbly
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