Bucharest and surrounding Transylvania
Romania had been sitting high on my travel list for years – a country that seems to straddle multiple worlds at once.
Part Eastern Europe, part Central Europe, and shaped by influences ranging from the Romans and Ottomans to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Communist era, it is a destination rich in history, culture, and folklore.
Despite growing in popularity in recent years, Romania still feels surprisingly underappreciated compared to many of its European neighbours.
Visitors often arrive expecting little more than tales of Dracula and gloomy castles, only to discover vibrant cities, spectacular mountain scenery, medieval towns, and some of the friendliest people on the continent.
Its capital, Bucharest, is perhaps the greatest surprise of all. Nicknamed “Little Paris” during its golden age, the city blends elegant Belle Époque architecture with imposing Communist-era landmarks, trendy cafés, bustling nightlife, and leafy parks. It is a city that refuses to fit neatly into any stereotype, revealing a different side of itself with every street explored.
Beyond Bucharest lies Transylvania, a region that has captivated imaginations for centuries. While the legend of Dracula continues to draw visitors from around the world, the reality is every bit as fascinating.
Fairy-tale castles, fortified churches, colourful Saxon towns, and the dramatic peaks of the Carpathian Mountains combine to create one of Europe’s most rewarding travel experiences.
This trip represented another opportunity to venture beyond the destinations that dominate most European travel itineraries. While Romania is by no means undiscovered, it still offers a sense of authenticity that can sometimes feel difficult to find elsewhere.
From wandering through the grand boulevards of Bucharest to exploring medieval streets in Brașov and Sibiu, this journey promised a fascinating blend of history, culture, and adventure.
So what should first-time visitors to Bucharest and Transylvania consider before setting off to one of Europe’s most intriguing and misunderstood destinations?
The first thing to understand about Romania is its remarkable diversity. In the space of a single trip, you can experience the energy of a thriving capital city, explore centuries-old medieval towns, hike through mountain landscapes, and visit castles that seem lifted straight from the pages of a storybook. Every region possesses its own character, making Romania feel much larger and more varied than many visitors expect.
The next thing to prepare for is the weather. Conditions can vary significantly depending on both the season and where you are travelling. Bucharest generally experiences hotter summers and milder winters than the mountain regions, while Transylvania can often feel noticeably cooler, particularly in the evenings.
During summer, temperatures regularly exceed 30°C (86°F), particularly in Bucharest, while spring and autumn offer pleasant conditions ideal for sightseeing. Winter can be much colder, especially in Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains, where snowfall is common and temperatures can fall below freezing.
However, if you travel in December – as I did – then know that Bucharest is cold, featuring an average daytime high of 5°C (41°F) and an overnight low of -2°C (28°F).
As always, it’s worth checking the forecast before departure, but comfortable walking shoes and layers are highly recommended regardless of the season, particularly if your itinerary includes both city breaks and mountain excursions.
The next thing to consider is the currency. Romania’s currency is the Romanian Leu (RON), and while card payments are widely accepted throughout the country, carrying some cash remains useful for smaller purchases, markets, and rural areas. At the time of writing, £1 is worth approximately 6 Romanian Lei (RON).
Unlike some lesser-traded European currencies, Romanian Lei are generally easier to obtain in the UK, although exchange rates are often better when ordered online in advance. As always, it pays to compare rates before travelling.
ATMs are readily available throughout Bucharest and the larger towns of Transylvania, while contactless payments are commonplace in hotels, restaurants, shops, and tourist attractions.
Tipping in Romania is appreciated but not compulsory. In restaurants, leaving around 10% for good service is considered standard practice, while rounding up taxi fares is also common.
For UK travellers, adjusting to life in Romania is straightforward. The country is two hours ahead of the UK, meaning there’s little disruption to your body clock. Direct flights from London to Bucharest typically take around three hours and twenty minutes, making Romania one of the more accessible destinations in Eastern Europe.
However, if you’re bringing electronic devices, you’ll need to pack a power plug adapter.
Romania uses Type C and Type F plug sockets, which operate on a standard voltage of 230 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. If you are traveling from the UK, you will need a physical plug adapter to fit your Type G devices into their local outlets.
While Romania has become increasingly international in recent years, learning a few local phrases can still go a long way.
The official language is Romanian, a Romance language with strong similarities to Italian, Spanish, French, and Portuguese. As a result, visitors familiar with any of these languages may recognise certain words and phrases.
English is widely spoken among younger generations, particularly in Bucharest and major tourist destinations such as Brașov, Sibiu, and Bran. Communication is rarely a problem in hotels, restaurants, and attractions, although a translation app can prove useful when venturing into more rural areas.
Locals always appreciate visitors making an effort with the language. “Hello” is Bună ziua, while “goodbye” is La revedere. “Please” is Vă rog, and “thank you” is Mulțumesc. If you’re raising a glass of Romania’s excellent wine or local beer, you’ll likely hear Noroc — the Romanian equivalent of “cheers”.
One final thing to consider is how you’ll stay connected during your trip. Romania boasts some of the fastest internet speeds in Europe, and free Wi-Fi is widely available in hotels, cafés, restaurants, and public spaces.
However, relying solely on Wi-Fi can be inconvenient when navigating unfamiliar cities, booking transport, or exploring remote areas of Transylvania.
That’s why I recommend purchasing an eSIM before travelling.
Providers such as Airalo make the process quick and straightforward. Simply purchase a Romanian data package through the app, activate it before departure, and your phone will connect automatically upon arrival.
It removes the need to search for local SIM cards and ensures you’ll have reliable access to maps, bookings, and travel information throughout your stay.
With these essentials taken care of, I was ready to begin my Romanian adventure – a journey that would take me from the grand boulevards and fascinating contrasts of Bucharest to the castles, mountains, and medieval towns that have made Transylvania one of Europe’s most enduringly captivating regions.
Getting there
Getting to Bucharest from the UK is refreshingly straightforward. Romania’s capital is well connected to Britain, with numerous airlines operating direct services throughout the year and flight times short enough to make it an ideal destination for either a long weekend or a longer exploration of the country.
For travellers flying from the UK, there are several options available. Ryanair operates flights from London Stansted, while Wizz Air serves Bucharest from both London Luton and London Gatwick. British Airways also offers services from London Heathrow, providing a more traditional full-service option for those who prefer it.
Depending on where you are based in the UK, there are often seasonal and regional departures available from airports such as Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Bristol.
For this trip, we chose to fly direct from London Stansted with Ryanair. The total return fare for two people came to just £133.92, which represented excellent value for a European city break.
Of course, fares can fluctuate significantly depending on the season, how far in advance you book, and the time of day you choose to travel, but Romania generally remains one of the more affordable destinations to reach from the UK.
Flight times from London to Bucharest are typically around three hours and twenty minutes, making the journey surprisingly quick considering the distance travelled. Before long, the familiar patchwork fields of southern England give way to the landscapes of continental Europe, before eventually descending towards Romania’s sprawling capital.
As with most Ryanair flights, the experience was simple, efficient and exactly what you would expect from one of Europe’s leading low-cost carriers. Boarding was well organised, the aircraft departed on time, and before we knew it we were beginning our descent into Bucharest.
Our arrival point was Bucharest Henri Coandă International Airport, often still referred to simply as Otopeni Airport. Located approximately 16.5km north of Bucharest’s city centre, it serves as Romania’s busiest airport and the country’s principal international gateway.
In 2025, the airport welcomed more than 17 million passengers, underlining its importance as one of Eastern Europe’s major aviation hubs. The airport operates one main single terminal divided into three interconnected areas: the Departures Hall, the Arrivals Hall, and the Finger Terminal (airside concourse) and two parallel runways, each measuring 3,500 metres in length, allowing it to handle a significant volume of both domestic and international traffic.
Despite its size, the airport is relatively easy to navigate. Facilities include currency exchange counters, cafés, restaurants, car hire desks, duty-free shopping and a rail connection into the city. Immigration and baggage collection were both straightforward during our visit, allowing us to begin our Romanian adventure without any unnecessary delays.
Travellers arriving at Bucharest Airport have several options for reaching the city centre. Taxis are readily available outside the terminal, while rideshare services such as Uber and Bolt are widely used and often provide a convenient alternative. There is also a direct rail service connecting the airport to Gara de Nord, Bucharest’s main railway station, with journey times of around 20 to 25 minutes. Public buses operate throughout the day and offer the cheapest option for those travelling on a budget.
For our trip, however, we decided to remove any uncertainty by booking a private return transfer through Hoppa before departure. The total cost came to just £25.61 for the return journey, which we felt represented excellent value for the convenience offered. As always, prices will vary depending on the season, vehicle type and demand at the time of booking.
After collecting our luggage, our driver was waiting exactly where promised and within a very short space of time we were leaving the airport behind and heading towards the city. It was a simple, stress-free start to the trip, avoiding the need to compare taxi prices or navigate public transport immediately after landing.
There is always something exciting about those first moments in a new destination. As the suburbs of Bucharest rolled past the window and the lights of the city began to appear in the distance, it felt like the real adventure was finally beginning.
Where to stay
When choosing where to stay in Bucharest, we were looking for somewhere that offered a little luxury without sacrificing convenience.
After plenty of research, we settled on the Epoque Hotel, an elegant five-star boutique property tucked away on a quiet street beside the beautiful Cișmigiu Gardens, one of the city’s most famous green spaces.
Its location proved to be one of its greatest strengths. While Bucharest’s bustling Old Town and many of the capital’s major attractions were within easy walking distance, the hotel itself felt removed from the noise and energy of the city centre. After a long day of exploring, returning to such a peaceful setting was a welcome contrast.
For our trip, we booked a two-night stay in a Junior Suite at a total cost of £173.50, including daily breakfast for two people. Our visit took place in December, and it’s worth noting that accommodation prices in Bucharest can vary considerably depending on the season, local events and availability, so rates may have changed since our stay.
The experience began the moment we stepped through the hotel’s doors. Check-in was warm, efficient and refreshingly personal, and we were welcomed with a glass of champagne while the formalities were completed. It was a small gesture, but one that immediately made the hotel feel special and set the tone for the stay ahead.
Shortly afterwards, we were escorted to our Junior Suite, and the first impression was simply one of space. Unlike many city hotels where every square metre feels carefully maximised, this suite felt wonderfully generous. Rather than being a single room, it offered several distinct living spaces, including a large bedroom area, a separate lounge, an impressive bathroom and a private balcony.
The living area quickly became a favourite spot to relax after a day spent wandering Bucharest’s streets. Large windows allowed plenty of natural light to flood the suite during the day, while the tasteful décor created an atmosphere that felt both luxurious and comfortable. The bedroom was equally inviting, with a large bed that provided an excellent night’s sleep, while the spacious bathroom added another touch of indulgence to the overall experience.
One feature that particularly appealed to us was the hotel’s indoor swimming pool. Visiting Romania in December means spending plenty of time wrapped up against the winter chill, so having the opportunity to enjoy a swim at the end of a day sightseeing was a real treat. The pool area was calm, beautifully maintained and offered the perfect place to unwind before heading out for the evening or settling in for the night.
Another standout feature was the hotel’s restaurant. Breakfast was included with our stay and quickly became one of the highlights of each morning. Served in elegant surroundings, it offered a high-quality selection of hot and cold options that provided the perfect start to a busy day of exploration.
We enjoyed the restaurant so much that we returned one evening for dinner, and it did not disappoint. The food was superb, the service attentive without being intrusive, and the atmosphere struck exactly the right balance between refined dining and relaxed comfort.
What impressed me most about Epoque was how effortlessly it combined boutique luxury with a welcoming, unpretentious feel. Some high-end hotels can feel formal or intimidating, but Epoque managed to provide all the comforts of a luxury property while remaining warm and approachable throughout our stay.
Overall, it proved to be an excellent base for exploring Bucharest. Its peaceful location beside Cișmigiu Gardens, spacious accommodation, excellent facilities and high standard of service all helped make our time in Romania’s capital even more memorable.
While there are certainly cheaper places to stay in Bucharest, travellers looking to add a little comfort and indulgence to their visit will find plenty to like here. For us, it struck exactly the right balance between city break convenience and boutique luxury.
Getting around
Bucharest is a city that rewards those willing to explore it on foot. While Romania’s capital is significantly larger than many European city-break destinations, many of its most interesting attractions are concentrated within a relatively manageable area, making walking one of the best ways to experience the city’s unique character.
Strolling through Bucharest allows you to appreciate the fascinating contrasts that have earned it a reputation as one of Europe’s most intriguing capitals. Grand Belle Époque buildings stand alongside imposing Communist-era landmarks, while elegant boulevards give way to hidden churches, quiet courtyards and vibrant café-lined streets. One moment you can be admiring the grandeur of the Romanian Athenaeum, and the next you can find yourself wandering through the atmospheric lanes of the Old Town.
Perhaps more than anything, walking allows you to discover the side of Bucharest that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks. Some of my favourite moments came not from ticking off major landmarks, but from stumbling across impressive architecture, tucked-away restaurants and neighbourhoods that revealed a different side of the city. Bucharest is a place that often rewards curiosity more than careful planning.
That is not to say there aren’t plenty of other transport options available. Bucharest has an extensive public transport network consisting of buses, trams, trolleybuses and a modern metro system, all of which provide affordable ways to travel across the city. Taxis are widely available, while ride-hailing services are popular and generally inexpensive compared to many Western European cities.
For those wishing to explore beyond the capital independently, car hire is readily available both at Bucharest Henri Coandă International Airport and from numerous locations throughout the city. Romania’s road network has improved considerably in recent years, and having your own vehicle offers the flexibility to explore some of the country’s smaller towns and more rural areas at your own pace.
However, if your plans include visiting Transylvania’s most famous attractions – particularly destinations such as Brașov and Bran Castle – I would personally recommend joining an organised day tour rather than driving yourself.
A wide range of escorted tours operate from Bucharest, many of which include hotel pick-up and drop-off as part of the package. Not only does this remove the stress of navigating unfamiliar roads and parking in busy tourist areas, but it also allows you to sit back and enjoy the spectacular scenery as you travel through the Carpathian Mountains and into the heart of Transylvania.
For our visit, this proved to be by far the most convenient option. Everything was organised for us, transportation was comfortable, and we were able to focus entirely on enjoying the experience rather than worrying about directions, traffic or timetables.
Ultimately, while there are plenty of ways to travel around Bucharest and beyond, I found that the simplest approach was often the best. Explore the capital on foot wherever possible, and when it comes to discovering the castles, mountains and medieval towns of Transylvania, let somebody else do the legwork.
Top sites
Bucharest is a city that wears its history openly. Around almost every corner, you can see the contrast between the elegance of its pre-war architecture and the imposing reminders of its Communist past.
Nowhere is that contrast more dramatic than at the Palace of the Parliament – a building so enormous that it feels almost impossible to get a view of the whole thing!
Standing proudly on Bulevardul Libertății, in central Bucharest, the Palace of the Parliament dominates the skyline from the western edge of the city centre. Located at the end of Bulevardul Unirii, just a short distance from the Old Town, it is one of the first places many visitors head to when trying to understand the scale and ambition of Romania’s capital.
And when I say scale, I really mean it.
The Palace of the Parliament is the heaviest building in the world and the second-largest administrative building on the planet, behind only the Pentagon.
Construction began in 1984 under Romania’s former Communist leader Nicolae Ceaușescu, who wanted to create a monumental symbol of power and national pride. The result is a building that is almost impossible to comprehend until you are standing directly in front of it.
The figures alone are staggering. The Palace covers more than 365,000 square metres, contains over 1,000 rooms, and was built using enormous quantities of Romanian materials, including marble, crystal, wood and textiles. The craftsmanship is undeniably impressive, but the story behind its creation is far more complicated.
To make way for the building, large parts of Bucharest were demolished, including historic homes, churches and neighbourhoods. Thousands of workers contributed to its construction during a period when many ordinary Romanians were experiencing severe economic hardship and shortages. Because of this, the Palace remains a deeply complex symbol – admired for its architectural achievement, but also remembered as a reminder of one of the country’s most difficult periods.
When I visited Bucharest, we only saw the Palace of the Parliament from the outside. Even without stepping inside, it was still one of the most impressive sights of the entire trip. Standing at the base of the building and looking up at the endless rows of windows and vast stone façade really is a sight to behold.
My photographs simply do not capture the scale. The building stretches so far across the landscape that it almost feels more like a city within a city than a traditional government building. It is the kind of landmark that makes you stop for a moment and appreciate the sheer ambition – and controversy – behind its creation.
For those wanting to explore inside, it is possible to visit the Palace through the official Palatul Parlamentului Visitor Centre, where guided tours take visitors through some of the building’s most impressive rooms and halls.
I understand that the interior is every bit as extravagant as the exterior suggests and visitors can see enormous marble staircases, grand meeting rooms, beautifully decorated halls and intricate details that showcase the incredible level of craftsmanship involved in its construction.
Standard entry tickets (at the time of writing) cost 85 lei (around £13.90) for adults, 55 lei (around £8.99) for students aged 19–26 with a valid ID, and 40 lei (around £6.54) for children aged 7–18. Children under seven can enter for free.
If you do decide to visit inside, you should bring a valid form of identification, as security checks can be carried out before entering the building.
Some places in a city are memorable because of their beauty, while others stay with you because of the moments that unfolded there.
The balcony of the party headquarters where Nicolae Ceaușescu gave his final speech before the Romanian revolution belongs firmly in the second category.
Located on Revolution Square (Piața Revoluției), in the heart of central Bucharest, this otherwise unassuming part of the city became the stage for one of the most dramatic moments in Romania’s modern history. It was here, on 21 December 1989, that Nicolae Ceaușescu delivered his final public speech before the Romanian Revolution brought an end to his 24-year rule.
Today, Revolution Square is one of the most historically significant places in Bucharest. Surrounded by some of the city’s most important buildings and it is a place where Romania’s past and present sit side-by-side.
Standing in the square, it is easy to overlook the balcony itself. There is no grand monument marking the exact spot, no dramatic entrance or overwhelming display. Instead, it blends into the surrounding architecture – which almost makes the story behind it even more powerful.
Before December 1989, the balcony belonged to the Central Committee building of the Romanian Communist Party, the centre of political power during Ceaușescu’s dictatorship. It was from here that the leader addressed the crowds gathered below, attempting to condemn the unrest that had begun in the city of Timișoara and reassure the Romanian people that his government remained in control.
However, the speech did not go according to plan.
As Ceaușescu began speaking, the crowd below unexpectedly turned against him. What followed was an extraordinary moment broadcast across the world – a leader who had built a reputation around absolute control suddenly losing command of the very people he was addressing.
The stunned expression on Ceaușescu’s face, as the crowd began to boo and chant against him, became one of the defining images of the Romanian Revolution. The following day, protesters entered the building, Ceaușescu and his wife Elena fled by helicopter, and after a brief trial they were executed on 25 December 1989.
When I visited Revolution Square, seeing the balcony in person was a surprisingly powerful experience. It is not the kind of attraction where you spend hours exploring or taking countless photographs. Instead, it is a place where you pause, look up, and reflect on the significance of what happened there.
The contrast is striking. Today, the square is peaceful, surrounded by traffic, cafés and everyday city life. Yet standing there, it is difficult not to imagine the atmosphere of that December morning – the uncertainty, the fear, and the moment when a population decided that decades of oppression had gone too far.
Just a short walk away, visitors can also see the Memorial of Rebirth (Memorialul Renașterii), a monument dedicated to those who lost their lives during the revolution. While its design has divided opinion among locals and visitors alike, it provides an important reminder of the human cost behind Romania’s transition from Communist rule to democracy.
Visiting the balcony is completely free, and there is no formal ticket or visitor centre. It is simply a place to stand, observe and understand a pivotal moment in European history.
For anyone interested in learning more about Bucharest beyond its architecture and cafés, Revolution Square is an essential stop.
The Palace of the Parliament may represent the ambition of Ceaușescu’s regime, but this balcony represents something far more significant – the moment when ordinary people challenged that power and changed the course of Romania’s future.
Transylvania
While Bucharest offers more than enough to fill a long weekend, no trip to Romania would feel complete without venturing into Transylvania.
Few regions in Europe have captured the imagination quite like this mountainous corner of central Romania. For many visitors, the very name conjures images of medieval castles, mist-covered forests, fortified towns and, of course, the enduring legend of Dracula. Yet while popular culture has helped make Transylvania famous, the reality is far richer and more fascinating than the myths alone would suggest.
Historically, Transylvania has occupied a unique position at the crossroads of Central and Eastern Europe. Over the centuries it has been shaped by Romanian, Hungarian, Saxon and Ottoman influences, leaving behind a remarkable legacy of castles, churches, fortified settlements and picturesque medieval towns.
Of course, it is impossible to talk about Transylvania without mentioning Dracula.
The character created by Irish author Bram Stoker in 1897 was inspired, at least in part, by Vlad III, better known as Vlad the Impaler, a 15th-century Wallachian ruler whose brutal reputation became the stuff of legend.
Although the historical Vlad had little direct connection to the vampire count that later appeared in literature, the association has become inseparable from Transylvania’s identity, drawing visitors from around the world eager to explore the landscapes and castles linked to the story.
For travellers based in Bucharest, one of the easiest ways to experience Transylvania is through an organised day tour. There are countless operators offering remarkably similar itineraries, most of which combine three of the region’s most famous attractions: Peleș Castle, the medieval city of Brașov, and Bran Castle, better known to many as Dracula’s Castle.
During our research, one option that stood out was a popular full-day excursion available through GetYourGuide – Bucharest: Day Trip to Peles Castle, Bran Castle & Brașov.
The tour departs from Bucharest and takes visitors deep into the heart of Transylvania, combining stunning scenery, fascinating history and some of Romania’s most iconic landmarks into a single day.
At the time of writing, prices start from £50.61 per adult and £46.33 for children aged between four and 17, making it a relatively affordable way to see a significant part of Romania beyond the capital. As with most tours, prices can fluctuate depending on the season, demand and availability.
The appeal of these excursions is obvious. Rather than worrying about train schedules, car hire or navigating unfamiliar roads through the Carpathian Mountains, everything is organised for you. Transport, guiding and logistics are all taken care of, allowing you to focus entirely on enjoying the experience.
The first stop on most tours into Transylvania will be Peles Castle.
Nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, Peleș Castle is located in the picturesque town of Sinaia, around 125 kilometres north of Bucharest.
The route itself is part of the experience, gradually leaving behind the busy streets of Bucharest and winding its way through increasingly dramatic scenery as the mountains begin to dominate the horizon.
Surrounded by dense forests and framed by towering peaks, the town has an elegance and charm that feels distinctly different from the capital.
And then, tucked amongst the trees, Peleș Castle comes into view.
Few buildings in Romania are as instantly impressive. With its fairy-tale towers, decorative timber-framed façades and spectacular mountain setting, Peleș looks as though it has been lifted straight from the pages of a storybook. It is the kind of place that immediately causes visitors to reach for their cameras.
Construction of the castle began in 1873 under King Carol I, Romania’s first king, who chose the area as the site of his summer residence. The result was a masterpiece of Neo-Renaissance architecture that remains one of the most beautiful castles in Europe. Unlike many of the medieval fortresses found elsewhere in Romania, Peleș was designed as a royal palace from the outset, intended to showcase wealth, sophistication and modernity.
Unfortunately, when we visited, Peleș Castle was closed as it was undergoing refurbishment work, meaning visitors were unable to access the attraction.
While it was disappointing to miss one of Romania’s most famous landmarks, our tour operator provided an excellent alternative in the form of Cantacuzino Castle in the mountain town of Bușteni.
Located around 10km north of Sinaia and approximately 15 minutes by road from Peleș Castle, Cantacuzino Castle sits against the dramatic backdrop of the Bucegi Mountains and offers some of the most spectacular views in the region.
Built between 1901 and 1911 for Prince Gheorghe Grigore Cantacuzino – one of the wealthiest and most influential figures in Romania at the time – the castle is a stunning example of Neo-Romanian architecture.
Although less internationally famous than Peleș, the castle is an attraction in its own right. The ornate stonework, elegant terraces and impressive mountain setting make it a photographer’s dream, while the interior features grand halls, stained glass windows and a fascinating collection of heraldic artwork connected to the Cantacuzino family.
Some visitors may also recognise the building from popular culture. In recent years, Cantacuzino Castle gained international attention after being used as a filming location for Netflix’s Wednesday, where its exterior was transformed into Nevermore Academy.
While it wasn’t the castle we had originally expected to visit, Cantacuzino Castle turned out to be a very pleasant surprise.
If Peleș Castle is one of Transylvania’s most beautiful castle, then Bran Castle is undoubtedly its most famous.
The drive from Cantacuzino Castle to Bran Castle takes around 45 minutes to an hour, winding through some of the most beautiful scenery in the country. The road passes through mountain valleys, traditional villages and dense forests, offering plenty of opportunities to admire the landscapes that have helped make Transylvania so legendary.
It is easy to see how stories and folklore became woven into this part of Romania. The dramatic peaks of the Carpathian Mountains loom in the distance, while thick woodland stretches across the hillsides. Even during daylight, there is something undeniably atmospheric about the region.
And then, perched high on a rocky outcrop above the surrounding countryside, Bran Castle finally comes into view.
Unlike the refined grandeur of Peleș, Bran Castle feels altogether more rugged and imposing. Its whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs and commanding position above the valley make it look exactly as many visitors imagine a medieval fortress should. It is one of those rare landmarks that manages to live up to the photographs.
Built in 1388 by the Saxons of Brașov, Bran Castle was originally constructed as a defensive fortress to protect a strategically important mountain pass between Transylvania and Wallachia. For centuries it served as both a military stronghold and customs post, helping to control trade moving through the region.
Over time, however, the castle’s role evolved. In the early twentieth century it became a royal residence, most notably associated with Queen Marie of Romania, who transformed it into a much-loved summer retreat. Many of the rooms visitors see today reflect this later period of the castle’s history.
Yet for most travellers, it is not the castle’s military or royal past that draws them here. It’s Dracula!
Bran Castle is known across the world as “Dracula’s Castle”, despite the fact that the connection between the fortress and the famous vampire is surprisingly tenuous.
The legend originates with Bram Stoker’s 1897 novel Dracula. Although the Irish author never visited Romania, the fictional description of Dracula’s castle bears a striking resemblance to Bran’s dramatic setting atop a rocky hill. Over time, the similarities proved irresistible, and Bran Castle gradually became associated with the Count in the public imagination.
Adding further intrigue is the figure who partly inspired Stoker’s creation: Vlad III of Wallachia, better known as Vlad the Impaler.
Vlad earned a fearsome reputation during the fifteenth century for his brutal methods of dealing with enemies, leading to stories that spread far beyond Romania’s borders. While there is no evidence that Vlad ever lived at Bran Castle, and historians generally agree that his connection to the fortress was minimal at best, the association between Vlad, Dracula and Bran Castle has become impossible to separate.
Today, that connection is embraced wholeheartedly.
Long before reaching the castle itself, visitors are greeted by countless stalls lining the surrounding streets and pathways, many of them packed with Dracula-themed souvenirs. Vampire figurines, gothic artwork, black capes, mugs, T-shirts and every imaginable variation of Dracula memorabilia compete for attention. While some may find it a little kitschy, it undeniably adds to the atmosphere and reflects the role the legend now plays in the region’s tourism industry.
The castle itself strikes a fascinating balance between history and myth. Visitors can wander through a maze of narrow staircases, hidden passageways, medieval rooms and towers while learning about both the genuine history of the fortress and its connection to the Dracula story.
What surprised me most was how intimate the interior felt. From the outside, Bran appears vast and imposing, but inside it is a labyrinth of smaller rooms, winding corridors and unexpected corners. Exploring it feels less like visiting a grand palace and more like uncovering the secrets of an ancient stronghold.
Outside, the views are every bit as impressive as the castle itself. Looking out across the forests, hills and distant mountains, it is easy to understand why this part of Romania has inspired so many stories over the centuries.
After exploring the legends and history of Bran Castle, our final stop of the day took us to Brașov, one of the most beautiful and atmospheric cities in Romania.
The drive from Bran Castle to Brașov takes around 30 minutes, passing through rolling countryside and small Transylvanian settlements before the city gradually appears against the backdrop of the Carpathian Mountains. By this point in the day, it felt like the perfect change of pace. Having spent the morning exploring castles and royal residences, we were now heading somewhere that offered the chance to simply wander, soak up the atmosphere and experience everyday life in Transylvania.
Founded by German Saxons in the 13th century, Brașov is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Romania. Its strategic location at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains made it an important trading centre for centuries, and much of that history remains visible today.
Unlike Bucharest, which often feels grand and sprawling, Brașov is wonderfully compact and easy to explore on foot. The city’s historic centre is a maze of cobbled streets, colourful buildings and hidden alleyways, all overlooked by the famous “BRAȘOV” sign perched high on Tampa Mountain above the city.
One of the great advantages of the organised day tours is that they build in free time to explore Brașov independently. Rather than following a guide from one attraction to the next, visitors are given the opportunity to discover the city at their own pace, making it easy to spend an hour or two simply enjoying the atmosphere.
Most tours drop visitors close to Piața Sfatului, or Council Square, the historic heart of Brașov and undoubtedly one of the most attractive public squares in Romania.
Surrounded by beautifully preserved Baroque and Renaissance buildings painted in shades of yellow, orange, blue and green, the square immediately feels welcoming. Outdoor cafés spill onto the pavements, locals and tourists mingle beneath the surrounding architecture, and the mountains rise dramatically beyond the rooftops. It is exactly the kind of place where you can happily spend an hour with a coffee and simply watch the world go by – which is exactly what we did!
At the centre of the square stands the former Council House, a distinctive building topped by a clock tower that has watched over the city for centuries. Around it are numerous restaurants, cafés and shops, making it an ideal place to take a break after a busy day of sightseeing.
Just a short walk away is one of Brașov’s most famous landmarks, the Black Church. Built between the 14th and 15th centuries, it is the largest Gothic church in Romania and owes its unusual name to damage caused by a major fire in 1689, which blackened much of its exterior stonework.
Those with a little more time can also wander through some of the surrounding streets, many of which feel wonderfully untouched by modern development. One of the most popular is Strada Sforii, or Rope Street, one of the narrowest streets in Europe, measuring little more than a metre wide in places.
What struck me most about Brașov was how different it felt from Bucharest. While the capital is energetic, bustling and often chaotic, Brașov has a slower, more relaxed pace. The medieval architecture, mountain scenery and pedestrian-friendly centre combine to create a city that feels almost tailor-made for wandering.
As the early evening drew to a close and it became time to return to Bucharest, I found myself wishing we had longer. While Brașov works perfectly as part of a day trip, it is also the kind of destination that deserves a visit in its own right.
Where to avoid
Like any major European capital, Bucharest has its areas that require a little more awareness from visitors.
The city is generally safe to explore, and we never felt uncomfortable during our time there, but there is one thing worth keeping in mind: petty crime, particularly pickpocketing, can be an issue in busy areas.
The usual advice applies – keep your belongings secure, avoid leaving phones or wallets easily accessible, and be a little more alert in crowded places such as public transport, busy streets and tourist hotspots.
One thing that caught our attention was that pickpocketing attempts can sometimes involve groups working together, including young children – something we witnessed happening albeit not to us.
In some cases, one person may try to distract you through conversation, asking questions or creating a moment of confusion, while another attempts to take a phone, wallet or other valuables. It can be easy to dismiss this as harmless behaviour, but it is worth being aware that these situations do happen.
That said, there is no need to be overly cautious or let it affect your enjoyment of the city. Taking the same basic precautions you would in any large European city – particularly when out after dark or in crowded areas – is usually more than enough to avoid problems.
However, if there is one attraction in Bucharest that I personally would not rush back to visit, it would be the Historical Village Museum (Muzeul Național al Satului “Dimitrie Gusti”).
Located in King Michael I Park (Parcul Regele Mihai I, formerly known as Herăstrău Park) in the northern part of Bucharest, close to the shores of Lake Herăstrău and not far from the famous Arcul de Triumf, the museum is an open-air collection of traditional Romanian houses, farms, churches and rural buildings brought together from different regions of the country.
The idea behind the museum is certainly interesting. Opened in 1936, it was created to preserve and showcase the traditional way of life found across Romania’s villages, allowing visitors to experience historic homes, workshops and wooden churches from different parts of the country without having to travel across the entire nation.
Entry costs 40 lei for adults (around £6.50), with reduced prices available for retirees and students. The museum covers a large outdoor area, with more than 200 traditional structures representing different regions and communities across Romania.
On paper, it sounds like exactly the kind of cultural attraction that should be a highlight of any visit. However, when we visited, we found the experience somewhat underwhelming.
Part of the challenge is that much of the museum’s appeal relies on already having a strong understanding of Romanian rural history and architecture. For locals, or visitors with a particular interest in traditional crafts and village life, there is undoubtedly a lot to appreciate. The buildings are authentic, the collection is extensive, and it offers an interesting insight into a way of life that has largely disappeared.
For foreign tourists, however, the experience can feel a little disconnected. Without detailed knowledge of the regions, traditions and significance behind each building, many of the exhibits begin to blur together. Unlike other open-air museums across Europe, where interactive displays and storytelling help bring history to life, the Village Museum felt more like a collection of buildings to look at rather than a story to discover.
Our visit was also made slightly more memorable by an amusing encounter with one of the local residents who clearly took her role as guardian of Romanian manners very seriously.
An elderly Romanian lady approached us and began speaking to us in Romanian. As we did not understand what she was saying, we politely smiled but did not respond. A few moments later, she returned and, this time in English, explained that she was disappointed we had not replied and had failed to say “good morning” to her!
While it was certainly unexpected, it was also a funny reminder that sometimes the most memorable moments while travelling are not always the ones you plan for.
Ultimately, the National Village Museum is not a bad attraction – it simply depends on what you are looking for. If you have a genuine interest in Romanian heritage, traditional architecture or rural history, it may well be worth a visit. However, if you have limited time in Bucharest and are looking for the city’s most impressive sights and experiences, there are other places I would prioritise first.
Great places to eat
One of the great pleasures of visiting Bucharest is discovering that the city’s food scene is far more exciting than many first-time visitors might expect.
While traditional Romanian dishes such as sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), mici (grilled minced meat rolls) and papanași (Romanian doughnuts served with sour cream and jam) are well worth seeking out, the capital also has a growing reputation for more refined dining experiences.
During our stay, one restaurant stood out above the rest: L’Atelier Relais & Chateaux, the elegant restaurant located within the Epoque Hotel where we stayed.
We actually experienced L’Atelier multiple times during our visit. Breakfast was included with our stay at Epoque Hotel, meaning we started each morning there with a relaxed meal before heading out to explore the city. However, after enjoying the setting and quality of the food so much, we decided to return one evening for dinner – and it proved to be one of the highlights of our time in Bucharest.
The restaurant itself has a wonderfully intimate feel and extremely quiet. Rather than being a large, formal dining room, L’Atelier offers a more understated sense of luxury, with an elegant design and a calm atmosphere that makes it feel like a hidden gem tucked away from the busy streets outside.
The menu focuses on contemporary cuisine inspired by Romanian ingredients and traditions, while incorporating modern techniques and international influences. The kitchen places a strong emphasis on seasonal produce and working with local suppliers, creating dishes that feel connected to Romania while still offering a refined dining experience.
The à la carte menu changes regularly, but diners can expect a range of beautifully presented dishes featuring carefully sourced ingredients, alongside seasonal tasting menus for those looking for a more complete culinary journey. The restaurant also offers an extensive wine selection designed to complement the food.
For breakfast, the experience was relaxed but high quality, with a selection of fresh pastries, breads, hot dishes, fruit and other options to start the day. It was the kind of breakfast that encouraged you to slow down rather than simply grab something quickly before sightseeing.
Dinner was where L’Atelier really came into its own. The presentation, flavours and attention to detail were all exceptional, and every course felt carefully considered rather than simply being about putting together expensive ingredients. The service was equally impressive – attentive, knowledgeable and professional without ever feeling overly formal.
It is worth noting that L’Atelier is not the cheapest place to eat in Bucharest. This is very much a special occasion restaurant rather than somewhere you would visit every night during a city break – especially if you are travelling on a tight budget.
However, for those looking to enjoy an excellent meal and experience one of the city’s more sophisticated dining options, it represents very good value for the quality on offer.
What I particularly liked was that despite its fine dining credentials, it never lost sight of its Romanian identity. The restaurant celebrates the country’s ingredients and culinary heritage rather than simply trying to replicate a Western European luxury dining experience.
For anyone staying at the Epoque Hotel, dining at L’Atelier is almost a must. But even if you are staying elsewhere in Bucharest, it is worth considering making the journey for an evening meal. It offers a chance to see another side of the city – one that is modern, creative and increasingly confident in its own culinary identity.
After days spent exploring Bucharest’s grand architecture, Communist history and busy streets, ending an evening with a beautifully prepared meal in such a welcoming setting was the perfect way to experience the city’s quieter, more refined side.
Useful links
Bucharest: Day Trip to Peles Castle, Bran Castle & Brașov
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